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Archive through April 13, 2004
- Thread starter kweaver
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
bmcmeen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2002
- Messages
- 2,106
- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Geez, didn't we already post the "how it all fits together" picture here in the last couple of weeks?
Sigh, I guess it's up to ME to find it...
<font size="-2">doesn't ANYONE use the Keyword Search?</font>
Sigh, I guess it's up to ME to find it...
<font size="-2">doesn't ANYONE use the Keyword Search?</font>
No we don't Bryan.
Here's a new decal for Art though, grin
Better have one for you too!
Can't forget the ole Grump Weaver!
Here's a new decal for Art though, grin
Better have one for you too!
Can't forget the ole Grump Weaver!
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Did a hydro fluid change on my old hard working 1450 today, getting it ready for another long hot summer. I have heard people say that hydraulic fluid doesn’t go bad, just change the filter regularly so I was particularly interested in what I would find when I opened the back plate. The fluid I dumped out of the filter was as clear as could be. The fluid that came out of the case looked good but there was a small amount of black soot on the bottom of the case. Since it had been spotless 2 years ago and there is no place for contamination to get in It must be the oil breaking down, or the wear of the bearings or hydro plates. Even if it had a drain plug I still believe it’s best to pull the rear plate and do a good cleaning and put in new fluid on a regular basis.
For the rear gasket plate I cut out a piece of 1/8 th inch Neopreme material. I cut the center so the width of the gasket is slightly larger than the original gasket. I’ve done this on several Cubs now and no leaks and should make next fluid change easier.
This time I only torqued the gasket to 50 inch pounds and it seems adequate. Added a drop of locktite to each bolt.
When I was checking everything over I noticed that the Rag joints were egg shaped. Checked my records and I replaced the front and rear bushing on the drive shaft and also replaced the Rag joints in July 2001. The Rag joint material looked good, no material detoriation but they were both badly out of round. The bushing look good and no vibration but I don’t like the looks of the Rag Joints.
This is an early 1450 so it only has the one Rag joint in the front and one in the rear. I put in a 16 hp engine several years ago and normally the tractor is used for mowing. This spring I tried some plowing with it. I guess my questions are: Did the plowing do the damage? Is the 16 hp too much for the single Rag joints? Are Rag joints not made as good nowadays? Is 3 years on a Rag joint normal?
My thoughts are to shorten the drive shaft and install double Rag joints like the 82 series has. Any other suggestions?
For the rear gasket plate I cut out a piece of 1/8 th inch Neopreme material. I cut the center so the width of the gasket is slightly larger than the original gasket. I’ve done this on several Cubs now and no leaks and should make next fluid change easier.
This time I only torqued the gasket to 50 inch pounds and it seems adequate. Added a drop of locktite to each bolt.
When I was checking everything over I noticed that the Rag joints were egg shaped. Checked my records and I replaced the front and rear bushing on the drive shaft and also replaced the Rag joints in July 2001. The Rag joint material looked good, no material detoriation but they were both badly out of round. The bushing look good and no vibration but I don’t like the looks of the Rag Joints.
This is an early 1450 so it only has the one Rag joint in the front and one in the rear. I put in a 16 hp engine several years ago and normally the tractor is used for mowing. This spring I tried some plowing with it. I guess my questions are: Did the plowing do the damage? Is the 16 hp too much for the single Rag joints? Are Rag joints not made as good nowadays? Is 3 years on a Rag joint normal?
My thoughts are to shorten the drive shaft and install double Rag joints like the 82 series has. Any other suggestions?
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Ken
Yea the engine sitting good, has new motor mounts and the rail mod. No vibration on the drive shaft.
Yea the engine sitting good, has new motor mounts and the rail mod. No vibration on the drive shaft.
Richard C,
WHAT'S THE DEAL!!!!!
I see dust and grease on that Cub! You sick this week?
WHAT'S THE DEAL!!!!!
I see dust and grease on that Cub! You sick this week?
RC -- ya didn't say if you were using a turning plow or what type or if you were in hard KY clay but yeah I'd say you torqued it up pretty tight and she ragged out on you. I'd say the belt material is still the same ol same ol but of course we'll have to wait for Steve's input since he probably has more seat time with a cub plow than anybody ... him and his secret plow works underground test facility.
Why isn't that tom cat digger out digging a hole in the flower bed ?
Why isn't that tom cat digger out digging a hole in the flower bed ?
R
roundy fendered cubs rule!
Guest
Hey, Bryan.
Thanks!! I forgot about that. That was alot easier than doing that word search thingy.
Thanks!! I forgot about that. That was alot easier than doing that word search thingy.
Tom-
My experience is the same right now on my 169, same belt, using it on a #2. I had to go get my CPE-II to figure out I was right. I had to back the screws almost all the way out of adjustment on the mule drive just to get it on.
My experience is the same right now on my 169, same belt, using it on a #2. I had to go get my CPE-II to figure out I was right. I had to back the screws almost all the way out of adjustment on the mule drive just to get it on.
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Richard-
You never cease to amaze me when you tell us what you're up to. It's comments like this that boggle my mind!...
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Checked my records and I replaced the front and rear bushing on the drive shaft and also replaced the Rag joints in July 2001<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Charlie-
;-)
You never cease to amaze me when you tell us what you're up to. It's comments like this that boggle my mind!...
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Checked my records and I replaced the front and rear bushing on the drive shaft and also replaced the Rag joints in July 2001<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Charlie-
;-)
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Well I got some paint on the new plow the other night and took some time tonight to put it all together and "pre-adjust".
I had some good help....
Heel of landside adjustment...
Rolling cutter set "to land"...
Cleaned up the big 12" bottom...
Added a wrench free adjuster...
AND, got a good look at the rig from a worm's perspective!!!!!
I'm still working on one more little detail.......Come on PD!!!!!!!!!
I had some good help....
Heel of landside adjustment...
Rolling cutter set "to land"...
Cleaned up the big 12" bottom...
Added a wrench free adjuster...
AND, got a good look at the rig from a worm's perspective!!!!!
I'm still working on one more little detail.......Come on PD!!!!!!!!!
Mr Plow>
From the top look of the colter, it looks like you will need to adjust the point of the plow in so it is even with the plow beam.
I do this when setting up my plow and it seems to help, it is also suggested in the " how to set up a plow" part of the instruction that come with a new plow.
From the top look of the colter, it looks like you will need to adjust the point of the plow in so it is even with the plow beam.
I do this when setting up my plow and it seems to help, it is also suggested in the " how to set up a plow" part of the instruction that come with a new plow.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Lonny,
That photo is a little deceiving, the plow is sitting on the point of the share and the landside is off of the ground (gets a little twist going - added to the slightly offset point of the 12" share), BUT it is possible that is could use a little more landing adjustment.
I checked the landing adjustment "in furrow" and it was pulling about right in my garden. We'll see how it looks this weekend and go from there.
Thanks for commenting on it, in that pic it looks much worse than it is.
(Message edited by sblunier on April 13, 2004)
That photo is a little deceiving, the plow is sitting on the point of the share and the landside is off of the ground (gets a little twist going - added to the slightly offset point of the 12" share), BUT it is possible that is could use a little more landing adjustment.
I checked the landing adjustment "in furrow" and it was pulling about right in my garden. We'll see how it looks this weekend and go from there.
Thanks for commenting on it, in that pic it looks much worse than it is.
(Message edited by sblunier on April 13, 2004)
Neat trick...
Yessirday, I had the exhaust off the 109... I made that 20" extension pipe with rain-flippy. Well, the old muffler was still in good shape, but the aluminized finish was ugh-lee, and the extension pipe wasn't fantastic either... (it had some old paint on it).
So I started her up, and about the time the paint started blisterin' on that pipe, I took the 4.5" grinder with wire-wheel and stripped it all down good. Gave the muffler a light brushing too, but just to take off any stray crud... then let it cool.
Then I hung it on a wire (or 'whar', depending on how far south you live), and hosed it down really good with a can of cold-galvanizing compound.
Now, I've used this compound for antenna brackets, tower sections, and the walkway handrails for my boat dock, and it works really good for coming out of a rattle-can. After drying overnight, I figger'd on a 50-50 chance that it'd burn off at first fire-up.
And after starting it, running it for a while, then hooking on the blade and grading a 90' x 5' swath across the back of the lot, it's still lookin' like I just sprayed it on!
Grrrrreat Stuff!
Yessirday, I had the exhaust off the 109... I made that 20" extension pipe with rain-flippy. Well, the old muffler was still in good shape, but the aluminized finish was ugh-lee, and the extension pipe wasn't fantastic either... (it had some old paint on it).
So I started her up, and about the time the paint started blisterin' on that pipe, I took the 4.5" grinder with wire-wheel and stripped it all down good. Gave the muffler a light brushing too, but just to take off any stray crud... then let it cool.
Then I hung it on a wire (or 'whar', depending on how far south you live), and hosed it down really good with a can of cold-galvanizing compound.
Now, I've used this compound for antenna brackets, tower sections, and the walkway handrails for my boat dock, and it works really good for coming out of a rattle-can. After drying overnight, I figger'd on a 50-50 chance that it'd burn off at first fire-up.
And after starting it, running it for a while, then hooking on the blade and grading a 90' x 5' swath across the back of the lot, it's still lookin' like I just sprayed it on!
Grrrrreat Stuff!
Re:
Comments on bolt/mule drive clearance on 147.
A few days ago, I posted a progress report on the axle-tightening and general steering improvement project. I had used a cut-down bolt, which I had already ground to get a shorter bolt head. Yesterday I hooked up the mule drive, and found I needed just a little more clearance. About one minute was needed with a hand-held grinder, with the bolt still in the tractor. Works fine. If it starts loosening too quickly, I may attempt to drill the bolt and use a castle nut and cotter pin, or find or create a couple of thin jam nuts.
Has anyone tried, located, or even looked for a socket head bolt for this application? I would think there would be a smaller outer diameter of the head, which may put it out of the way even without modifications. Maybe not.
Comments on bolt/mule drive clearance on 147.
A few days ago, I posted a progress report on the axle-tightening and general steering improvement project. I had used a cut-down bolt, which I had already ground to get a shorter bolt head. Yesterday I hooked up the mule drive, and found I needed just a little more clearance. About one minute was needed with a hand-held grinder, with the bolt still in the tractor. Works fine. If it starts loosening too quickly, I may attempt to drill the bolt and use a castle nut and cotter pin, or find or create a couple of thin jam nuts.
Has anyone tried, located, or even looked for a socket head bolt for this application? I would think there would be a smaller outer diameter of the head, which may put it out of the way even without modifications. Maybe not.
Bruce -- they usally have a longer head on them. On the loosening of the nut you can take a regular nut and a hammer and good solid thick metal (anvil) and make it a lock nut by giving it a wack with the hammer. Sit the nut on it's edge and hit it BUT be WARNED it may / will shoot across the shop like a bullet in most cases. Don't over do it or it will close to much and not go on. If not enough to give it a tight grip do it again. It's a good idea to put a mark on the flat that you strike it on before hitting it incase you need to do it again. BECAREFULL if you try this. It's worked for decades as I learned it from my grandfather and he propably got it from the RR when he was a teenager.
