Archive through April 06, 2006

[till]

I guess everyone is recovering form Plowday.

Man, Platinum plugs are da bomb!!

Stinky has never run so good. Thanks again to Travis and all for the help!!!! Now back to the mundane life of mowing....

 

[lbuttke]

Tedd,
I think it is from all the fresh air.
After being couped up all winter, getting out into the fresh air for such a long time shocks the body and it takes a few days to recover.

That or its all the vibration from the sterring wheels, causeing the fingers to cramp up and render them useless for typeing on the key board.

 

[cjackson]

I think I broke my 149.

Monday, I changed the mule drive on my 149 from the old worn out one the a much better less old one. When I went to reinstall the deck I had to force the carriage into the down postion. When I tried to lower the carriage to reinstall the deck it would not lower when I pushed the lift lever. I pushed on the lift arm on the outside of the frame. Initially, it had a lot of spring tension on it. The last time I pushed on it it moved easily to the forward postion. When I did push on it, I also held the lift lever in the "down" position with the tractor running. The last time I pushed, the lift arm went easily all the way forward and the carriage was down. Great, right??????? Wrong!!!!!!!! After attaching the deck, the deck would not lift. Regardless of which way I move the lift lever, the deck pushes down. The lift cylinder is all the way out and will retract. It only pushes out.

What have I done??????? How do I fix it??????????

 

[lbuttke]

Chuck,
Sounds to me you might have sheared a pin in the rocker arm, but I am only guessing as I do not own a 149.
I would look through the arcives here to see if there is some mention of this happening to some one else. The search feature at the top of this page should help in your search.

(Message edited by lbuttke on April 11, 2006)

 

[krandall]

Anthony...The show and swap is called Winter Tractor and Engine Show....It was March 18,19 and 20th...Was a great show...Next year it will be March 16,17,18th 2007...But the featured tractor is <font color="119911">Green</font>

I live 10 miles west of South Bend Indiana and have a bunch of fliers for area shows...Drop me a e-mail and I'll fill you in.....Kurt

 

[cjackson]

Lonny,

I considered this but I have know significant movement anywhere. Obvioiusly not the deck but when I remove the cover and look at the lift cylinder, not even the lift cylinder moves. What little bit of movement it does make, it seems to be pushing out or attempting to lower the deck.

 

[digger]

Chuck J,
Have you by any chance checked the lift handle lever attaching point under the dash that attaches to the valve body?
I have a 149 that had the pin hole wollered out a while back and was doing the same thing yours is now. Just a thought.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Chuck, I think Charlie has it figured out. Check the "connector link" between the hydraulic lift control lever and control valve. Here is a photo of the control valve from the service manual. You may have to remove the gas tank to get to this area under the dash.

 

[sheckert]

I think I have a front PTO clutch problem. I have a Cadet 125 I got from my father which sat idle for almost 10 yrs. The main problem was the " button " to engage the front clutch was missing. My father got the parts, they were a composite type material. When I got the tractor running last summer I installed a new one. However this winter ( first snow ) when I engaged the front clutch about 4 or 5 seconds later the thower stopped and the button was gone. OK, I figured may be I messed it up on install. Got the second one out put it in and within 4 or 5 seconds, it too joined his brother. Then I ordered a bronze one from CC Specialist. That worked however the thower turned very slow. So I tightned up the linkage for the button and that made a lot of vibration up front and from somewhere sparks flew and that bronze wear button got very hot. I think the real problem is the clutch needs to be rebuit. I am posting this just to be sure. If so, how hard of a job is it. I fix airplanes not lawn mowers, so I'm pretty sure I can figure it out, but is it worth it to do it my self or just get a rebuilt one? Thank you to all who can help me.

 

[kfass]

I have excessive play in the steering box on my 107. Do I need a bearing separator to pull the steering wheel?

 

[digger]

Ken F,
First spray the bejeezes out of it with PB Blaster or Kroil and let it set for a day or two, then go to your local hardware store or check one of the sponsors above and buy 5/8" fine thread nut and bolt about 3 to 4 inches long, remove steering wheel nut and place new nut on covering about half of the threads on steering shaft, screw the bolt down inside the nut so it's tight, sit on the tractor seat with a hammer, place your knees under the outer part of the wheel and push up against the wheel with yer knees and hit the head of the bolt squarely, may take a few blows to get the wheel to move. Don't place the new nut tight against the wheel leave a little room (a few threads 2to3 ). It will come off!
Or you can use the nut and a 5/16" carriage bolt inside the nut with the nut screwed down on the shaft with one or two threads showing and do the same basic thing.

 

[digger]

Scott H,
They are not hard to rebuild.
http://cubfaq.com/mechanical_pto.html

 

[kmcconaughey]

Scott, here's a link to some PTO INFO

Ken, here's a link to the FAQ on how to remove the steering wheel

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, you're too fast this morning. I shouldn't have taken time to drink that cup of coffee. )

 

[kfass]

Thanks. I already had tried a puller - and bent the plastic on the back-side. I knew you guys would have the answer.

When I get the steering box out, is there anything to be aware of when I dis-assemble it? Any parts gonna fly out?

 

[digger]

Ken F,
You might want to take a peek at the FAQ's here and also http://cubfaq.com/questions.html
It might save you some time beatin the keys.

Ken,
If they fly out, just pick'um up.

(Message edited by cproctor on April 12, 2006)

 

[kfass]

I did check the FAQ file, but there is nothing listed for a narrow-frame steering box...?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ken, check FAQ entry #16. Or the same info is on the Cubfaq site under entry #18a.

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on April 12, 2006)

 

[kfass]

FAQ entry #16 is "What are the Kohler Engine Torque Specifications" (??)

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ken, there are two (2) FAQs. There is the one that has a link on this page, scroll up this page, see it just under the "shirts shirts shirts shirts" link? Then there is the "cubfaq.com" version that has no link except for the couple that Charlie and I recently posted.