Archive through April 18, 2005

[tcbusch]

Roger,
Using this picture explain where you voltages are again. Put your negative lead of your meter on the negative side of the battery.
For example, You should get 12 volts at the Lt green BAT terminal on the switch and not at IGN or ST with the switch off.

 

[cfischer]

Bryan,

There is probably a good reason behind it. Actually, I learn a lot reading through all the posts. They always say "if it aint broke then don't fix it" so I figure they probably feel they should just leave it the way it is. Its not a big deal.

So I have a ton of stuff I want to do to my 1250, from level the deck to doing a good cleaning of the stearing shaft and changing the hydro fluid. Not to mention the rag joint and plastic fan, as well as a battery hold down and the belt tensioner is all screwed up, so both those things need attention to. Do you think the service manual would be worth the 28 bucks or so for it? Is the parts catalog worth the 36?

And I did read through the FAQ, but I don't know if it really explained in great detail the process of leveling the deck. The advice was good. I should find a level surface, check the air pressure in the tires, then start to take measurements from the cutting blades and try to adjust from there right? Should I expect that my 44A deck is probably racked? Also, the wheels on the back, where should they be set?

Thanks,
Chuck F

 

[wheinsohn]

Chuck F.,
Since it sounds like this is your initial setup on this deck, I would take the rear gauge wheels off completely. Then level the deck front to rear and side to side. Then set it to the height of cut you want it at. Then put the gauge wheels back on. I usually set them so that they are 1/4-1/2" off the floor.

 

[sblunier]

Chuck,

If your 44A is like every other one I have seen, it is probably cracked under the rear QA hanger mounting points (where the 3 bolts attach them to the skin) and just in front of the weld that holds the right rear gauge wheel on. There is also a 50%-50% chance that it is cracked vertically along the front lip.

To do this job good and right...and make a deck tune up "hold" you will need to fix all of these areas.

1) Remove the QA hangers. Get some 1/8" x 3" flat stock, place it over the hanger locations (after you have beat them flat where the bolts have tried to pull out of the skin), and weld the whole strip (20 some inches) across the back of the deck with short weld seams...this will make the rear hangers rock solid and stop future abuse. re-drill and re-attach the QA hangers.

2) grind out and reapir any cracks at the right rear gauge wheel.....reinforce as necessary.

3) Fix any other flaws in the metal......bang out the front lip of the air tunnel if it is dented in, etc.

4) with the deck on it's back, install new blades (GATOR Blades are the prefered blade of choice for 44" and 50" decks IMHO) and start checking them tip-to-tip for level cutting, use a long straight edge to make sure all of the blades are in the same plane. If any of the spindles are tweaked, whack the deck skin around the spindle with a BFH as needed to correct.

5) Flip the deck back over and set the 2 outer blades on 2x4 blocks, on edge (along the long axis of the tractor). This should have all of the blades in a plane 3-1/2" off of the floor and parallel to it. Measure the distance from the gauge wheels to the floor (in the same holes)...it should be the same...if it's not, persuade them back into shape as necessary....BFH, etc. BUT NOT WITH THE DECK ON THE 2x4's...you'll bend the blades.

6) Install a front gauge wheel kit if you so desire. Weld the brackets on so that with the gauge rear gauge wheels are in the bottom holes and the front "ball wheels" are in the bottom holes they are the same distance off of the ground when the deck is positioned as in step 5

7) Mount deck, with tractor on level surface, tire air checked...etc. as I describe in the FAQ. Rough level fore/aft using the front eye bolts. You mak run out of adjustment in the eyes before you get the front blade tips up far enough to be level.... in that case remove the subframe and bend the "pickle fork" looking tail on the front eye bolt carriage (the fork that slips over the tractor's lift rockshaft) up in the air about an inch...use a torch... and then repeat the process. level front blade tips to within 0" to -1/4" of the rear blade tips.

8) Level side to side using adjustable deck hangers (see sponsers or your local dealer). Level side - side to within 1/4". Recheck fore-aft and then tighten everything down.

9) Roughly set desired cutting height at blade tip. Set gauge wheels in holes so that they are 1/2"-3/4" off of the ground, fine tune deck final deck height to get the 1/2"-3/4" measurment "dialed in". Set and lock the depth stop cam in the tractor's lift.

10) Go mow your yard and marvel at the pool table like appearance.

BTW, JD makes a neat little $7 tool that measures blade tip height with a level arm and calibrated scale...saves a lot of trouble and makes rechecks quick and easy.

Now if my 1st FAQ entry wasn't enough, this should fill in the blanks.

My personal favorite deck is a well tuned 44" running Gators and front gauge wheels..........and I just mowed my lawn for the second time this season last night (782 w/44").....and no bull s***, it does look like a pool table/putting green.

 

[sblunier]

Man, my fingers are tired......

Bryan, if that post merits, please add it to the end of my previous FAQ entry so I don't ever have to type all that again

 

[sblunier]

Pictures:

Adjustable Hangers:

JD Height Gauge

Tuning a 44" deck

Finished "tuned" deck

 

[F12Mahon]

Steve B,
Do you have a greasless tensioner bolt on your deck or do you take the cover off to grease it? I had trouble with mine rusting so I cross drilled and drilled and tapped the hex head for a 1/4-28 small grease zerk. I think I read somewhere the new bolts are ready made for greasing.

 

[sblunier]

There is no fitting on mine, I just cleaned the bore and pivot bolt up really well on the wire wheel and agve it a heavy coat of anti-seize before reassembly.

I keep water as far away from my decks as possible, and usually pull the belt cover at the begining of every season for a good cleaning and check-up.

 

[kupdike]

SB......The general consensus (sp?) is that using water to clean a deck promotes rust, which promotes deck rot, which promotes deck failure, which promotes deck replacement sales at C&G, which promotes (highly unlikely though....) a raise for the Apostle.

THANK GOODNESS...CCC has the insight to add the "Deck Wash" feature to thier mower decks!!!!!

I knew this story had a happy ending!!!

 

[digger]

You know! You can buy deck washing kits from MTD,

Sorry about the all caps, I was to lazy to retype the info.
SIMPLY HOOK YOUR GARDEN HOSE TO THE COUPLER, TURN ON THE WATER, SIT ON SEAT, START THE TRACTOR AND RUN THE MOWER-IT CLEANS ITSELF! THE WATER AND THE BLADES DO THE WORK! DECKS WITH MORE THAN 2 BLADES REQUIRE 2 ATTACHMENTS ONE FOR EACH SIDE OF MOWER.

 

[digger]

Speaking of mowing the lawn!

 

[bnyquist]

Steve........ Great job on the deck and the description of the task. I too like the 44 for around the house work. With 5 acres to mow the 50 gets the majority of the cutting.

What is the bar on the discharge for? (Can't remember if mine has this....)

 

[sblunier]

Ken,

I'm already working on getting you some adjustable leveling link / gauge wheel kit / Gator Blade sales here........what more do you want??????

 

[sblunier]

MTD added that bar as a stiffner/handle on the late model 44/50C decks......I add them to the decks I overhaul to keep the right front gauge wheel supported.

 

[bmcmeen]

SB -

It'll get added sometime this week. Thanks for all the typing

 

[cfischer]

Hey Steve, I guess that will do. Just kidding, that was very thurough. I'll have to check our sponsors for those front wheel guage wheel kit.

Now, can you do one of those awesome write ups with photos on the mule (belt tensioner) assembly? Mine is out of whack, and I don't have a nice diagram of it. I'm sure I need to tackle that before I tackle the deck.

Chuck

 

[wcompton]

Steve-
I took the shortcut, I picked up a 44GT deck from CC Specialties . . . .

is there a differnce between a 44C and a 44GT deck? I see them both listed as differnt models, but they seem to take all the same part #'s.

 

[rchristensen]

I might be a little impartial but I like my 50c (Cadillac) deck with the front swivel casters.

Just build a couple of brackets like this, and add some Harbor freight swivel casters.

You might need to build one of these hoists too.

Then to finish the job add a 782 and a cab.

 

[jhannigan]

Hi,
I'm new to this list and have a problem I am not sure what to do with just yet. I've got a 682 that pushes out hydro fluid through one of the caps on the top of the hydrostat unit. There are 2 hex caps on the top each with a pin hole - a breather I guess. When running the one on the left just pumps out the fluid. The tractor is new to me and I thought this may be an overflow of some sort and someone overfilled the unit but no luck in fact the level is already low. The unit other wise works (can drive around but not for long!).
My current guess is that there is a clog/constriction somewhere and the pressure is backing up. I haven't removed the filter or rear cover or return tube yet. Any suggestions? is there a 'typical' place where there might be a clog?

Thanks,
-Jim

 

[sblunier]

James,

No clogs....those are check valves and one of yours is leaking. Replace replace the check valve and all will be well......see sponser list above for new and used check valves (self unloading type)

Order a filter and some new HyTran while you are at it, your 682 will love you for it