Brake has been dragging on the 147 and today was nice enough to work on it. Since she was still set up for winter work, this meant removal of the chains, weights, then wheels. After I looked into the adjustment and discovering that wasn't the issue, I learned how to disassemble the brakes to lube them up, stretch the springs a bit, and now they are good and working again. When I reassembled everything, the brake dragging was gone, but now I've got to work on the neutral adjustment and it's got a more pronounced trunnion jerk. It's ok though, who needs brakes with a hydro?
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Archive through April 05, 2014
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sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Spent the better part of the afternoon switching the fleet to Dave Kirk's Mobile 1 10W-30 synthetic oil recommendation.
Oil and filter in 2ea. 18hp Mags, 20hp Mag, Kawasaki 18hp liquid cooled and oil in Briggs 16hp, and a 5.5 hp Honda push mower........went through most of two 5qt. jugs, 8+ qts.
One of the 18hp Mags uses a little oil....it will be interesting to see if oil consumption changes any with the "lighter", but synthetic oil.
I spent $3 at Wal-Mart to buy a 2 qt plastic pitcher (the kind you make orange juice in) and a $2 funnel....best $5 I've spent in along time. Made portioning out 1.5 qts to the engines easy with the volume marks on the side and the pour spout....especially from the 5qt. jugs. Nice thing is the lid keeps the pitcher clean and dust free between uses and also holds a small funnel out of the dust and dirt of the shop.
Good news is the whole fleet is ready for summer work......now that it's FINALLY acting like Spring!!!!!
Just wish I would have thought to take a pic of the whole fleet in the "lube bay".....
Oil and filter in 2ea. 18hp Mags, 20hp Mag, Kawasaki 18hp liquid cooled and oil in Briggs 16hp, and a 5.5 hp Honda push mower........went through most of two 5qt. jugs, 8+ qts.
One of the 18hp Mags uses a little oil....it will be interesting to see if oil consumption changes any with the "lighter", but synthetic oil.
I spent $3 at Wal-Mart to buy a 2 qt plastic pitcher (the kind you make orange juice in) and a $2 funnel....best $5 I've spent in along time. Made portioning out 1.5 qts to the engines easy with the volume marks on the side and the pour spout....especially from the 5qt. jugs. Nice thing is the lid keeps the pitcher clean and dust free between uses and also holds a small funnel out of the dust and dirt of the shop.
Good news is the whole fleet is ready for summer work......now that it's FINALLY acting like Spring!!!!!
Just wish I would have thought to take a pic of the whole fleet in the "lube bay".....
hydroharry
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- Jul 22, 2007
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- Harry Bursell
Frank - yes the 147 as well as all the other tractors in the 1x6/7 series (including the 73)requires that extra frame bracket in order to mount the cast iron lever for the 3-point sleeve hitch. None of the other NF require it.
I'll probably revisit the brake issue on the 147 in the future, but after 3 hrs. of bending over in the garage yesterday, my back had enough. Thankfully I rarely use it on hilly terrain- my yard is pretty flat. Maybe I need new pads: how thick are they supposed to be? Thanks
J
jclazar
Guest
Daniel, Sounds like to me, that all the pivot points of brake controls could use disassembled, lightly sanded, lubricated with anti-seize, and reassembled? Probably would not hurt the brake components to stand going through a wire wheel, painted, and reassembled the next day. With the winter season on its way out, removing your traction and weight set up don't seem so bad of an idea? I have noticed on my 1250 with external brakes those various places. In fact, I need to pull the whole transmission and give it the go-through.
Well, I should be in church this morning. A nice high pressure weather system brought about a nice sunny morning today, and I need to get caught up out in the IH Cub Cadet Shop!
Well, I should be in church this morning. A nice high pressure weather system brought about a nice sunny morning today, and I need to get caught up out in the IH Cub Cadet Shop!
Recently purchased a 108, ser# looks like 2050043u455567 My research seems to make this a 102. What do I have? Any visual clues to tell me what model it is?
Also looking for a pic/diagram of the drive clutch assy.
And lastly for now is can anyone tell me if it can be swapped over to the electric pto clutch?
Thanks for any info.
Also looking for a pic/diagram of the drive clutch assy.
And lastly for now is can anyone tell me if it can be swapped over to the electric pto clutch?
Thanks for any info.
Welcome John, this is a great site, there's guys that know a lot more about these cubs than I do, but according to my research your cub is a 1970 or 71, 102 were built earlier, they had a narrower frame and a white vinyl seat with no back, they had small square fenders, if it's a 108 it should have wider fenders, the foot rest are part of the fender.
If you were to install an electric clutch you would have to deal with the starter generator, I never seen it done but I sure would be interested if someone did it, I think you would have to replace the engine. Hope this helps
If you were to install an electric clutch you would have to deal with the starter generator, I never seen it done but I sure would be interested if someone did it, I think you would have to replace the engine. Hope this helps
- Joined
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- Binder 1650
John L. - FAQ #97, if I read it correctly, indicated you have a 108.
You should have a one piece rear fender/foot pan, also a removable cover on the tunnel between the seat and steering tower and I believe the PTO lever is on the left side as setting on the seat.
Just curious why you want to change the PTO from manual to electric? The PTO on my 109 is hopelessly in need of a rebuild, but one on my 126 works great. Haven't tried the electric one on my 1650 - yet. I kind of like to feather on the PTO, which the manual one affords. OTOH, I feel the electric PTO is a simpler mechanism and from what I have read, with respect to the IH electric ones, they are easy to adjust and are very reliable.
IMHO - the 108 is a very fine IHCC and lends itself well to a 12 or 14 hp upgrade nicely.
There is a great manual section on this forum, you can download all the operators and service manuals and they will have illustrations for most everything you need.
You should have a one piece rear fender/foot pan, also a removable cover on the tunnel between the seat and steering tower and I believe the PTO lever is on the left side as setting on the seat.
Just curious why you want to change the PTO from manual to electric? The PTO on my 109 is hopelessly in need of a rebuild, but one on my 126 works great. Haven't tried the electric one on my 1650 - yet. I kind of like to feather on the PTO, which the manual one affords. OTOH, I feel the electric PTO is a simpler mechanism and from what I have read, with respect to the IH electric ones, they are easy to adjust and are very reliable.
IMHO - the 108 is a very fine IHCC and lends itself well to a 12 or 14 hp upgrade nicely.
There is a great manual section on this forum, you can download all the operators and service manuals and they will have illustrations for most everything you need.
hydroharry
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- Jul 22, 2007
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- Harry Bursell
Rick - that's a nice "148". I think ole Tommy H has at least one too.
FAQ #97, if I read it correctly, indicated you have a 108
What is faq #97?
Yes it does have a one piece fender/floorboards. Faded but visible 108 on the sides. Has a 10hp engine also. Somewhere in its past life and operator needed lessons. rear fenders and serial plate are really banged up. almost all damage to the tractor appears to be from backing into stuff. Engine is fresh rebuild. it has a 48" deck. needs paint, a batt, tires are dry rotted bad, pto clutch is shot, a seat, and an air filter. rest of it just needs cleaning and painting.
Where is the best place to get correct replacement and maint parts?
Sorry this is my first non riding lawnmower.
What is faq #97?
Yes it does have a one piece fender/floorboards. Faded but visible 108 on the sides. Has a 10hp engine also. Somewhere in its past life and operator needed lessons. rear fenders and serial plate are really banged up. almost all damage to the tractor appears to be from backing into stuff. Engine is fresh rebuild. it has a 48" deck. needs paint, a batt, tires are dry rotted bad, pto clutch is shot, a seat, and an air filter. rest of it just needs cleaning and painting.
Where is the best place to get correct replacement and maint parts?
Sorry this is my first non riding lawnmower.
fcurrier
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- Jul 5, 2004
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
John L. from West (by God) Virginia:
FAQ #97 is from pretty close to the top of this page -- FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS.
For What it's Worth, in the past few days there's been several "Newbies" (I dislike that term) come by with questions that I'm afraid some of us that "seem to know it all" don't answer.
Top of my list in "Cub Cadet 101" class is that for the most part with the pre-1981 Cubs an odd number (109) designates a Hydro drive and an even number (108) is a gear drive. The first 2 numbers tell the horsepower and the final number is hydro/gear.
I write this because I myself take some things for granted, then I look back 15 years and recognize that I was "new blood" then and every day I come here I learn something new (or get a new idea).
Welcome, and don't be a stranger.
FAQ #97 is from pretty close to the top of this page -- FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS.
For What it's Worth, in the past few days there's been several "Newbies" (I dislike that term) come by with questions that I'm afraid some of us that "seem to know it all" don't answer.
Top of my list in "Cub Cadet 101" class is that for the most part with the pre-1981 Cubs an odd number (109) designates a Hydro drive and an even number (108) is a gear drive. The first 2 numbers tell the horsepower and the final number is hydro/gear.
I write this because I myself take some things for granted, then I look back 15 years and recognize that I was "new blood" then and every day I come here I learn something new (or get a new idea).
Welcome, and don't be a stranger.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
John L - at the top of the page you'll see some red writing that says Please Check the Frequently Asked Questions... Click on the words FAQ and it will take you to the common ones. When you're on the page with the list there is a link to Charlies' FAQ's which is where #97 is listed. Here's a link in case.
http://cubfaq.com/questions.html
Read thru the FAQs and you'll find out alot of helpful info about your unit.
As for finding parts, there are several sponsors listed in the colorful boxes at the top of this page. CC Specialties had a fire but is coming back to life. You currently have to look for the Red Thump's Up to determine if those parts are available. Also, you can check the classifieds on here. Of course you always have ePain as a source but you need to realy know what you're looking for and it's risky. There are some other sources as well but I see you're in WVA and I don't know anyone in that state.
Frank C - learn something new everyday or at least a new idea. Come on now - I know you can't teach an ole dog new tricks.
http://cubfaq.com/questions.html
Read thru the FAQs and you'll find out alot of helpful info about your unit.
As for finding parts, there are several sponsors listed in the colorful boxes at the top of this page. CC Specialties had a fire but is coming back to life. You currently have to look for the Red Thump's Up to determine if those parts are available. Also, you can check the classifieds on here. Of course you always have ePain as a source but you need to realy know what you're looking for and it's risky. There are some other sources as well but I see you're in WVA and I don't know anyone in that state.
Frank C - learn something new everyday or at least a new idea. Come on now - I know you can't teach an ole dog new tricks.
