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Archive through April 10, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Marty,
70 looks fantastic. Great Job!
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Hey guys,
Charging is back to normal on my 124. no more stall outs, i drove all day today with it, and no problems. Thanks to Paul, and all the rest who helped me get my 124 back on track. I got the new regulator installed, and it works flawless. That L terminal has nothin on it, cause i got no lights on my beast, but i may put some on. At least i'll know where to hook that wire.
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Thanks y'all
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Got another Cub this morning from a friend. An old 105, but i am having an issue with the hydro. It drives in Forward fine, but when you pull back into reverse, it kicks your arm up hard, and sort of vibrates back into neutral. Reverse barely works, so where is all that resistance comin from? Thanks.
 
Guys; The 44 A and C decks both have replaceable bearings. The 44A has a waterpump style bearing.ST745. The 44C has tapered bearings, Spacers, And seals. The cups are bad to cone a little and let the shaft loosen on the a deck. You can fix this with a flat surface and a hammer if not to bad worn. You can level the blades with the blade and pulley nuts on the 44 C deck because there is no stop for the nuts. Take either nut off and the shaft will slide out. Hope some of this makes sense. The parts lookup gives a view of the parts, And the sponsors will have or can get all the parts to repair the decks with.
 
Tim Daugherty

Have you done the trunnion adjustment? You might have a bad hydro release valve. Have a look at the FAQ and do the adjustment and see if that improves your reverse issue.
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Quick question on a 104 steering. Looks into both FAQs and I don't think I saw this answered. Also with hughesnet, doing searches isn't that quick either.

I have two 104s and both steer the same - good sharp turns to the right, almost nothing to the left. I don't think this is normal - my 123 turns immensely better to the left than both of these 104s. Is there an adjustment that can be made to get a sharper turning radius to the left?
 
Thanks, Matt - I was trying to work out the geometry in my head and was wondering what if.....
 
TERRY - Something else you can do to improve steering performance, drill another 3/8" dia. hole closer to the spindle center on the steering arm of the left spindle. Center-to-center distance should be 5/8 to 3/4 inch if I remember right. That allows the steering to turn ALL the way to the steering stops on the frt axle in both dirrections, you don't bottom out the stud in the steering gearbox on the end of the worm slot.
It really makes a world of difference when mowing around stuff in the yard. I didn't cut the arm off any, so if you don't like the change you just replace the tierod end in the original hole. Also speeds up the steering a bit, and the expense of slightly more steering effort.
 
I got another quick question...This is the pto that was in the 109 I just got. It looked to have been gone through in the recent past but being a stickler about knowing the shape of something I removed it. Everything was fine so I cleaned it up, painted it,and plan to put her back today. My question is about the nuts, or lack of "jam" nuts on the back. It has the three locking nuts you see in the pics. Are these ok to use or should I go back to using the jam nut system? I just don't want to have to remove it again for about 20-25 years.

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There's a name for this type of locking nut but I forget what it is. It was probably installed by a service tech because the po didn't turn wrenches.
Thanks to any and all....Wayne
 
Terry - First you should find the center of travel for the steering box. Take off both tie rods and turn the wheel lock to lock in both directions , counting the turns with a reference point on the dash. Then stop the steering wheel at center travel. Check the tie rods to see if they hook back up or make the needed adjustments without moving the steering wheel.
That is the first step in finding if something else needs done.

Wayne - As long as those nuts still had compression going back on and "felt" tight to the threads then you're good to go.
 
Terry:
What Kentuck said... note that when the steering wheel is 1/2 way between locks, the wheel may not look to be positioned correctly for "center", in which case, after you've got everything else adjusted, you'll take the wheel off and re-position it on the splined steering shaft...
 
Marty

WOW!! An inspiration to anyone thinking of restoring. Well done! Quality photos.
I notice even the ground is now covered with lawn LOL!. Thanks for sharing.
 
Good job Charlie! I may just have to take a day trip up your way to see your new place!
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You know WE missed you at the great spring plow day yesterday and friday. I had such fun on my cc122! LOT'S OF PEOPLE DIDN'T RECOGNISE ME FOR SOME ODD REASON.
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Today I used the cc122 to freshen up my raised beds for planting sweet corn sometime the next week or so. Here's some photos my wife took of me doing that. Good thing I called her out to take the photos. She said it looked like my right rear tire was looking pretty low! MAN IT WAS ABOUT FLAT! And I wondered why the push bar in the front looked so low on the right front!
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Guess I was still a little tired from the weekend!
 
John L.
WOW! You look 30 years younger!
With it still getting down in the 20's up here at night and burning wood, it's hard to go anywhere, Grrrrrr

I just watched a video and Rob K. thought there were around 250 tractors on the ground.
 
the screw on my kt17s gov backed out about a turn i tightened it back up but noticed the gov. gear wobbled side to side a little is some play normal or do i have a problem?
thanks josh
 
Wayne, those are "stover" lock nuts. They are better than nylon lock nuts or "nylocks" because you won't need a torch to remove them. They hold great, but technically with any lock nut, once you remove it, you should replace it. I've reused them before, but not too many times. Nick
 

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