-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through April 10, 2014
- Thread starter jharder
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Harry,
Angled blade:
In very heavy wet snow, an angled blade on the first pass often yields a "spin" as the blade must take a full cut and the heavy snow will push you off into a big circle...you simply can't go straight. The only way to try to go straight is to straighten the blade and hope you can push through to make the first pass. With narrow 42" blades this is often possible....on a 54" it simply carries too much snow and you spin out right after you create the giant slush "ho-ho" of rolled snow.
Wide blade + wet snow = LOADER
Loader gets it done!!!
BTW, I will often times leave the blade straight for the first pass up the middle of the drive in "normal" snow. It trails off equally on both sides and allows me to angle on the second pass and begin to open it up. Leaving it straight makes a wider path down the center, leaving more "wiggle room" on the second pass back through.
Angled blade:
In very heavy wet snow, an angled blade on the first pass often yields a "spin" as the blade must take a full cut and the heavy snow will push you off into a big circle...you simply can't go straight. The only way to try to go straight is to straighten the blade and hope you can push through to make the first pass. With narrow 42" blades this is often possible....on a 54" it simply carries too much snow and you spin out right after you create the giant slush "ho-ho" of rolled snow.
Wide blade + wet snow = LOADER
Loader gets it done!!!
BTW, I will often times leave the blade straight for the first pass up the middle of the drive in "normal" snow. It trails off equally on both sides and allows me to angle on the second pass and begin to open it up. Leaving it straight makes a wider path down the center, leaving more "wiggle room" on the second pass back through.
Still looking for input on dimensions for parts on my #59 shredder.
Come on Guys, I need to use this thing!
No luck on the springs yet either locally at least
Come on Guys, I need to use this thing!
No luck on the springs yet either locally at least
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Brian W. As Jim H. stated.... Right price go for it. You can always find another engine and either rebuild it or perhaps find a good used one.
David S. I believe Ryan McShane recently purchased one. I heard from him the other day and he's been working 16 hour days. He's not too far from you though.
We're working Saturday and off on Sunday so hoping for some good weather. I need some quality seat time and so does Fancy.
David S. I believe Ryan McShane recently purchased one. I heard from him the other day and he's been working 16 hour days. He's not too far from you though.
We're working Saturday and off on Sunday so hoping for some good weather. I need some quality seat time and so does Fancy.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Hey guys, I think we missed some important questions by a couple guys when the page turned. I'm gonna try and help here but think others should input as well.
Ronald B - a Sundstand Hydro pump turns the same direction as the drive shaft on a Cub Cadet. Unfortunately I can't tell you if that should be called CW or CCW because of the way the Kohler is installed in a Cub Cadet. Hope someone else can define it better and clarify.
Daniel G - on your question about how likely a worn trunion slot is the cause of "jerky acceleration and deceleration" - Yes I say if your Hydro is jerky or if the tractor speeds itself up substantially going down hill and slows itself down going up hill, it's very likely the result of a worn trunion slot. If it's jumpy or lurches it could be not enough tension on your hydro speed control lever, meaning you have to tighten it up some but that's not very likely, unless you almost have to hold your lever in place so you don't move it to quickly. The service manual probably calls out a certain number of ft/lbs tension but not quite sure how to really measure it. It needs some tension so you have to use some pressure to move it - it's can't be so loose that if you just touch it with one finger it moves. It should have enough tension that you have to use your hand to move it. Hope someone else can describe it more accurately - but I suspect you have a worn trunion slot. Have a read thru FAQ No. 14 and all the More Info links with it.
Brian W - the 1980 vintage 782 with a Series I engine and no spark, well it's really out of my league to discuss. I will say even if it were to end up being a minor issue for the no spark, that engine is a "failure waiting to happen". If you bought it and made the easy fix to get it running, would you really be happy and comfortable using it and running around knowing that the engine could go anytime? I suppose you could say that many of us worry about engine failure due to age and unknown hours, but that particular engine was known to fail more often than any right off the show room floor. I think Kohler replaced it with the Series II within 2 years of introducing it. There are Series II and some other engines around that are direct replacements, but most likely expensive especially in an area where there really aren't that many units around. If it were me I'd probably take a look see at the tractor, and then do some searching for new and used replacement engine prices, and then try to make a reasonable decision - knowing that if I got the tractor I would replace the engine.
Mike F - hey glad to hear you found yourself the hydraulic lift parts. If you happen to be buzzin the CT roads in about a month I might just be in the area at my son's place for a few days.
Frank - geez, did you miss it? Your 169 was suppose to be 169's. You were suppose to get Mike F's unit while he had it in winter storage - hope he doesn't read this. He left his sit so long I thought he might'a forgot he even had one.
Are you sure you looked at your 149's correctly. You know the decal colors are the same as the 169 and unless you really were looked you might just have a 149 and 169's.
David S - ain't many of those shredders out there so it's hard to get what you're asking. I'd suggest poking in every 4 or 5 days and trying again until someone does.
Steve - well I never really had the issue you describe. Maybe I never had the type of slushy snow you're talking about. As I mentioned I only had a 60 ft drive. When I used a 42" blade the first 3 years I lived in CT I angled it right from the get go. I started on the left side of my drive and pushed everything to the right. I'd start off making a straight run with the tractor and I pushed the same snow several times to get it all over the the right side of the drive. And yes, the snow would come tumbling over the blade on the first pass especially if it was more than 3-4 inches. And as I worked to the right I ended up having to angle the tractor to keep from having the snow tumble over the top of the blade. To me it was just the nature of the work. It was 10 years before I found the 54 blade and didn't use it that much. After about 3 years of using the 42" and having my eye out for a thrower I finally came across 3 QA42A's and bought all 3 for $100-125 each. I can't even recall right now what I had the 54 blade mounted on but for my situation I think I only ever really used it when the snow was just enough to worry about - and anything more I went to the thrower. But my recollection is that with about 1" of snow that 54 was like cutting butter, and I could really move with it. Overall I think everyone's situation is a little different. My driveway had a slight downward slope so I always started at the garage and worked to the street. My yard was raised just a little on the left side of the drive, and more even with the drive on the right. I also only ever pushed snow going down from the garage and just backed up from the street. People with longer drives would certainly have to figure out other methods, like splitting and doing parts, etc. There are just so many possiblities and variables that it's hard to say what's best for any situation. I will say if you have a hydro-angle on your 54 that sure does sound like the cat's meow (just to keep this discussion clean).
Hope I covered everyone here. If not, pipe back in and someone will help.
Ronald B - a Sundstand Hydro pump turns the same direction as the drive shaft on a Cub Cadet. Unfortunately I can't tell you if that should be called CW or CCW because of the way the Kohler is installed in a Cub Cadet. Hope someone else can define it better and clarify.
Daniel G - on your question about how likely a worn trunion slot is the cause of "jerky acceleration and deceleration" - Yes I say if your Hydro is jerky or if the tractor speeds itself up substantially going down hill and slows itself down going up hill, it's very likely the result of a worn trunion slot. If it's jumpy or lurches it could be not enough tension on your hydro speed control lever, meaning you have to tighten it up some but that's not very likely, unless you almost have to hold your lever in place so you don't move it to quickly. The service manual probably calls out a certain number of ft/lbs tension but not quite sure how to really measure it. It needs some tension so you have to use some pressure to move it - it's can't be so loose that if you just touch it with one finger it moves. It should have enough tension that you have to use your hand to move it. Hope someone else can describe it more accurately - but I suspect you have a worn trunion slot. Have a read thru FAQ No. 14 and all the More Info links with it.
Brian W - the 1980 vintage 782 with a Series I engine and no spark, well it's really out of my league to discuss. I will say even if it were to end up being a minor issue for the no spark, that engine is a "failure waiting to happen". If you bought it and made the easy fix to get it running, would you really be happy and comfortable using it and running around knowing that the engine could go anytime? I suppose you could say that many of us worry about engine failure due to age and unknown hours, but that particular engine was known to fail more often than any right off the show room floor. I think Kohler replaced it with the Series II within 2 years of introducing it. There are Series II and some other engines around that are direct replacements, but most likely expensive especially in an area where there really aren't that many units around. If it were me I'd probably take a look see at the tractor, and then do some searching for new and used replacement engine prices, and then try to make a reasonable decision - knowing that if I got the tractor I would replace the engine.
Mike F - hey glad to hear you found yourself the hydraulic lift parts. If you happen to be buzzin the CT roads in about a month I might just be in the area at my son's place for a few days.
Frank - geez, did you miss it? Your 169 was suppose to be 169's. You were suppose to get Mike F's unit while he had it in winter storage - hope he doesn't read this. He left his sit so long I thought he might'a forgot he even had one.
Are you sure you looked at your 149's correctly. You know the decal colors are the same as the 169 and unless you really were looked you might just have a 149 and 169's.
David S - ain't many of those shredders out there so it's hard to get what you're asking. I'd suggest poking in every 4 or 5 days and trying again until someone does.
Steve - well I never really had the issue you describe. Maybe I never had the type of slushy snow you're talking about. As I mentioned I only had a 60 ft drive. When I used a 42" blade the first 3 years I lived in CT I angled it right from the get go. I started on the left side of my drive and pushed everything to the right. I'd start off making a straight run with the tractor and I pushed the same snow several times to get it all over the the right side of the drive. And yes, the snow would come tumbling over the blade on the first pass especially if it was more than 3-4 inches. And as I worked to the right I ended up having to angle the tractor to keep from having the snow tumble over the top of the blade. To me it was just the nature of the work. It was 10 years before I found the 54 blade and didn't use it that much. After about 3 years of using the 42" and having my eye out for a thrower I finally came across 3 QA42A's and bought all 3 for $100-125 each. I can't even recall right now what I had the 54 blade mounted on but for my situation I think I only ever really used it when the snow was just enough to worry about - and anything more I went to the thrower. But my recollection is that with about 1" of snow that 54 was like cutting butter, and I could really move with it. Overall I think everyone's situation is a little different. My driveway had a slight downward slope so I always started at the garage and worked to the street. My yard was raised just a little on the left side of the drive, and more even with the drive on the right. I also only ever pushed snow going down from the garage and just backed up from the street. People with longer drives would certainly have to figure out other methods, like splitting and doing parts, etc. There are just so many possiblities and variables that it's hard to say what's best for any situation. I will say if you have a hydro-angle on your 54 that sure does sound like the cat's meow (just to keep this discussion clean).
Hope I covered everyone here. If not, pipe back in and someone will help.
mfrade
Well-known member
Now Harry... Everyone knows Frank is in Maine where they have 9 months of winter and 3 months of bad skiing...
But if he wants the 169.. it could be arranged.
On the series 1 motors, I was under the impression that they do ok as long as the machine doesn't operate on a angle or slope.
But if he wants the 169.. it could be arranged.
On the series 1 motors, I was under the impression that they do ok as long as the machine doesn't operate on a angle or slope.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
126 upgrades starting. Put a not-so new seat on the tractor last evening. It's about half wore out - but many times better than what was on it. Anxious to put the #26 carb on. I think this tractor is running lean with the fixed jet Walboro and somewhat hot too. Probably get-in a fluid change for the rear-end too.
kostendorf
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2012
- Messages
- 617
- displayname
- Keith Ostendorf
Sorry, I'm way off topic but I think someone is sending scam mail. Got this in my junk mail and deleted it... From: ------------ on behalf of ihcubcadet@ (aol.com ------------)
Ronald B, when standing at the front of a Cub Cadet and facing it, the input shaft to the hydrostatic pump would be turning CCW.
Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow"
I used my loader once when we had a snow storm.but soon put it back in the shop. I found the bucket would fill with snow and the snow would not come out of the bucket .Our snow seems to be heavy and wet, so that might be the reason for it freezing in the bucket . or the fact that my loader is stored in my heated shop at 64 deg . the warm bucket and the cold snow . might have worked better if I had left the loader sit out side for some time to cool down some before I used it. I would like to mount my 54" blade on the loader and try it for snow removal and might give that a go someday .
I used my loader once when we had a snow storm.but soon put it back in the shop. I found the bucket would fill with snow and the snow would not come out of the bucket .Our snow seems to be heavy and wet, so that might be the reason for it freezing in the bucket . or the fact that my loader is stored in my heated shop at 64 deg . the warm bucket and the cold snow . might have worked better if I had left the loader sit out side for some time to cool down some before I used it. I would like to mount my 54" blade on the loader and try it for snow removal and might give that a go someday .
DON - Your warm shop is the problem. To move snow, start your loader tractor, move it outside and let it run and go back inside for a half hour before moving snow.
If you run a snow blower like that, meaning take it out of your warm shop and expect it to work properly right away, it would ice up quick too.
I've moved MOUNTAINS of snow with loaders with buckets and the last 15 yrs with a blade on the loader, they work really well, just wish I had faster hydraulics on the old Farmall's.
If you run a snow blower like that, meaning take it out of your warm shop and expect it to work properly right away, it would ice up quick too.
I've moved MOUNTAINS of snow with loaders with buckets and the last 15 yrs with a blade on the loader, they work really well, just wish I had faster hydraulics on the old Farmall's.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Mike F - ya, that's what I also heard. Only run and use a Series I on the flat, no slopes or angles. Wonder how you get it in a trailer or on a pick-up bed. Can't be realistic to "only use it on flat ground". If I had one I'd have to have a warning sticker on the dash - and a mercury cut off switch on the ignition.
snicklas
Well-known member
Harry,
If I remember it is not forward/back angle, it is sideways angle (Like mowing a ditch/roadside). All the oil would run into the downhill (Normally the left cylinder)and starve the other side of oil. When the KT17 in Dad's let go, he was mowing the ditch in front of the house, and it was the right cylinder that let go. It now has a magnum 18 in it......
If I remember it is not forward/back angle, it is sideways angle (Like mowing a ditch/roadside). All the oil would run into the downhill (Normally the left cylinder)and starve the other side of oil. When the KT17 in Dad's let go, he was mowing the ditch in front of the house, and it was the right cylinder that let go. It now has a magnum 18 in it......
J
jclazar
Guest
I'm surprised nobody made a mini "Bull Dog" 54" push box yet for the snow removal for use on the IHCC's. We have two 15-footer's on the two Komatsu loaders for snow clearing, and those giants get the job done!
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Scott N - ya could be right (or is it left slope) but either way I don't know you could ever insure you didn't happen to just use it wrong one time. It's a tractor and supposed to be ready for work. Now, I do see a good recommendation for Dennis.
Dennis - why NO, all the previous stuff I saw was just RUMBLIN's about Onan. Are you on the look-out for a Kohler Mag 18? Isn't that the one where all you have to do is change the carb jet and it becomes a Mag 20? If you ain't looking then I guess you just have to keep sing'n that ole tune - On an On an On $$$$.
Dennis - why NO, all the previous stuff I saw was just RUMBLIN's about Onan. Are you on the look-out for a Kohler Mag 18? Isn't that the one where all you have to do is change the carb jet and it becomes a Mag 20? If you ain't looking then I guess you just have to keep sing'n that ole tune - On an On an On $$$$.
HARRY No, I'm not looking to re-power.... yet, but might be soon.
The last set of points/cond lasted 138.6 operating hours. Cheap imported from the lowest cost country junk.
Dad used to run the points & cond. on his old Farmall M's 400-500 hours when the books recommended replacing them @ 250 hrs. I had the EXACT same thing happen on the K321 a couple years ago too, condensor failure right around 125-140 op. hours. But I think new points/cond for a Kohler then was around $30.
The last set of points/cond lasted 138.6 operating hours. Cheap imported from the lowest cost country junk.
Dad used to run the points & cond. on his old Farmall M's 400-500 hours when the books recommended replacing them @ 250 hrs. I had the EXACT same thing happen on the K321 a couple years ago too, condensor failure right around 125-140 op. hours. But I think new points/cond for a Kohler then was around $30.
