Archive through April 13, 2014

[dschwandt]

Well, I made the double "TEE" w/the 2 3/4" dia studs to fit the 3/4" pipe recievers on the mount. I did not have any 3/8" x 3/4 flat so I used 1x1/2" that I did have. The 1" gives a little more bearing area for the shredder body to sit on. more on that later.

Found 2 springs at Theisens that looked to be close to the original wire size and O.D. to the 1 original spring that was still present. The new one was about twice as long so I cut it and used half in each one of the receiver tubes. Re-assembled everything and installed the belt.

The other spring I cut into 2 pieces about 2" long and used those on top of the rear bearing bolts as pictured in the parts look-up along wth a flat washer and a ny-lock nut. These control the tension on the PTO belt which, by the way, is the same as the QA 42 belt. This also kind of automatically aligned the pulleys/sheaves on the shredder/front drive belt.

The receiver was dirty inside so I cleaned it well and put a thin coat of grease on the inside as well as on the 2 pins that slide up and down in the recievers on top of the springs.

PROBLEM: My springs were not strong enough to keep the belt tight enough to keep it from flopping around.

Solution: go to a stronger larger I.D. spring (I bought a couple just in case) wich will require a larger I.D. receiver (1") This mod would only be noticeable by someone "in the know" so to speak, once installed and painted.

Secondary problem: The top edge of the "TEE" rubs on the lower edge/wall/side of the shredder where it rests wearing a gouge in the thin sheet metal used for the body. The sides are only like 1/8" sheet or so. Possible solution would be a short length of 3/4"x3/4" angle, which would provide more bearing surface on the top of the TEE. This could be pinned to the lower screen pin which is just behind the TEE. This angle would have a spot of grease for lube and could be replaced as needed when worn. Better still would be a small piece of semi truck 5th wheel slip plate secured to the top edge of the double TEE. I think I will pursue this mod tomorrow.

This would keep the appearance as close to original as possible and still be useable IMHO.

A good re-pro of the shield would make a presentable piece of machinery IMHO, so Doug, If you would be so kind!!

Thanks Guys!

 

[mfrade]

well I guess the archive bug got me also.. grrr..

#1

well it looks like it is there!

 

[mfrade]

I cannot get the others to go.. even at 98 and 99 k they won't load. I'll send them directly to your e-mail Paul.

 

[sblunier]

David S.

Try if with ear corn.......makes great cracked corn for animal feed!!!!

I never bothered with all of the springs on the belt tensioner on mine....I just drew both pillow blocks down until both belts were tight and let her eat!!!!!

 

[rberg]

Marlin, now that I have the manual I just do not know how to add fluid unit will not reverse or go forward, removed the lines to the power steering and there is no pressure

 

[pleffelman]

Rebuilding my original cub and air cleaner base has a L bracket on backside with two holes in it, but no where to fasten to, thought may mount at side of carb, but nothing there, is this correct base for original with kohler k181, thanks for any input. Paul

 

[bjamison]

Had a pretty good few days with the 126. Swapped out the Walboro carb with a cleaned/rebuilt #26, put new points and condenser on and retorqued the head.

Harry B - yes it was the main jet (aka: thingy) I couldn't get out, but overall the carb was pretty clean, so I gave it a try leaving the main jet alone and so far - all is good.

One thing I found was a missing head bolt under the tin that sets under the fuel tank bracket. I have no idea how that happened - but am glad I found it. I put the head and gasket on the engine last year, and can't say I've seen any ill effects from missing the head bolt - but I think I'm going to pull the head and put a new gasket on it to be safe.

Kind of a pain working on the K301 in some ways. The bolts that hold the carb to the block are mostly blocked by the carb body. The throttle shaft really sets close to the high speed needle. To torque the head, I had to remove the fuel tank and it's bracket. If I pull the head I'll have to deal with that stuff again and the heat shield on the other side of the engine. IMHO, Kohler and to some extent IH should have done a better job keeping the head clear of this stuff. Servicing would be so much easier.

Also next up, tubes for the front tires, engine and tranny oil change and sharpen the blades and this tractor will be ready for mowing duty for the summer!

My brother came over today and I let him tool around the yard with the 126 and I've mentioned several times that 2nd gear is a little fast for the terrain I mow, but watching him drive around in 2nd didn't look very fast at all - LOL! Last summer I mowed with the 126 and my boys with the 109 and other color tractors. I tell them to keep the speed down when they are mowing, want them to be safe. But I've wondered if they think I'm flying around on the 126, because it feels that way to me in 2nd gear. But as I said above, when my brother was driving it today, it didn't look so fast!

Quick question - does anyone do any type of work/chore with their IHCC in 3rd gear? Anyone mowing in 3rd gear?

BTW, this 12 hp engine is VERY strong. When adjusting the carb and verifying the governor was doing its job, I mowed a couple of height spots and no problems at all. It was pretty thrifty on gas last summer too. Gas in my neck of the woods is on the rise again. I saw one place with it for $3.79/gal. So the better the mileage, the more I like and doesn't appear yet the 12hp and 48 inch deck are a mismatch that can't handle heavier grass.

 

[sblunier]

3rd gear 1/2 throttle is perfect for pulling the fertilizer spreader....

3rd gear WOT is ideal for plowing snow.

3rd gear 1/2 throttle makes great work of pulling the cart around the yard too......

 

[mhomrighausen]

Ron B. I have to leave for work in a couple of minutes so maybe someone else will step in to walk you through what to do. Even though I basically slept all day yesterday my brain still isn't awake enough yet.

 

[bjamison]

Steve B - "3rd gear WOT is ideal for plowing snow." Would that be considered "ramming" speed...

 

[dfrisk]

BILL "QQ". - Yes, wide open in 3rd is "Ramming Speed", just make sure you wear all your safety gear, full face helmet, Hans Device, fire suit, etc.

I tend to agree with you that the 19T or Fast 2nd is a bit too fast for mowing. I have mowed in 2nd with my 72 a lot, but cut quality suffers, about the only time I mow in 2nd anymore is when the grass is really dry and sparce, like after a month or so of drought. The slower 16T 2nd is a good mowing speed, used to mow all the time in 2nd with the old 70, would only drop into 1st when the grass was a bit more than the old K161 or 181 could handle, which was any place the grass was higher than 5-6 inches.

Far as your head gasket situation, just keep practicing... when the 70 was newer, like around 1968 or '69, the head was warped, but Dad didn't have anything flat enough to dress it on, so I got REALLY good at removing the gas tank, head, cooling shrouds, and replacing the head gasket and re-installing everything. Even using hand tools, it only took me 30-40 minutes tops. We used Aluminum paint on the head gasket as sealer, I'd spray a heavy coat or two on the new gasket before I started pulling things apart, it'd be nice and tacky by the time I installed it.

 

[hydroharry]

Bill QQ - 3rd Gear WOT with a blade must be scary too. If anyone does that they MUST make sure they do NOT have the blade trip locked. I rammed a pile of snow/ice (maybe a glacier) one time with my Hydro going a bit to fast and it nearly threw me over the front of the tractor. The blade made a heck of a BANGING noise when the trip springs pulled it back. If I would have had the blade trip locked I know I would have found myself in the barb wire fence across the road from my place.

Now - about your missing headbolt. You mentioned thinking your engine may have been running lean/hot with the Walbro carb. If so it could be the reason one head bolt got loose and backed itself out. Also, I seem to recall the gas tank mount covering some of the bolts but a picture might be worth 10,000 words. I believe you should have some studs and some bolts. One thing when you install the new head gasket you need to torque, run 15-20 minutes, cool for 60 minutes, and then re-torque. If you don't I'll bet 9 out of 10 times you're gonna have a loose torque and eventually blow your gasket again.

Now, about the carb mounting bolts - they are easy enough to get at if you have a wrench that works well. Once you're removed/installed a carb about 6 or 7 times you'll get the hang of it, and know the quickest steps to do it.

As for the High-speed needle being close or covered by the throttle linkage, I think that only starts to occur when you're at WOT or if it's hunting on you. You need a special little screw driver - or use your thumb and forefinger for that "special" little adjustment.

 

[dlbarnett]

David S & Paul T here are the dimensions of the belt cover. David which belt is slipping pto to jack shaft or jack shaft to chipper? I tighten the pto belt down until the spring are fully compressed. I believe I'm using a 4L290 on the pto and 4L410 to the chipper, I keep extras of both on hand as these things seem be pretty hard on belts, that why I don't keep the belt guard on mine.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Paul L., any chance you could post a photo of the carb and L bracket? I can't find any part matching the description of the L bracket in the exploded parts drawings or on my own Original.

 

[mbounds]

Kraig: try TC-113, section A, page 4, item #4. There you will find the Original model carb support bracket. -)...note that the upper end isn't shown well but in reality is bent into an "L" . shape.and supports the oil bath air cleaner - not the carb itself.

Myron B

 

[pfunk]

Kraig, pictures wold help, but it sounds to me like Paul L. doesn't have the oil bath air cleaner but just a regular 7 hp air cleaner. Just my guess from his description. I know some of those air cleaners have an L-shaped bracket on the back that connects to the carb.

 

[sblunier]

Who actually uses anything BUT 3rd for plowing snow?

Slower means lost momentum and less work done.

Notice I didn't say "ram the pile of hard snow WOT in 3rd", but you sure do get a nice roll of the board when you use it in the open. Don't be afraid to use your Cub to its potential folks!!!!!!

And of course don't lock the blade to move snow.......

 

[jbaker]

Whats all this 3rd gear for pushing snow talk about??
I just move a shiny chrome lever to what ever infinate speed I want

 

[sblunier]

BTW, its snowing like crazy in Peoria, IL right now.......the winter that won't end...........

 

[kmcconaughey]

Paul F., could be.

Myron, I was discounting that bracket as the possible part Paul L. was referring to. Something in his description leads me to believe that it is not the bracket that mounts to the top of the oil bath filter. But then,