trentschler
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2002
- Messages
- 63
- displayname
- Tom Rentschler
Kenny, I'm kind of new at this, by chance do you have a pic that you could pinpoint with? Thanks for all of your help.
-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through April 09, 2005
- Thread starter rtunison
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
mmanuel
Active member
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2003
- Messages
- 28
- displayname
- Matt "In the Heart Of Texas - HOT - " Manuel
Question on the offset plug...what's the benefit of using a "new style" head vs hacking up your tins. I ran into the same thing last fall during an engine replacement. I just used the old head and saved my tins.
kweimann
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2001
- Messages
- 210
- displayname
- Kenny Weimann
Matt,
Per Brian Millers Website:
http://members.aol.com/pullingtractor/cylhead.htm
The newest style head manufactured by Kohler is much like the previous one, but has the spark plug located directly over the exhaust valve. There are two reasons why Kohler did this:
It prevents cold-starting incoming raw fuel from fouling the spark plug.
It helps to produce more engine power and torque by retaining the majority of the combustion heat in one area.
Despite of their low compression, I believe that these are the best heads to pull with because they flow good and they have excellent heat retention. The compression ratios and mounting bolt lengths are the same as the previous head. By the way - these type of heads are still available from Kohler. They come on the Magnum engines, too.
Kenny
Per Brian Millers Website:
http://members.aol.com/pullingtractor/cylhead.htm
The newest style head manufactured by Kohler is much like the previous one, but has the spark plug located directly over the exhaust valve. There are two reasons why Kohler did this:
It prevents cold-starting incoming raw fuel from fouling the spark plug.
It helps to produce more engine power and torque by retaining the majority of the combustion heat in one area.
Despite of their low compression, I believe that these are the best heads to pull with because they flow good and they have excellent heat retention. The compression ratios and mounting bolt lengths are the same as the previous head. By the way - these type of heads are still available from Kohler. They come on the Magnum engines, too.
Kenny
Had a great time Saturday at PD9, can't wait for PD10 (PD-X??). I think I can say that some of the mods folks have discussed to work on sleeve hitch plows to eliminate trash plugging work 100%. The ONLY trash problem I had Saturday was collecting trash on mower deck lift arms, NEVER had to kick trash out of the plow or had it plug up, ran my coulter the whole time and plowed nice.
If I get some photo editing software I can post a picture of my plow, otherwise maybe someone caught some snapshots of it?
If I get some photo editing software I can post a picture of my plow, otherwise maybe someone caught some snapshots of it?
Wyatt, if you send some of your photos to me I'll get them posted.
Seeing as the discussion on this is here I better post it here. This is Wyatt's plow.
J
jmarsa
Guest
Hi there this is my first post. I hope I get everything right.
I've got a red 682 that was given to me by my father in law. He wore out the origianl motor and had a KT-17 (series 24302) put in and proceeded to wear that out. It's sound but during a tune up this spring I noticed that the bore for the points' push rod was out of round. This along with a wore out (undersize) push rod oil was coming out the bore and fouling the points. I put a new push rod and points in which has helped but I'm looking for a lower cost long term solution than replacing/rebuilding the motor. I really only use the machine about 10 hours per season. But need it to work when I do. I've got 2 ideas I wanted feedback on.
1. Bore out the push rod bore and have a guide (bushing) pressed in. This would require a partial teardown to capture the metal shavings.
2. Convert over to elecrtonic ignition using a flywheel, pick-up, coil and ingnition box from a new motor (like a Magnum 18?). The only specs I can find on my crank dia is it's 1-1/8". I don't know if it has a taper.
I'm open to any and all ideas. Just bear in mind I'm trying to keep the repair costs as low and I can find used parts online to help lower costs.
Thank you for your time.
--Jason
I've got a red 682 that was given to me by my father in law. He wore out the origianl motor and had a KT-17 (series 24302) put in and proceeded to wear that out. It's sound but during a tune up this spring I noticed that the bore for the points' push rod was out of round. This along with a wore out (undersize) push rod oil was coming out the bore and fouling the points. I put a new push rod and points in which has helped but I'm looking for a lower cost long term solution than replacing/rebuilding the motor. I really only use the machine about 10 hours per season. But need it to work when I do. I've got 2 ideas I wanted feedback on.
1. Bore out the push rod bore and have a guide (bushing) pressed in. This would require a partial teardown to capture the metal shavings.
2. Convert over to elecrtonic ignition using a flywheel, pick-up, coil and ingnition box from a new motor (like a Magnum 18?). The only specs I can find on my crank dia is it's 1-1/8". I don't know if it has a taper.
I'm open to any and all ideas. Just bear in mind I'm trying to keep the repair costs as low and I can find used parts online to help lower costs.
Thank you for your time.
--Jason
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Wyatt,
For some reason that plow set-up loks familiar????
I too, made it through the whole event with the fixed notched rolling cutter and "high clearance" frame without ever plugging the plow...ever.......including the time I cut the pile of trash that lifted Charlie's 1450 off of the ground and high centered it IN HALF as I plowed through it........
For some reason that plow set-up loks familiar????
I too, made it through the whole event with the fixed notched rolling cutter and "high clearance" frame without ever plugging the plow...ever.......including the time I cut the pile of trash that lifted Charlie's 1450 off of the ground and high centered it IN HALF as I plowed through it........
Oh yea Steve,
And lets talk about those dang 12" plows you and Big Steve were runnin too!
Where's the plow nazi when ya need him!
And lets talk about those dang 12" plows you and Big Steve were runnin too!
Where's the plow nazi when ya need him!
All kiddin aside, I don't think it would have made any dif on my part.
BUT, it is the first time I ever got hung up on trash, it gives you a sick lifting feeling, LOL
Kinda like when you get stuck in a mud hole and look around to see who's watchin!
BUT, it is the first time I ever got hung up on trash, it gives you a sick lifting feeling, LOL
Kinda like when you get stuck in a mud hole and look around to see who's watchin!
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2007
- Messages
- 14
- displayname
- Richard Essex
I am looking for a better deal on hydro filters than the $13 Cub Cadet version at my local dealership. What do the Forum members use and can someone explain the difference between an oil filter and a hydro filter? Once upon a time I read somewhere about the differences, but can't find it on the net now (note to self: Copy and Paste before leaving website).
At the automotive parts store they had two filters allegedly for CC hydros, one with a spring at the top and another without. The OEM filter does not have the spring. While I want to save some dollars where I can, I don't want to sacrifice reliability or longetivity.
Thanks in advance for the info that will follow this inquiry. I am impressed with the cumulative knowledge this group has, and their willingness to share with others.
At the automotive parts store they had two filters allegedly for CC hydros, one with a spring at the top and another without. The OEM filter does not have the spring. While I want to save some dollars where I can, I don't want to sacrifice reliability or longetivity.
Thanks in advance for the info that will follow this inquiry. I am impressed with the cumulative knowledge this group has, and their willingness to share with others.
I saw this picture and thought it was interesting (funny) how the fresh coat of paint didn't fix the fact that the hub is grooved.
How does that saying go? "If you spray perfume on a cow pie, you still have a cow pie"
How does that saying go? "If you spray perfume on a cow pie, you still have a cow pie"
rbedell
Well-known member
Richard E:
Here are some suitable Replacements for the CC #923-3014
Hydro Unit Oil Filter
Cub Cadet 923-3014
Fleetguard HF6096
Wix 51084
Purolator L14670
Baldwin B163
J*** Deere AM39653
Fram PH16
NAPA 51410
Here are some suitable Replacements for the CC #923-3014
Hydro Unit Oil Filter
Cub Cadet 923-3014
Fleetguard HF6096
Wix 51084
Purolator L14670
Baldwin B163
J*** Deere AM39653
Fram PH16
NAPA 51410
Z
zfriedman
Guest
OK I guess I'll just try and hack out a squarish chunk somehow.
BTW MATT (got your attention) per my own experience the difference between the old head and new head is only marginally noticable. Maybe it starts a little easier...maybe that was just a fresh battery. Likely runs cleaner too.
Of course the pullers will likely know just how much of a difference it really makes.
The only reason I switched was because the old head had cracked fins and I stripped the spark plug threads.
Thanks guys,
Zack
BTW MATT (got your attention) per my own experience the difference between the old head and new head is only marginally noticable. Maybe it starts a little easier...maybe that was just a fresh battery. Likely runs cleaner too.
Of course the pullers will likely know just how much of a difference it really makes.
The only reason I switched was because the old head had cracked fins and I stripped the spark plug threads.
Thanks guys,
Zack
Thanks for all the kind comments on the Ferrari guys. I certainly know it's not a Cub but it's just a phase I'm in. It was sure nice to see the usual suspects and thanks to Travis for letting us play on his land again. I can't believe what a big deal this is all getting to be,very cool! Also thanks to the buyers and sellers and especially Art for letting me take all his money. We'll do it again soon.
stanner
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2002
- Messages
- 1,349
- displayname
- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Richard E, Roland,
From personal experience, the Fram PH16 is NOT a repacement for a cub cadet part. The fram unit has an anti drainback valve and is meant for a pressure side application, not a suction side such as a hydro. Using one will render your cub useless when it is cold out. JMHEO...
From personal experience, the Fram PH16 is NOT a repacement for a cub cadet part. The fram unit has an anti drainback valve and is meant for a pressure side application, not a suction side such as a hydro. Using one will render your cub useless when it is cold out. JMHEO...
