Well I got the engine apart the only thing that has any kind of excess movement is the rod on the crank, the rod has side to side movement on the crank, i am sure this should not be normal, it's between 32nd and 64th. cylinder walls are nice and smooth, going to have a machine shop check all clearences and tell me what sizes i need for a rebuild kit.
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Archive through April 15, 2010
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Lucas, here's an exploded view from the Cub Cadet Parts Lookup. The most likely parts you'll need to replace are the two brake linings item # 1, and the O-Ring, item # 4. Though I've never had one apart so I could be wrong.
Thanks,Kraig .
Eric, I just looked in my Kohler manual and can't find a rod to crank side clearance,but what you found does not sound excessive,especially for an unrebuilt engine. All engines must have some,locomotive engines I used to work on had 1/16" or more even when new. When you reassemble an engine,always check the rod to see if it moves freely from side to side,if none, you have a problem,such as the cap on backwards.
Are the anti rattle springs on the clutch
absolutly neccearey what hapens with out them
absolutly neccearey what hapens with out them
Lucas, if you are referring to the anti rattle springs for the PTO clutch, it'll run just fine without them.
No the drive system clutch
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Eric-
The rod must have side-to-side play on the crankshaft, or the engine would lock up when it gets warm. The aluminum rod expands faster than the steel crank when it gets hot, so it needs room to expand.
The rod must have side-to-side play on the crankshaft, or the engine would lock up when it gets warm. The aluminum rod expands faster than the steel crank when it gets hot, so it needs room to expand.
Lucas, in that case, good question. I do not know if they are needed or not.
You'll have to wait for someone that knows more about the gear drive Cubs, someone like say, Matt G.
Matt, tag, your it.
Matt, tag, your it.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
I put those in the first clutch I went through...I don't think they make a difference. If you have a new friction disc and new roll pins in the 3-pin driver, it's already so tight that it won't rattle, and the friction disc can't float fore and aft with the springs installed. I haven't installed them in any of the 3 clutches I've done since that first one. If you put them in wrong, they fall off and get lost anyway.
Jeez, Kraig, how'd you know I was going to check back?
Jeez, Kraig, how'd you know I was going to check back?
