• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through April 17, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Tristan mentioned a, "5 lug front wheel hub conversion". Can anyone explain that to me? Pics or FAQ?
 
OK, CCO 4740 still just coughing when started for several seconds. New Coil, Condenser (attached to neg side of coil) New gas w/ stabil in it. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Mark
 
MARK- Is your float adjusted right? If the tab on the float that controls the needle is too far bent down it wont let enough gas into the carb.

What kind of plug are you running in your Original? If its a new style Champion spark plug it most likely could be junk. Try replacing with a Autolite 216. Just my .02
 
Does no one look at the FAQ's for anything?
http://cubfaq.com/supersteer.html

It kinda defeats the purpose for everyone that does all the time and effort into the FAQ's when no one looks at them anyway.
bash.gif
 
Robert Klein

I did a four lug conversion on my 129 loader. I had welded on hubs rated at 2000 lbs on the front of my loader.These are used to make utility trailers and are grease able.

224220.jpg


224221.jpg


And I went with 4ply tires to help carry the weight. Seems to work great so far.
old.gif
 
Charlie, First place I look for info is the FAQ. But honestly, when it comes to fitting a trailer hub to a CC axle, the topic is not covered in any depth to be useful. I, and I'm sure otrhers would like to know if axle stubs were used, how the alignment was maintained during welding, etc. Just saying....


This pic shows a 128(?) with hubs.
224224.jpg
 
Robert K.
Then the Search function is the next step.
Click the search button at the top or bottom of every page and fill in the blanks EXACTLY as I have in the pic below.
224226.jpg


And so you don't have to waste your time looking through 30 listings found, here's a direct link to show exactly how it's done.
CLICK HERE

Is that better for you?
If there's anything else you want me to search for, feel free to email me and I'll get right one it.
 
On another note.
Every once and a while I'll do a search from some obscure anything and it's just amazing and the stuff you can find that you either forgot about or never knew just scrolling through the pages in the vault.
It's kinda fun to look back years ago and some of the post and see how things have progressed and changed and the tons of just plain cool stuff.
I know it takes time to do that and a lot of you don't have the time, but you really should give it a shot one day.
There's just so much cool stuff that's gotten buried in the archives, it would pay all of us to snoop around once and a while just to get a laugh and learn something along the way.
thumbsup_old.gif
 
AS always Charlie has the answer....just not mine. The pic I attached shows a stock (I believe 3/4") spindle with a 5 bolt trailer hub. I was sort of hoping that someone on this amazing forum had done this or just knew how this was done. Specifically, how they went from straight axle rod to tapered bearings which requires a nut on the axle to load the tapers properly.
 
I have to agree with Robert K. about the "Super Steer" FAQ, it raised more questions than it answered for me. A FAQ, to be helpful, has to communicate more than "look what I did;" it needs to tell how it was done. Pictures need text to explain them.

Regarding the "Super Steer" FAQ specifically, pictures of the axle hubs were displayed prominently, but no mention was made of their source. A person pondering the upgrade is left to wonder. The heim joints are pictured, as well as an entirely different type of tie rod. Again, no source or dimensions are given. Not even the source of the tires is mentioned.

On the other hand, the information that is shared is fairly accurate even though it doesn't pretend to be. The source of the "super steer" axle is correct, although it would have helped a newbie like myself to show a picture of a "cyclops" tractor. When I researched axles for different models in Parts Lookup I incorrectly identified several possible candidates. Again, I was left to wonder, "where can I get a part like theirs?" (It would have helped me tremendously to know that one of this site's sponsors, R. F. Holtz & Son, stock used axles for the purpose of making the upgrade. They would have made a sale had I known at the time .)

To sum up, all FAQs are not equal. The information required to replace your voltage regulator is not the same information needed to replace your Kohler with a Honda motor. There either needs to be a step-by-step guide with pictures and at least informal source information (like "from one of our sponsors"), or there needs to be a link to information in greater detail for those that are interested to learn, not just WHAT was done, but HOW it was done.

For instance, why couldn't the Northern Tool link by added to the FAQ? It would have helped both Robert K. and myself.

Just my two cents worth.
baldguy.gif


(This is a forum where people can speak what's on their minds, right?)
happy.gif
 
online this morning. Don't have anything to do with it, just thought you guys might like to see it. Home made cub lawn roller.
224230.jpg

224231.jpg
 
Jeremiah C and Robert K.

I'm sorry that the information that's been posted on the forum over the years is so inadequate for you.

Tellya what, you guys put your heads together and do a step by step of anything you want, send it to me and I'll be more than happy to add it to the FAQ's.

As far as what the sponsors have or don't have, I would think that an email or phone call to each one would be in order asking "Just what all do you have for sale" just for future reference.

Having the information at hand and available for you to find is one thing, but being condemned for not have it in order and with easy access so guys don't have to waste their time looking is another, and to be quite honest!

We're not here to spoon feed and hold people's hands, it's here to help YOU find an answer to a question, or at least point you in the right direction, so you can find it on your own.

Why is it that SO MANY have done SO MUCH for everyone over the years and it's NEVER good enough for some? I wish someone would explain that to me.

It's not been that long ago in the scheme of things that I asked my first question and didn't get the answer I was looking for, but I and many others took it upon ourselves to find the answer or answers. THEN when someone else had that same problem, we could help them along.

I know my post will greatly detour posting for a while because it's NOT what you wanted to hear, LOL
But you know what, It's called put up or shut up, nothin more, nothing less.

And since the information is not to your liking and inadequate, get your little finger to banging keys and start up a new FAQ and then the rest of us can go there and marvel at the great jobs that was done by YOU.
Then I'll hit the great DELETE all this crap that's in our FAQ's and link to yours.
thumbsup_old.gif


Oh yea, here's what Dan Hoefler started out with when he built his 4WD. I don't think anyone gave him a parts list or step by step on how to do it, LOL
224236.jpg

224237.jpg
 
Charlie, Unruffle your feathers. This wasn't meant as an attack on you or on the HUGE amount of good work you and others have put into this site.

Because a picture exists of tapered bearing 5-bolt hubs on stock CC spindles, AND because I could not find it on either the FAQ or via the search engine, I am asking the collective CC Forum for some help. That's all....just some help.

If I cannot find the info here, you can be sure I will forge ahead, fire up my lathe and welder and figure it out myself, documenting what I did what parts I used and how I did it, which I will in turn ask you to post here so that someone in the future will be able to find the information without having to reinvent the wheel.

Thanks again for all you've done for this GREAT SITE. I appreciate it.}}
 
Steve B

Those Vredel whatever tires on your QL.
Do you love them or do they have any issues?

Thinking of them for my 169, think they'll look awesome & hoping they'll minimize understeer when plowing snow with my blade.
 
That is one nice 100 4x4. I think that is the one I've seen before in some plowday or show pics. Dan has more mechanical know-how in his little finger than I ever hope to have.

Post some more pics Charlie...I know why you posted to begin with but it is, as Don says, "eye candy". I bet that 100 can bury a bottom plow without weights.

I think the FAQs are just fine BTW. Some FAQs may stimulate thinking a little more than others but that's not going to hurt anyone. It makes me feel good to be able to fill in any missing pieces.
 
Still thinking about the Logger Cub... and trying to decide on the next addition to the shed
1AA_dance2.gif
and have some questions. I know models and hyd/gd create quite a debate so hopefully you guys will have an open mind here.

First thing, I am thinking of doing a lot of diy to this to mount a hoist on the back, and bumper/counterweight out front. Trying to do this both as solid and easily as possible I am thinking of running some rectangular tubing along each frame, extending out the front for my bumper/counterweight, and out the back to mount the hoist and hitch. I could just attach front and back to frame but I think one solid piece would be a lot stronger and easier for me to deal with. This would require a straight frame [NF] to do easily. Besides the pedal (I think I could mod), is there any other obstruction on the NF tractors that would prevent me from doing this? I do not have a NF for comparison. If a later model NF with fenders, I will be modding the fenders anyhow for larger tires. Or I am thinking maybe even no fenders like some of the old NF's are.

So if that would work [NF] I have a few more q's to narrow my selections down. I dont need to worry about any attachments/implements so dont need QA or anything like that. I could even remove things like lift arms, fenders, and maybe pass some savings on to someone here. I am wondering if HP makes any difference. For pulling a load traction seems king, My 10HP 1000 can pull a couple thousand pounds easily at part throttle, would it be safe to say a 7HP or 8HP could pull logs just as well?

Next would be the great hyd/gd debate. I like my 1000 I can just put it in 1st gear and not mess with it going through the woods and up the hill back to the truck. But I worry about stopping on hills, the brakes dont work good I usually have to shut it off and then still worry. Also if I went with even bigger tires (that would increase my sped), maybe a hydro would have better low speed control. I am leaning towards GD but my clutch starting to slip on my 1000 has me thinking back about hyd...

I like the looks of the pre-Z tractors the best, so I am thinking 70/100/ and the 1x2/3 tractors primarily. There are a few of them around me withing a few hours on craigslist I am just having trouble deciding.Any advice? HP? GD/HYD?

Or there is a really nice 72 close by, its kind of an odd ball isnt it? I dont know how they came stock but its got the Z of the newer ones but the back end is fenderless with a metal pan seat like the old ones. I like the more 'tractor-ish' looks of the fenderless ones with the metal pan seat. I do like that tractor but I worry about it only being 7HP...
 
Just a thought for front weight ! I`am thinking you could windshield washer fluid to the front tires for weight , I don`t know why that would not work. Just have another set of wheels around to change to when front weight is required.

My 129 loader was easy to add the spindles , we just cut the old spindle off flush and drilled through for the back so we could add some weld there and the used a tig to weld fast the spindle and made up a gusset to make that area stronger.WE also added the other pieces shown with cut outs for the grease fitting and I now have a much stronger than stock weight carrying . The four ply tires I think have about 30 psi in them and that seems to be about right for air.

Kraig
I have your lift arm off and I`am looking for a cardboard tube to put the lift arm in to mail it to you.I don`t know what else I could use to put a shipping label on that would last the trip.As soon as I find a way to wrap the lift arm I will send it on.

off to the Cub Shed and finish cleaning the carb on my 62 Original and finish putting the breather on my 147 also. Cool and windy here today I don`t know what happened to spring this year ! later Don T
1a_scratchhead.gif
 
Tristan, As far as your Logger Cub and the great GD versus Hydro argument here's my two cents for the hydro; first, unlike the GD where you vary the throttle for finetuning your speed, the hydro runs at a constant more efficient fixed high speed. It take's some getting used to but is ultimately better for the engine. Second, the hydro has an infinite speed control (within reason) which allows you to better select your speed to the condition. third, the hydro allows you to soft start/launch without wearing out your drivetrain versus slipping/feathering your clutch. Fourth, the obvious braking of a hydraulic transaxle; when the pump stops, so do you (not to say you shouldn't have brakes!).

As for taller tires, unless you absolutely NEED more graound clearance, the traction of a tall versus stock sized tire will be the same.

As for your fore/aft side rail reinforcements, I think that's a brilliant idea; first because it stiffens the frame, especially useful when traveling over uneven ground. I would even go so far as to box the NF interior to beef up it's rigidity (old hotrode trick!). The second benefit would be to have dual sockets on which to slide extra accessories such as an electric winch, weights, push bumper, etc. All would be useful in the woods. Good luck and share pics. It sounds like a wonderful application of CUB technology!

Just my $.02! Hope it helps.
 
Robert Klein

Log hauling trailers are simple to build.There are a few on this site you should see. If you keep the but from digging in i`am sure a cub could drag a big log with no problems.http://www.qualipro.ca/skidder.htm
There are some good ideas here to look at.
1a_scratchhead.gif
 

Latest posts

Back
Top