Archive through April 09, 2012

[gsmyth]

1450
As you may be aware I'm struggling with my 1450. I got to the front and rear seals. Oddly, the rear seal was fine but I replaced it anyway as I don't believe it was ever replaced. But the front seal has been replaced and that is where my oil leak is for certain. The seal is not tight. It fits but is not "tap in" tight but a semi loose finger push tight. I checked the part numbers and they are correct. I don't know where to turn to figure out how to fix this. Is this a solvable engine block problem? Can that bore be amended with a sleeve? Can it be corrected with a different seal? I have through this site found some places that might be able to help with people more capable than I am and I'm pursuing them, but has anyone addressed this before? Apparently there is a product called Indian Head Gasket Seal, would that be of help? If this is old stock, do they dry out? I'm listening.

 

[tarthurs]

I checked the faqs and didn't see this so here we go. I have a 128 with a kolher replacement engine in it, it runs like a champ and doesn't smoke or anything. I can run it forever but when I shut it off it wont start back up until the engine cools, it just turns over real fast like there's no spark plug in it. Does this have something to do with the valves warpping and not seating fulling until it cools or is there something else causing this. Thanks

 

[bjamison]

Quick oil pan question.

On the K341 I've got in my 1650, the oil pan is aluminum. I have read where some folks are replacing these with a cast iron pan. Is this a common swap, is there something I need to be proactive/concerned about my aluminum oil pan before I put it back on? The pan I've got otherwise looks to be in good condition.

 

[bjamison]

BTW - I appreciate this forum and everyone's help with my 1650 and the questions that I have.

Two reasons I can think of for buying these old iron tractors.

1. They are VERY HEAVY DUTY.

2. The kind of help one gets on a site such as this simply is not possible from a dealer. That's not a slam on dealers, some are great, some are very busy and can't give you attention and some don't have a clue.

Thanks again everyone!

 

[dross]

Gary, I think if it was me, I'd get some old style thick black permatex. Make sure where the seal fits is real clean and then let it sit a day so to cure.

Tim, how does it start when cold?

Bill what kills the alluminum oil pans on a QL is the rubber engine mounts go bad and it gets a hole rubbed in it.

 

[tarthurs]

Dave, the engine starts right up when its cold usually on the second revolution with no smoke or anything. Its almost like the valves are sticking open, not letting it build compression.

 

[dfrisk]

KEN F. - re: draining oil with mower deck & mule drive attached.

I find a BREAD PAN fits between the mule drive arms and above the mower deck just fine and holds just over the 1-1/2 quarts of oil the Kohler holds.

It's not the hot setup on my 982 with the different steering setup, but I make it work.

BILL J. - I had an alum oil pan on a K301 in a 129 CC. It vibrated a LOT, even when it still had the balance (Gernade) gears, the five blades on the flywheel in a row out of the twelve was the cause. BUT, That CC wallowed out the engine mounting bolts holes in the oil pan, I had to Heli-Coil them, and they were starting to pull out too. To be honest, that may have happened even with a CI oil pan.

The alum pan MAY keep the oil cooler than a CI pan, and it's lighter, but it may also cause more oil leaks between the pan & block since aluminum expands more when heated than CI, it could cause more gasket wear, just like alum cylinder heads on CI engine blocks, but to a lesser degree since the oil pan runs cooler than a cyl head.

If your alum oil pan has good threads in the mounting holes, and the sealing surface is flat, and the drain plug stays tight and leak-free, I'd run it.

 

[dross]

Tim, With it starting so good cold and running like a champ I'd hate changing a lot. If you really think sticking valves are the cause run a little Marvel Mystery oil in it.

 

[tarthurs]

Dave, im not really sure what else the problem could be. When I try to start it hot the engine spins real fast just like it would with no spark plug in it, sticking valves are the only thing I can think of that would allow the compression out of the engine like that. I will have to pick up some marvel this week and see what happens.

 

[dsollenberger]

Hello everyoe, I am new here, purchased a 1976 1650 not running a year ago, I have been buying parts and I came across a 1862 roller with powersteering. I would like to change out the front axles and put the powersteering on the 1650. Does someone knowthe difference in the hydro pumps? I know the 1862 hydro is fluted and the 1650 is smooth round. Any thoughts? Thanks Daniel

 

[dtanner]

Daniel Sollenberger

1862 power steering can be put on your 1650 if you have a ported pump on your 1650 for front hyd ports. just tee into those lines to power your steering . I have plans to do that mod on my 129 and I will change the hydro over to a ported pump to run the power steering. I do not have plans to use another axle and hope my stock set up will work.Hope this helps .

 

[rjkaroses]

I was wondering what the decal kits are like that are on this website. I need a kit for my 105 and I wanted to get a good set. The set that I looked at seem to look OK. Just would like some feedback. Thanks
Randy

 

[tarthurs]

Randy, both the sticker kits I've got came from cub cadet warehouse and were good quality. They looked just like the originals and went on easy.

 

[mmunch]

I have a cub cadet 125, it only has a solid hitch on the rear. I am looking at purchasing a tiller for the rear. The one i'm looking at is a Model #2. Does this model need a type of 3 point hitch and if it does is it possible that I can put one on my 125. The picture is of the actual tiller that I am thinking of buying. If I should post this to another area please let me know and thanks for the help!

 

[fcurrier]

Mary: As good a place to post as any, and welcome. The tiller will need a sleeve hitch made for a narrow frame Cub Cadet, a right angle gear box, and a long, pretty expensive drive belt to go from the front PTO to the right angle gear box. I'm too lazy tonight to go take a pic of the one mounted to a 149, so maybe someone else will chime in.

 

[rjkaroses]

Thanks Tim,
I figured if they are on this site they are probably of good quality. I just needed some reassurance.
Randy

 

[hydroharry]

Mary M - I see Frank provided some good info on the No. 2 Tiller. It may not be clear that besides the Right Angle Gear Box you also need the Gear Box Mounting Frame. Normally this would all be part of the Tiller and the Tiller should be sold with it, but sometimes it gets separated and can be extremely hard to find on it's own. I suggest you have a look at page 11 of the installation Manual for the No. 2 Tiller, to see a picture with and without the gear box and gear box mount installed on the rear of the tractor. You can also see the rear lift 3 point. You can get to the Manual by going back to the Intro page for this Forum and go down to the thread marked Manuals, click on that and then click on the Manuals selection again, and then select IH Options, and then you should see a list with the No. 2 Tiller, click on that and it will download as a pdf file.

Gary S - are you sure you have a "new" seal for the front of the crankshaft? You should have to tap it in with a seal punch. The old ones usually fit finger loose and will just fall back out. If your new one is fitting that way I'd go back for another. You want it to be good for a long time.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but need reviving now and again).

 

[mfrade]

Gary Smyth, find a loc-tite dealer (ww grainger) and get this one, LOCTITE 68015 and don't forget the primer. It's meant for retaining bearings with a "weak" bore fit. It'll easily secure your seal. I've used it many times and would not think twice about the repair.

 

[astrawderman]

Hey guys, I finally got my valves adjusted and my governor set. I went to crank the motor and all that happens is the solenoid just clicks. The battery is fully charged. Would this be a problem with the switch key, the solenoid, or the starter generator?

 

[sblunier]

Donald, Danial,

PS on you 1650 from 1862.

It's not as easy as "teeing into your existing lines". The PS handpump has a priority valve in it to prevent all of the oil for steering from going to a lift cylinder and causing a crash. The PS handpump will have to be plumbed exactly like the hyd. diagram in the 1862 manual, with all of the ported hydro oil going to the PS handpump BEFORE being directed to the lift valve (to make sure the priority circuit works correctly). It's not difficult, but it isn't just a simple series hydraulic system either (open center hyds. don't work in parallel).

I would do it in a heartbeat....PS is the cat's a$$.......but it will take some work and a little bit of tubing....BTDT