Archive through April 12, 2004

[jczimmerman]

Gents:

Thanks for the discussion a while back on pulling the front PTO on a cub. I was able to get my 128 to give it up with minimal pain using a bit of chain and a two jaw set up on my slide hammer. The manual was useless on this subject with the statement "remove the pto as a unit". Not a hint as to how.

Great site.

Thanks

Zimm

 

[bmcmeen]

Joe Z. -

One thing you have to realize - the manual wasn't written for folks trying to remove a PTO that's never been touched for 30 years.

 

[bmcmeen]

...and you'll understand what "taken off as a unit" means once you clean it up, rebuild it and make it as good as new because they slide right off if taken care of...

 

[kweaver]

RC -- ya stand a chance of arcing the plunger to the body doing that and it'll only work if you have a MIG. He did say he had the valve out and fluid came out when he put it in gear so he has / had fluid.
Another way is like I did my 129 is to soak it for a day or two and use a strong magnet to pull them up. I got it just high enough to get some pliers on it. Mcgiver also said he used a magnet but it was one of those "super lift" magnets.

 

[thoffman]

Have a Cub Cadet friend that is putting a 1A tiller on a 1450, but the correct belt seems to be way short/tight. I saw it here before but too darn lazy to dig through all the archives. What is the length of the belt? Anyone ever try a "Green line" GATES belt on one? Number?? Thanks!

 

[thoffman]

GeezeJuz,
The "Rev", "KenTucky", "McGiver", and "Johnny Sunshine"!! This is a Red Letter Day.

 

[wcompton]

Tom-
If by chance it's the 549-???-R1 belt, it was TIGHT getting it on my 169, but it works. I have two tiller belts, wouldn't ya know it, they're the same part number.

By chance, do belts shrink over time if not used, like as if the rubber dries out and it gets a little smaller?

 

[sblunier]

Wide frames and narrow frmaes take different tiller belts, make sure you have the right one...

 

[aaytay]

Heck, even the 1X9's and the QL's use a different tiller belt because of the QL's iso-mounts...

 

[cosborne]

Aaron K.
I recently acquired a 129 which wasn't running. The valves were pressed down to load the unit and they never came back up. I used a small wire brush to clean around the valves and the air to blow off any debris. I removed the valves and socked them in Hy-tran. I left a hy-tran soaked rag in the holes to prevent dirt/water from entering. After the valves had been soaking over night I found I could use a plastic punch to gently push (no hammering!)the valve ball from the bottom of the unit (there's a little 1/8 inch hole at the bottm) until the pins were fully out. I then removed more of the pin rust with a small wire brush. More cleaning. Soaked in new clean hy-tran. Then I just worked the pin in and out until it moved freely and re-intsalled in the tractor. Seems to work fine now.

Everyone: I know the manual says replace the valve as a unit but, there's a little spring and check ball inside it. It has to have been put together somehow. Has anyone ever disected a bad valve to see how they're built?

 

[rchristensen]

Ken W.
Wasn't me that recomended welding on the charge valve.

 

[F12Mahon]

Would it hurt to soak the hydraulic check valves in a carb cleaner bath? I was thinking of doing that before replacing the orings. One of mine likes to spit at me. Doing wheelies didn't fix it.

 

[kweaver]

RC - sorry ... didn't scroll down one more post or I did and it came back up. Leave it to a cheesehead to recomend it It'll work but it's risky as we discused some years back when he first brought it up.

Speaking of said chedderhead he aint sent me no pics of his pullers in a long time and I've made all this space on my hard drive ... hint hint
Come'on Jim D where's da pics ?

Jim C (jimbo) that goes for you too , I lost out on your twin engine grader.

Eugene -- if the valve doesn't have any O-ring or other seal in it then it's not going to hurt the metal but I've never pulled one out before so I don't know what's inside. The carb cleaner you get now days is weak compared to what it use to be but it'll still damage O-rings if left in to long. Get ya a mouth full of Redman and spit back at it

 

[wcompton]

Calvin-
I've got the Sauer drawing of the innards of the valve. The small end is pressed on and houses the spring. I suppose in theory it could be pulled off, valve taken apart and then maybe put back together, but the end that's pressed in looks rather thin.

FWIW, there's lots of dead hydros around. Might try hitting up one of the sponsors to see what they have. If you're lucky you might find some self-unloading valves that were used in the 82 series and newer.

 

[still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782]

Nope,it wasn't lil ol' me that suggested the weld/fix for the stuck hydro valve plungers. Sorry ;-) My fix was the rapid F to R move to cause the valve to open,thus flushing the valve itself. The reason they leak is due to contamination getting between the checkball and the seat. The way to remove this was to do the old"suicide" flush where you drive the tractor on a paved surface and do several hard forward to reverse "drops" with the hydro(since this will cause "wheelies" please do this at your own risk,I am not liable for damage to your Cub Cadet or you) The leaking will have stopped as soon as the valve is free of the debris. Now dump that old Hytran and install a new CUB Cadet brand filter only(automotive filters will not keep the system protected).
Where did I learn this "trick"??...doing field service on combines using Sunstrand hydros of course. Same principal,just smaller with the Cub hydro.
Wyatt,I have actually taken them apart back when I was younger(the valve assemblies)using several tools I made to open the "crimped" end and to "re-swedge" it when done. Those tools are nowhere to be found anymore. Besides the results were only so-so. Had about a 50-60% success rate back then. Just not worth the headaches.

Ken,the pullers still need to be all gussied up yet be-4 you get any pics,they are all still in their winter underwear since it has been such a cold spring here

 

[aaytay]

Anybody else picture Jim popping wheelies in a combine after that last post?..
;-)

 

[kmcconaughey]

Sorry Jim D., I remember the forward/reverse as being your trick but I thought the "weld a wire" was your's too. Soooo who came up with it? And please note that I did bold the last resort only. )

Ken, you have not missed out on Jim C's grader he hasn't posted any new photos of it in years.

Here's the most recent I recall of the assembled grader.

Then he took it apart to work on the hydraulic lift. If I recall correctly, these are the last I've seen from Jim on the grader.

 

[bmcmeen]

Kraig -

All this talk reminds me - did I ever scan the Sundstrand "repair" manual for you? It's not available from their website, you have to call them to get one.

One of these days I'm going to experiment with running the parts manuals thru this nice 70 page/minute scanner that's on my desk here and make a PDF out of it. Run it thru OCR, too

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ken, I think Rev's current dog is named Bonnie.

Rev, did I get that right?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bryan, no! (