Ken-tuck - Nope, sold the truck and the camper! I have a "new" cub hauler now; 1995 Chevy K2500. It's even "cub yeller" thanks to the fact that it was a town electric truck in it's former life. Less than 60K on the odometer and only $6K for a 3/4-ton 4WD; how could I go wrong?
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Archive through April 13, 2004
- Thread starter kweaver
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
trentschler
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- Tom Rentschler
Gentlemen, I purchased some MMO yesterday for my 104 (the one that is unrestored) for some valves that I think are sticking. My question is: Where do I apply it? How long do I let it sit. Do I mix it with the gas, or do I add it as oil. I'm just a little unsure, as I read the FAQ reply on MMO... I hope it is my valves, cause I'm tired of it losing power after 20 minutes. The muffler also begins to glow a bit after 15-20 minutes. Any other suggestions?
R
rmull
Guest
Well Rich, since you asked, it is a Chevy.
Burned the midnight oil last night...I was until 2AM getting the 1872 put back together. What I thought was a bent driveshaft turned out to be a bad engine/driveshaft flange. The swivel bearing had come completely out allowing the driveshaft to flop around. Put a different CI tranny in it, and fixed my hydro filter clearance issue with the 60" Haban lateral support...I had to drill the hydro front support holes higher in the frame to get it to sit at the proper level.
Got the Cat '0' 3pt mounted, brakes adjusted & hydro neutral adjusted. Tonight the sheetmetal goes on and probably some playing in the garden to see how she does, then I need to get the 71 ready to plow.
Burned the midnight oil last night...I was until 2AM getting the 1872 put back together. What I thought was a bent driveshaft turned out to be a bad engine/driveshaft flange. The swivel bearing had come completely out allowing the driveshaft to flop around. Put a different CI tranny in it, and fixed my hydro filter clearance issue with the 60" Haban lateral support...I had to drill the hydro front support holes higher in the frame to get it to sit at the proper level.
Got the Cat '0' 3pt mounted, brakes adjusted & hydro neutral adjusted. Tonight the sheetmetal goes on and probably some playing in the garden to see how she does, then I need to get the 71 ready to plow.
kweimann
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- Nov 11, 2001
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- Kenny Weimann
Tom R.,
Take the head off and make sure you don't have a heavy buidup of carbon under the exhaust valve holding it partially open. I always use MMO, I mix it with my fuel (60ML to 5 gals). Some guys use a capfull in the fuel tank with each fill up.
Also check for a .020 gap on the points, a wrong gap will change the timing and run hot. If it were me I'd do a valve job with new guides. My .02 Kenny
Take the head off and make sure you don't have a heavy buidup of carbon under the exhaust valve holding it partially open. I always use MMO, I mix it with my fuel (60ML to 5 gals). Some guys use a capfull in the fuel tank with each fill up.
Also check for a .020 gap on the points, a wrong gap will change the timing and run hot. If it were me I'd do a valve job with new guides. My .02 Kenny
Bruce, Ken, you both likely already know that there are various lock nuts available including "deformed thread" versions which is kind of what Ken described how to make. Check McMaster-Carr just enter "lock nut" into the search and you'll be amazed at the variety that are available.
Bruce-
What if you just lopped the head off that axle retaining bolt and substituted a good hardened washer with a smaller capscrew threaded in where the head of the bolt used to be? I'd think there would be clearance for that.
What if you just lopped the head off that axle retaining bolt and substituted a good hardened washer with a smaller capscrew threaded in where the head of the bolt used to be? I'd think there would be clearance for that.
Kraig -- life doesn't stand still while you're waiting for an order from a supply house. Some repairs have to be done on the spot with what ever means available. I was just giving generic info that can be used by anyone for anything at any time. I keep forgetting that IH products have to be repaired only in the correct manner.
Of course he could also drill and tap a small hole through one of the flats on the nut and screw a set screw up against the bolt threads but again that's not permitted.
Please excuse me folks for not having an income of .. oh lets say $50k - $150k per year and I have to do things the simple cost effective way. Why spend $5 if 5 cents will produce the same outcome.
With a household income of around $21k and house payments of $528 you do what you can afford. I do not damage my cubs but I can't afford to run to a dealer or order parts and sit on my hands and wait either. That is why the 127 came out of retirement last week when the 2166 belt broke. I couldn't afford a belt nor did I have gas in my truck to drive 55 miles round trip to get one. A friend siphoned gas out of his truck for me to mow.
If no one likes my simple approach to things then I will bow out and B&B can delete my username.
simple - truthful - the way it is
This is not aimed at you as a "I'm pissed" subject but just the plain facts that not everyone can do things like everybody else can afford. There are people just trying to survive but yet still own something that isn't junk.
Of course he could also drill and tap a small hole through one of the flats on the nut and screw a set screw up against the bolt threads but again that's not permitted.
Please excuse me folks for not having an income of .. oh lets say $50k - $150k per year and I have to do things the simple cost effective way. Why spend $5 if 5 cents will produce the same outcome.
With a household income of around $21k and house payments of $528 you do what you can afford. I do not damage my cubs but I can't afford to run to a dealer or order parts and sit on my hands and wait either. That is why the 127 came out of retirement last week when the 2166 belt broke. I couldn't afford a belt nor did I have gas in my truck to drive 55 miles round trip to get one. A friend siphoned gas out of his truck for me to mow.
If no one likes my simple approach to things then I will bow out and B&B can delete my username.
simple - truthful - the way it is
This is not aimed at you as a "I'm pissed" subject but just the plain facts that not everyone can do things like everybody else can afford. There are people just trying to survive but yet still own something that isn't junk.
Gov:
Thought of you twice today:
1) Pretty chick conductor on the train this morning. (Hmm. . .Bryan would like that. . .).
2) Attended a meeting that lasted 2hrs. The host brought Krispy Kream donuts. (Hmm. . .Bryan would like that. . .)
Thought of you twice today:
1) Pretty chick conductor on the train this morning. (Hmm. . .Bryan would like that. . .).
2) Attended a meeting that lasted 2hrs. The host brought Krispy Kream donuts. (Hmm. . .Bryan would like that. . .)
Kentucky:
Don't go. Like your advise. (your preachin' to the choir. . .)
I once used duct tape to hold down the spacer that centers the steering column. Got chided for not rebuilding it (or using a screw or sumthin').
Hey.
I'm still here. The tractor still works. (I think the tape has become more solid over the years).
Don't go. Like your advise. (your preachin' to the choir. . .)
I once used duct tape to hold down the spacer that centers the steering column. Got chided for not rebuilding it (or using a screw or sumthin').
Hey.
I'm still here. The tractor still works. (I think the tape has become more solid over the years).
bmcmeen
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- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Ray -
Yeah, I woulda liked that!
The old CNW lines don't have any of that, probably due to the UP requirement that conductors be able to carry a 90lb coupler knuckle
But there was a nice conductor on the last Rock Island train I took, plus they had a bar car!!!
The old CNW lines don't have any of that, probably due to the UP requirement that conductors be able to carry a 90lb coupler knuckle
But there was a nice conductor on the last Rock Island train I took, plus they had a bar car!!!
Bryan, I think "we" went away for a while.
Ken, I hear you, I've used your method before myself. I'll second Ray, it's good to have you back.
My reason for posting the link and the note was that there are an amazing amount of special lock nuts, <font size="-2">not to mention all the other special hardware</font>, available and it might interest others here who are not aware of the stuff, and I like to post links.
)
<font size="-2">BTW, I assure you I don't have anywhere near a household income of $50K. Quite a bit south of that in fact, and my house payments are around the $1k/month level. As far as Cubs being "correct", I lean towards the "incorrect" when it comes to my own Cubs. I do offer Hydro Harry'esque' correctness posts to people that post photos of refurbished Cubs but not to be critical but to offer info because I assume they were trying to be original as possible.</font>
My #2 125 with it's add on lights and rear mounted battery and weights can hardly be considered correct! And at the moment it has Fleet Farm hydraulic transmission oil in it ('cause when I changed it I couldn't afford the proper Hy-Tran) and JD "Torque Guard" oil in the engine. It does have the proper Cub Cadet hydrostatic filter though.)
Ken, I hear you, I've used your method before myself. I'll second Ray, it's good to have you back.
My reason for posting the link and the note was that there are an amazing amount of special lock nuts, <font size="-2">not to mention all the other special hardware</font>, available and it might interest others here who are not aware of the stuff, and I like to post links.
) <font size="-2">BTW, I assure you I don't have anywhere near a household income of $50K. Quite a bit south of that in fact, and my house payments are around the $1k/month level. As far as Cubs being "correct", I lean towards the "incorrect" when it comes to my own Cubs. I do offer Hydro Harry'esque' correctness posts to people that post photos of refurbished Cubs but not to be critical but to offer info because I assume they were trying to be original as possible.</font>
My #2 125 with it's add on lights and rear mounted battery and weights can hardly be considered correct! And at the moment it has Fleet Farm hydraulic transmission oil in it ('cause when I changed it I couldn't afford the proper Hy-Tran) and JD "Torque Guard" oil in the engine. It does have the proper Cub Cadet hydrostatic filter though.
)
Oh, I forgot the #2 125 also has a hose clamp and wire holding the steering tube in place, without which, the tube will slide down into the steering gear box.
Ryan - Bought my last Chevy truck brand new in 1986. Just sold it a month or so ago with 230K on it; the kid who bought it loves it. I had a brand new Ford before that for two years before the repairs got too ridiculous. Everyone I have personally known who bought a Dodge has had problems (plus the local Dodge dealer around here is way too pricey and will not deal). Whatever works for you I guess...
I agree whole hartedly KENtuckyKen.
I myself only earn close to 24k a year and have learn to do things the simple way, like you said why spend $5 when 5 cents will do.
I have made a many repairs to my cubs useing non-typical procedures, I use what is at had at the time. then when I have the money to order the correct part, and if it is really needed I will order it.
I myself only earn close to 24k a year and have learn to do things the simple way, like you said why spend $5 when 5 cents will do.
I have made a many repairs to my cubs useing non-typical procedures, I use what is at had at the time. then when I have the money to order the correct part, and if it is really needed I will order it.
I make nothin a year! If one breaks, I just hoop on another one! Or steal parts from it anyway. grin
