Just in case anyone misses that white stuff, come on up. It's coming down up my way tonight!
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Archive through April 15, 2011
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Dennis, thanks for all the insight. As far as hill, trail, and wetness conditions well as you can figure they are quite variable. If your ever in the NE Ohio area stop in and check it out. Hard to describe how steep the hill is and its not very apparent in pictures either. I'll attach a pic, but hard to tell. The truck is parked in the field about as far as it can go, abotu 10 more yards and it starts going down and the woods I aften get wood out of is at the bottom, part of it shown in the background of the pic. There are plenty of hills to steep, and other spots I can get in and out without climbing any hills. Its over 200 acres and probably half wooded. Wetness, well right now in the woods is muddy mess, on the level my 1000 with the 25" Gators was sinking in 3-4" in some of the mud holes and pulling through just great. The main hillside is a field and not to muddy but even in mid summer the grass makes the drive slick. Actually right now is about the easiest time to pull up the hill.
The gators have done well (mine are 25x10x12) and are available in lots of height width combos up to 28" tall and widths commonly 10 or 12. Or I can go with ags, but more limited in sizes. The size I picked was just an easy way to gain a little bit of hieght and width and still use my existing rims from my 23x8.5x12 tires. If I was going to go duals I was thinking about skinnier.
Yeah I need weight on the trailers hitch, one reason using an old boat trailer appealed to me if I go the DIY route, looking at mine the axles is very near the back and would be easy to shift it all the way if I wanted too.
4WD atv would be better, but besides that I like cubs I also dont want to invest a ton into this, as I burn wood to save money. If I come across a good deal on one I would get it, but thats for a different conversation. Ideally though instead of 4wd atv I'd have one of the 4wd articulated cubs but I dont have that much fab skills!
I would not be pulling out 4' wide trees with it thats for sure. Most of the larger trees I cut are up to 20", most in the 14-16" range. The woods was logged in the 80's I think it was so no huge old grwoth except some of the old fence rows and the occasional monster. But there are lots of standing dead black locust and windfallen cherry often smaller than those and anything dead and or down I take first.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Friday, April 15, 2011 - 01:06 pm:
TRISTAN - On a dedicated logging tractor I think taller and wider lugged tires would be great, just not duals. I don't think you want to go over 26-27 inches tall, and 10-12 inches wide. Something like the ATV tires your running now would be fine. Not sure I'd even bother putting taller tires on the frt. And if you could get steering brakes on the drive wheels some way that would be better still.
A rolling load in a cart will be easier to pull than a dragging load, but any store-bought dump cart will have the axle centered so going uphill would pull weight off the hitch. You need something that puts weight ON the hitch. I know Northern sells ATV carts, but they're not much more than normal carts with balloon tires. You need a cart with the wheels almost all the way to the back of the box.
If I had a better idea of how steep the hills were, how wide the trails, and how wet or slick the ground I could give better answers.
When it comes to "skidding logs" My Buddy had to fire up his 125 HP farm tractor a year or so ago to pick up the frt end of a four foot diameter OAK tree trunk that was about 25 ft long that he dropped onto a hillside. He had to chain the tree to the 3-point lift arms so he could raise it so he could pull it.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<-last summer
The gators have done well (mine are 25x10x12) and are available in lots of height width combos up to 28" tall and widths commonly 10 or 12. Or I can go with ags, but more limited in sizes. The size I picked was just an easy way to gain a little bit of hieght and width and still use my existing rims from my 23x8.5x12 tires. If I was going to go duals I was thinking about skinnier.
Yeah I need weight on the trailers hitch, one reason using an old boat trailer appealed to me if I go the DIY route, looking at mine the axles is very near the back and would be easy to shift it all the way if I wanted too.
4WD atv would be better, but besides that I like cubs I also dont want to invest a ton into this, as I burn wood to save money. If I come across a good deal on one I would get it, but thats for a different conversation. Ideally though instead of 4wd atv I'd have one of the 4wd articulated cubs but I dont have that much fab skills!
I would not be pulling out 4' wide trees with it thats for sure. Most of the larger trees I cut are up to 20", most in the 14-16" range. The woods was logged in the 80's I think it was so no huge old grwoth except some of the old fence rows and the occasional monster. But there are lots of standing dead black locust and windfallen cherry often smaller than those and anything dead and or down I take first.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Friday, April 15, 2011 - 01:06 pm:
TRISTAN - On a dedicated logging tractor I think taller and wider lugged tires would be great, just not duals. I don't think you want to go over 26-27 inches tall, and 10-12 inches wide. Something like the ATV tires your running now would be fine. Not sure I'd even bother putting taller tires on the frt. And if you could get steering brakes on the drive wheels some way that would be better still.
A rolling load in a cart will be easier to pull than a dragging load, but any store-bought dump cart will have the axle centered so going uphill would pull weight off the hitch. You need something that puts weight ON the hitch. I know Northern sells ATV carts, but they're not much more than normal carts with balloon tires. You need a cart with the wheels almost all the way to the back of the box.
If I had a better idea of how steep the hills were, how wide the trails, and how wet or slick the ground I could give better answers.
When it comes to "skidding logs" My Buddy had to fire up his 125 HP farm tractor a year or so ago to pick up the frt end of a four foot diameter OAK tree trunk that was about 25 ft long that he dropped onto a hillside. He had to chain the tree to the 3-point lift arms so he could raise it so he could pull it.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
BRANDON - "Break-away weight" is the lifting force the loader generates with the bucket down on the ground. Due to the geometry of the loader it lifts more weight when lowered than it does when the arms & bucket are raised.
TRISTAN - You mention a 28" tall tire, that might be the right size to get. You'd have to space your fenders up a couple inches but that shouldn't be too hard to accomplish.
I really think a wider tire like your ATV tires would grip better than dualed up ag lugs. In really muddy conditions duals will pack up with mud between the tires, and the smaller lugs would pack up with mud. Your ATV tires are actually "mini Cane & Rice tires", if your digging your way thru 3-4 inches of mud they're wrking good for you.
The only concern I have about a cart/trailer with the axle set back farther is the turning clearance around trees, etc gets much longer, but that might not be a big issue, but the added weight transfer to your drive wheels would REALLY help. If you could get talled & wider tires on the boat trailer it might work really good!
TRISTAN - You mention a 28" tall tire, that might be the right size to get. You'd have to space your fenders up a couple inches but that shouldn't be too hard to accomplish.
I really think a wider tire like your ATV tires would grip better than dualed up ag lugs. In really muddy conditions duals will pack up with mud between the tires, and the smaller lugs would pack up with mud. Your ATV tires are actually "mini Cane & Rice tires", if your digging your way thru 3-4 inches of mud they're wrking good for you.
The only concern I have about a cart/trailer with the axle set back farther is the turning clearance around trees, etc gets much longer, but that might not be a big issue, but the added weight transfer to your drive wheels would REALLY help. If you could get talled & wider tires on the boat trailer it might work really good!
Tristan,
Keep in mind that a taller tire will also change the final gear ratio and give you slightly less pulling power.
As far as duals go, unless you are AlWAYS on even ground so all 4 drive wheels are ALWAYS in contact with the ground (unlikely in the woods) and caring equal weight, I would stay with a single wheel, specially if you want more weight on the rear end for traction. With duals, if you get in a position where the weight is all on the outside wheel and the inside wheel is off the ground, you will probably snap/break an axle, right at the wheel flange, specially with the additional weight on the rear end of the tractor. A single, narrow, wheel/tire will go down thru the mud/snow to get a bite, where duals are more likely to "float" on top of it and pack full of mud.
Keep in mind that a taller tire will also change the final gear ratio and give you slightly less pulling power.
As far as duals go, unless you are AlWAYS on even ground so all 4 drive wheels are ALWAYS in contact with the ground (unlikely in the woods) and caring equal weight, I would stay with a single wheel, specially if you want more weight on the rear end for traction. With duals, if you get in a position where the weight is all on the outside wheel and the inside wheel is off the ground, you will probably snap/break an axle, right at the wheel flange, specially with the additional weight on the rear end of the tractor. A single, narrow, wheel/tire will go down thru the mud/snow to get a bite, where duals are more likely to "float" on top of it and pack full of mud.
PAUL B. - I thought about the larger dia. tires increasing ground speed in every gear. It would help if Tristan was using a Hydro but even with a GD and 28 inch dia tires a 2.3 MPH 1st gear only becomes 2.8 MPH so He may have to drop a gear from what he's used to running but should be able to still pull well. I forget what a QL has for a 2nd gear, think it's 3.5 MPH, so it would become 4-1/4 MPH.
It'd be more stress on the whole rearend but with just 10 HP on tap I don't think there'd be any harm done. The clutch would probably be the weakest ling. The bad thing is I think a 1000 is an internal brake rearend so he'd suffer a reduction in braking force as well. On steep hills THAT could be a problem.
It'd be more stress on the whole rearend but with just 10 HP on tap I don't think there'd be any harm done. The clutch would probably be the weakest ling. The bad thing is I think a 1000 is an internal brake rearend so he'd suffer a reduction in braking force as well. On steep hills THAT could be a problem.
This is my mule drive I use for my tiller. Thinking about making a front weight bracket for it from angle iron. Here is a rough sketch of my concept. Probably put about 50 or so pounds on it.
Does anyone think I'm putting too much of a strain on anything?
Does anyone think I'm putting too much of a strain on anything?
jbaker
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Norm I dont think you will cause strain on any thing, But why do you want weight on the front when tilling?
Also do you have problems with belt slippage when tilling with that drive?
On mine I have a fixed position and and adjustable position pully.
see my photo the left side I put a 3/8 bolt thru it
Also do you have problems with belt slippage when tilling with that drive?
On mine I have a fixed position and and adjustable position pully.
see my photo the left side I put a 3/8 bolt thru it
Norm,
My plowing weight bracket is made from an old mule drive and it works great even with 120lbs of cast iron.
Your bracket looks pretty low.
My weights mount even with the top edge of teh mule drive and I would not want them any lower.
I would skip on the weights for tilling, the weight is not really needed and having to deal with heavy weights and a 50' belt sound like no fun.
My plowing weight bracket is made from an old mule drive and it works great even with 120lbs of cast iron.
Your bracket looks pretty low.
My weights mount even with the top edge of teh mule drive and I would not want them any lower.
I would skip on the weights for tilling, the weight is not really needed and having to deal with heavy weights and a 50' belt sound like no fun.
jbaker
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Norm I use narrow pulling style tires on the 149/tiller set up I run. It feels more tractorish and I have no problem turning either. as for the weights like Rick B said if you throw a belt or need to adjust it you may have to deal with the weights as a PITA
But...weights may look cool on it..... But with the extra weight comes gas usage......ouch
But...weights may look cool on it..... But with the extra weight comes gas usage......ouch
i just installed a new voltage regulator in my 129 and when i start it up it shows full discharge with a flicker every now and then to no charge. could this be a bad battery it is almost dead but starts with the charger.
thanks
thanks
ok Bob, I slipped out a got a few more pics. Pulley is approx 3 1/2" od. It came with a belt, but it looks like the larger size belts like used on the 82 series I think. Also, after looking at some pictures of other members generators, I see the toggle switch is broke off.
