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Archive through April 18, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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tgallagher

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2007
Messages
79
displayname
Timothy S. Gallagher
Just what do you mean by "cast end" or "not cast end" 42" deck?
 
Timothy:

Here is an image of the early decks with the Cast Iron Ends...

55400.jpg


Here is an image of a later production deck. Note, the deck skin is Stamped Steel...

55401.jpg


Both decks have a Cast Iron Nose Piece.
 
Thanks roland,

I'll go check out what I have...


Which is better?
 
Ryan - You said something that really erks me. SUE! I wasn't and have never worried about the "sue" aspect of anything. It's the fact that some kid or wife (girlfriend) or neighbor could be hurt or even killed.
I notice that's your first remark, mines on saftey!


Tim - I've heard that the CI decks warp. I like mine for it's solid deflection when I run into something. I'm a wildman behind the wheel.
55404.gif


Notice the blades on those deck pics ...
 
Ken - I just gotta ask; do you create your own smileys or do you have a secret source. If you do your own, congrats - they're great! If they're from some other source, you 'done good' finding them. Thanks for the entertainment!
thumbsup.gif
 
Will the hydro rearend form anarrow frame 127 fit and work in a wideframe 129?

With the riseing price of gas I need to thin the cubs down to as few as possable and build one good machine out the ones I have here now.
 
Okay, so I have a 38" non-cast deck. I wondered about the 10+20+10 thing, but who am I to question the seller who claimed it was a 42". I thought maybe the 42" only cut 40" - like my 19" computer monitor actually measures less than 19". Can you Cadet gurus recommend any high lift blades for it?
 
Chip - You better start liking the no thrills stock blades, it's all you're going to get !
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Lonny -
dunno.gif


Lip - I use to make graphics for the forum but I found out it's easier now to go lookin fer'em.
55407.gif
 
Chip,
Years ago I put high lift blades on my 100, but it took about 4 hours digging through many boxes to find some close enough to fit and then I modified/balanced them to fit perfect.
55409.jpg

55410.jpg
 
Are any of this forums members going to the plow day this weekend at Climax, MI. I can't make it, but I have a chance to buy a snowthrower from one of the attenders. Would someone be attending would be passing through northern West Virginia (Morgantown to be exact) and have room for a snowthrower on the return trip?
 
Hey guys,

Some of you may recall a few weeks my 149 lost pressure in the hydro unit.

After trouble-shooting I found the rotor-pin assembly had broke apart in the pump assembly. I finally got around to replacing the pin and rotor, and put the pump back together, as well as installed a u-joint on the drive-shaft.

The u-joint works great, just no pressure yet. I checked all the relief and check valves and all are functioning.

The shaft is spinning, as I can see it in the rear of the unit. No leaks as far as I can see.

Is there something I need to do to prime it? I thought it should automatically do this since is is based on suction.

Fluid level is also good. I cannot seem to figure this thing out.

Mitch
 
Oops, sorry for the forum faux pas. Didn't realize there was a 'hauler' section.
 
Mitchell - That's curious ... sounds like it could be a fluid pick up issue or still something in the pump that's broke BUT if you had it apart ... ?
I've also known of oil filters (on car engines) being collasped and not letting oil pressure show. I'd go into the lines and filter next to trouble shoot it.
Keep us posted as this is a new one !
 
No it was the fact the automotive oil filter has no check valve to prevent the fluid from back draining, causing the hydro to be starved when you fire it up. Kinda like the turbos that Ford had on cars, they ate up bearings when you did an oil change without priming the turbo.
Personally I've been running an auto filter on my 127 since '96 , the same one. BUT do as I SAY , NOT as I DO !!
jawdrop.gif
 
Ken & Kraig
Thanks.
These apepar to come in sets. The lower half was mated to upper part that was more a disc than the original. The lower had a ridge and slipped inside the upper part. Seems like the combination was a little over a 1/4" shorter than the original mounts and caused the clutch/drive plate to be at a slight angle to each other. Mounts looked beefier than the original ones. I have always used old stype by saving good ones from parted tractors.
Thanks
 
Mitch, are you sure you have the charge pump back on correctly and not 180* off? I have read on here how if that is done, it pushes back in the pick up tube rather than sucking.
 

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