Archive through April 09, 2009

[cgbusch]

quick question, on those 1450 tractors with dual hydralic levers, one lever controls the deck and the other lever controls what, the front?

Are there any IH cub cadets that had one lever for the rear and the other lever for the mowing deck?

 

[snicklas]

Chris,

Yes, the second lever is for the front ports on the 1450's. I have one that is set up that way. No, it is one common lever that controls everything. There is no IH Cub Cadet that has independent controls. Someone may have made a custom setup, but not from the factory.

Scott

 

[wheinsohn]

I have been running ag tires for mowing for over 4 years. I ran the 149 with 10.5's with windshield washer fluid and 90#s of weights in each wheel for 2 years and the last 2 years my 129 with 8.5's equipped the same way. Like Dennis said, I no longer tear up the lawn with tires spinning on hills and corners and I can climb steeper hills. They also do not slide down hills as easy either. Yes, you can see the lug tracks in the grass but they disappear in a short time. This is compared to my other 129 with turfs, same amount of weights but no fluid in tires.

 

[jbsmith]

Hey guys, I'm new here, was told to check this section for better exposure to my question, so here's what I got:

I was looking for some info when I came across this site. I've been driving Cub Cadets since I was 7. Currently I have two, a 10hp and a 12hp, and an engine off a 10hp. The 10hp and 12hp used to be on different chassis, but I swapped them because the 12hp's old chassis would only steer to the left. I swapped them out, drilled new engine mounting holes, and everything else pretty much lined up perfect. The 12hp I then rebuilt for pulling, and did alright, but now I just need a lawn tractor for my new house.

I'm looking at a CC 147 14hp with hydrostatic trans, roto tiller, snowthrower, plow, and 48" deck. Question is, I've never had a hydro before, they've all been 3 speed manual's. And they've always been solid as a rock. How reliable are the hydro's, as I have a 57 New Holand which is hydro with the center PTO not functioning, the rear works, but the whole thing is unreliable, nothing but problems. Am I going to encounter the same problems with the Cadet, or are they pretty solid?

Also, the one I'm looking at the guy says needs a carb cleaning and new points. Carb cleaning I can handle, but what are new points? He says it currently doesn't run. As I've swapped engines before, I don't think it'll be a big deal to get it running, but I was curious if there's anything I should keep an eye out for.

The 147 has a front power takeoff, and the hydro in the rear driven by a belt from the engine, and the hydro operates the tiller. He says it's a tine tiller, is that the tiller I'd till my garden with, or something different?

Here's one of my older ones, a 124:
image{http://simplepic.net/albums/userpics/normal_tractor_001.jpg}

And a blast from the past, a 1940's farmall:
http://serial.cc/tractor/100_1519.JPG

Mowing the lawn with that was cake, 2 passes and you were done.

 

[mcaruth]

Jay, have three with the hydro, 105,149,1450. they will do virtually anything you will ever need as trouble free as they come. they are built like a tank, even seen several hook to the pulling sled last weekend. my own preference....I would'nt trade em' for all the clutches in the world. there just that good. but these are my thoughts and experence with them, you do what you're compfortable with, me, I'm a tried and true hydro man thats all there is to it..............mike

 

[mreed]

Jay, I think most of the guys will agree that Hydros are pretty hard to tear up. A yearly fluid and filter change are all they really ask for. Points are the actuating member of the ignition system. They are located under a small cover next to the cam gear cover. Just look for the little box on the side of the engine with a wire going to it from the coil. They're not hard to change if they indeed need changing. Often they just need the contacts cleaned.

Points cover

The actual points

 

[mcaruth]

jay, its a mounted tiller like your thinking. and the points are no biggie. two screws and set the new ones. might want to check the push rod behind the points while your putting in points. you'll see it when you remove the old ones. just pull it out, put in a new one.the push rod gets wore and can cause you problems even trying to set a new pair of points, and is cheap, so I suggest put in a new one when you put in new points. one of the sponcers at the top will have both for you, and they are very inexpensive. there are lots of guys and gals on here that know about anything you can think of about a cub, of any denomination, so ask away, they are of great help, always. a good bunch of people. and one more thing, WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!....mike

 

[rpatton]

Paul D . sounds like a you sheared a pin as suspected . are you mowing with the deck in float? could have been partialy sheared and maybe a tree root or something finished it off . I have sheared them pushing snow but never mowing .

 

[agitch]

Jay, the 147 should have a driveshaft from the engine to hydro pump. no belt for the hydro

 

[bcarl]

I believe the belt driven hydro Jay is referring to is the right angle gear box to drive the rear mounted tiller.

I have gear drives (70 and 124 with creeper) and a hydro 147. I've mowed, pushed snow, thrown snow, plowed and harrowed ground (I have a 4 foot spring tooth harrow) with each. Haven't been able to get a good deal on a tiller (but I'm keeping my eyes open). If it's a cub cadet tiller, it should work good with the 147 to till your garden.

In my IMHO, I prefer the hydro for mowing and the snow thrower. I've heard hydros are great for tillers as well. Just seems to get the job done quicker.

For pushing snow and working ground I prefer the gear drives. They get more horse power to the ground as the hydros lose some through the tranny.

It all depends on how you plan to use it.

Buce

 

[jbsmith]

Thanks for the help and input guys, great info. I have a local IH Cub Cadet store that has everything I've ever needed to repair my 100, 122 and 124.

Question, Can I have the blade, mower, and tiller hooked up at the same time? I should check that cub cadet store for wheel weights and chains, somehow I got as far as I did without any. I feel much more confident about the hydrostatic drive now too. You guys are great. If this works out I'll post some pictures of my goodies.

I should go get my old 122 going again this weekend... Or at least steal the super wheels off it.

 

[jkemp]

pick up a 42 model 2 tiller for my 1650 yesterday and can't get the belt from the tiller pulley to the gearbox pulley. Is there a trick or what size should the belt be. Thanks

 

[bmoore]

Jay,
The 147 is my favorite tractor for tilling. With the electric lift, you can set the depth exactly where you want it. I do have a spring assist on mine, just to take a little strain off the lift, since that tiller is pretty heavy. The electric lift is slower than a hydraulic lift, but it beats the heck out of a manual lift, plus it's easier to adjust the depth than the other two choices. My arm still hurts when I think about using the manual lift on my 129 for ONE season a few years ago.
I would say the best way to have a blade, deck, and tiller all hooked up at the same time would be to put one on each of your tractors.

 

[jbsmith]

Ha, that's what I figured. I just thought it'd be cool to have them all hooked up at once on one tractor, as the CC's really look great loaded up. Plus my others don't have the PTO, and only support a deck at best.

 

[dfrisk]

JAY - Welcome to the forum. I worked for IH at the FARMALL Plant in Rock Island, IL back in the late '70's & early 1980's. IH used Cub Cadets all around the plant for everything from clearing sidewalks of snow, mowing grass, but the REAL test was hauling trash out of the plant. Maintenance made huge steel trailers from 1/8" & 3/16" thk steel that were four ft wide, four ft tall and eight ft long, little steel casters on the bottom and quick hitches similar to railroad couplers on each end. Those carts would get PILLED heaping full with everything from empty cardboard boxes, paper coffee cups, busted up wood pallets, YOU NAME IT! And the cleaning guys would hook two and three of those loaded carts behind a Cub Cadet and GO!

. I got to know the Maintenance dept. Manager really well during the "Big Strike" of '79 & '80 and He said they tried to use gear drive CC's for secveral years and clutches & brakes were Always wearing out under that severe duty. These tractors ran six to ten hours per day five & six days per week. They used 12 & 14 HP Hydro's for trash duty and that ended the clutch & brake problems.

That said, I actually prefer a GD for most thngs but there are some things a Hydro is just better at. Snowblowing and rototilling are where the biggest advantage is for the Hydro, mowing when Your in a hurry is next. But when under heavy draft loads like moldboard plowing, pushing snow with a blade, a GD has an advantage. A hydro can do those things but the hydro trans does get very warm sometimes. Jobs that need a specific set speed like spraying, a hydro just adds another variable to getting a correct amount of chemical on the ground. I use a GD for that.

 

[pdorow]

R Patton

I failed to say that I just removed my blade after doing some backyard grading. Looks like my rocker shaft will see mister welder once I get everything back into thier correct positions-LOL

 

[klejeune]

Jay,

There are just a couple of things that can really go wrong with a Hydro.

1, worn trunion. Like Kraig posted, where the springs ride it can wear slots and can cause the control to be jerky or not consistant movement. Check the FAQ's on how to remedy.

2, release valves. The 147 will have manual unloading valves. The buttons will rust up and not go down smoothly or not pop up all the way and allow fluid to bypass, or leak out the top. You can clean them up and get them going again, or just replace with good used ones or new ones.

3, if someone towed the tractor fast without releasing the valves it could mess up the internals. Unlikely though.

Ask the seller how long it's been since the hydro has been serviced. If it's been several years, you'll want to change the fluid and filter. Get 2 gallons of Hytran from your CaseIH dealer, a rear end cover gasket and a hydro filter. You'll only need 7qts, but just get 2 gallons. In a few years (not yearly unless you're running a hydro in a 150* coal mine) you can just change the filter and top off the fluid and be good to go for another 3 years or so. Hytran lasts a long time!

Get the 147, you'll love it. I have 2 gear drives and 2 hydros. I've not mowed with a gear drive yet, but want to set my 100 up with a deck just to try it. I'm afraid though with my small yard it will be a pain. I really like the quick movements of the hydro getting around the yard and all the crap I have laying around.

 

[dfrisk]

KEITH - I guess it's ALL in what You get used to... I find I can maneuver around stuff just as fast with a GD as a Hydro. Some jobs being able to stop or creep using the clutch with Your foot is a real advantage over having to use Your hand. I can shift gears to change directions or speed on a GD in the blink of an eye and still have two hands to control the PTO, lift the mower or whatever, steer while sitting still, and control movement & speed with the clutch. I always seem to run out of hands with a Hydro, one to steer, one to control speed & direction, another on the lift....Ohhhh Wait....I only HAVE two hands and both feet are flat on the footrests! I know many people have complained about the lack of a foot control hydro on these old CC's. I don't think they offer the precision a hand control does.

I think You'll like the 100 as a MOW tractor. The 16T 2nd is a great mowing gear. Back in the '60's when the 70 was new We mowed about 2 acres every week, BIG house yard, big barn yard, and about 1/8 mile of road bank. The 70 was short on HP for running a 38" deck IMHO but a good running K241 with that slow 2nd gear would be a REAL nice mowing machine. My 72 has the fast 19T 2nd, It has plenty of HP to mow in 2nd but I find the 38" deck doesn't do as nice a job running that fast. 16T is 3,2 mph, 19T is 3.9. 1st gear is 2.3, just a bit too slow. The fast 2nd IS a great plowing gear.
Back in 1980 I "Borrowed" Dad's CC 70 to mow my little yard in town, mower did a terrible job, the deck housing was warped, but I knew I was going to have a CC the following summer. I found the 72 in early January. It replaced an 18" push mower. My lot was 75 ft X 170 ft with lots of hedges, trees, 1200 sq. foot ranch style house & 1-stall garage, patio, big 20' X 60' concrete driveway, my little 8 ft x 16 ft shop. Took Me 20-25 minutes to mow with the push mower, and 40-45 minutes with the CC. "It's ALL about added SEAT TIME Right?"

 

[rchristensen]

Paul D. I really wouldn't recomend taking a welder to your rockshaft. Why don't you just replace the broken pin? You may need to remove the rockshaft at some future time.

 

[pdorow]

R Christensen

Well the odds havint to remove the rocker shaft are are slim verse the odds of breaking/bending another pin with--- my 1250 has hydraulic lift.

A 3/8" weld is very easy for me to just grind out.