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Archive through April 05, 2017

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Digger
Here's some info that Paul B. posted back in 2007 on another site.
The IH 901 white was used from the beginning to serial number 218009 (Nov 67), and then 902 white was used to serial number 375938 (Feb 71) and then 935 white until the end. The yellow was 483 Federal Yellow with a period where 483B was used, then back to the 483. To my knowledge the 483B is not available from anyone. The 3 whites are hard to tell apart unless you see them all together. 901 has a green tint, 902 a gray tint, and 935 has a cream tint, but when the original color faded after a few years, they all look the same. A mistake some people make when repainting is to try and match the faded white color they see, but that is not what it originally looked like. You can see the original color of the white on the inside of the hood, or the wheels (the part the tire covers) sometime if it isn't too rusty, or some other are that has not been exposed to sunlight.

The 901 and 902 whites are only available from the auto paint stores as far as I know, although I have been told that a match may be available from International Truck dealers. The IH white that you find at Case IH, TSC, or other places that sell "tractor" paint, is supposedly a match for 935 white.
 
Charlie,

If I go to an auto paint store and ask for IH 901 white, they could match it up for me?
 
Marty G. Charlie's correct with about matching paints. Unless you can find a paint store that has been in business for many years and they have saved back paint code charts/mix information then matching original paint is hard. In the late 70s I was fortunate to have a paint store in Savanna, Illinois that had contacts that had kept the paint codes/mix info back into the early 1900s. Through them I was able to obtain an exact match for the F Series FARMALL Tractor Gray paint. Unfortunately the couple that owned that store is no longer with us. Those stores are out there as with all the information. Finding them is getting very hard.
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Marty
The ppg 8665 is a very good match for 901.
My brother used it on his 100.
Here is a pic of his 100 on my #5 trailer

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I am having some mixed for the 104 tomorrow at NAPA.

The last quart I had mixed was last year for the 126 restore and I was pleased w/the results. IIRC it was about $33

You may have seen it on display if you were at Bluniers last fall when we were there.

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Hi guys
Awhile back I posted about my 1650 breaking down. I finally finished putting it back together and she runs like a champ. Big thank you to everyone who help me. Thanks again Mike Frade.
thanks
Ed
 
Ok gang 1450 update,pulled the lower end apart on my first motor....total junk the connection rod grenaded and took out the piston skirt moving on to the second motor to see what's up with that one
 
Ethan - sorry to hear that about the first engine. You said it took out part of the "piston" skirt. Do you mean the bottom of the cylinder wall? Sometimes if it's not to bad you can still rebuild. I don't know how much is to much but pics would certainly help others on here to advise you unless you've already had your friends check it out. It's not infrequent for that to occur.
 
Harry-yes sir the piston skirt is the inch/inch and a half extension of the cylinder wall down into the crank case that's not normally a huge deal,but the crank shaft is gouged badly.It seems to me that P/O ran this motor with no oil in it .One of my customers at work that I deal with has a machine shop I'm considering purchasing a new crank along a ring and piston kit and machining this motor.I believe though at this point I'll salvage the good components the,carb,starter,head etc off of it and just move on to the other motor....if that one junk to well guess I'm screwed
 
Ethan-
The piston skirt is the lower part of the piston.
Maybe I'm just misreading it but I read it 3 times..
 
Ethan - I tried to upload your pics but couldn't resize them small enough (think I've heard that here before). I couldn't see the "cylinder wall/skirt" in either pic. It also looked like you had a broken balance gear but there aren't supposed to be balance gears in the Kohler AQS used in a 1450. Maybe I'm not viewing it correct.
 
Ethan's pics trying again. Isn't that a broken balance gear in the top pic?
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Harry look at the left side of the casting line (top left of the cylinder in the crank picture there's a half moon shaped piece of the cylinder skirt missing.I found the piece,it's in the picture of the shattered connecting rod on the paper towel in the top right.From what I see the balance gear is intact that's not a good shot of it through
 
Harry an extra thought I didn't find any gear bits in the remnants of the sludge that once was oiled think if the gear is broken in half as Iit appears then I would have found some teeth in with the connecting rod pieces
 
Ethan - I just looked at the balance gears from my 169 and I see now each one has a full 180degree gear and 2 half or 90 degree gears (hope that makes sense). So, your balance gear is apparently intact. It still doesn't answer my question why your engine has balance gears. I'm assuming your engine has a shoulder mounted dipstick (mounted on the side of the block next to the starter) and doesn't have the dipstick that goes thru the top on the block (on the starter side) since if it went thru the top of the block it would hit the balance gears.

I also looked at both pics again and I still can't really see your cylinder wall. I do see that chip laying on your paper towel upper right corner and if that's all the bigger it is I think you have a good chance to re-use your block, BUT don't take my word for it. You need some of the experts on her and your own friends to check it.

We need better pics of your cylinder wall so we can see where the chip is from.
 
His engine has balance gears because at least some of the QLs came with them. The dipstick is on top, but IIRC it is mounted to the side of the engine instead of the through a tapped hole in the block like the NF tractors that had the dipstick on top.

If the chunk out of the cylinder skirt doesn't have cracks radiating out of it, the edge can be ground smooth and it'll probably be fine. Good time to remove the balance gears, though...
 

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