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Archive through April 05, 2010

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kmcconaughey

Keeper of the Photos
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Kraig McConaughey
KENtucky,
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Lucas, glad you figured out the wheel offset.

Marty, awesome job on your 70!
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Hope everyone had a Happy Easter.
 
Denny, Frank C.
The Kohler Master Parts Manual does not give a simple answer (such as above a certain Spec number or S/N) as to what engines have valve rotators. What it does do is, when you look under the Spec number for a given engine model, and look under the Parts Group Number for the part you are looking for (for Camshaft and Valves it is group #4) it will give you a variation number that is used for the cam & valve parts used in that engine. If that variation number is listed for any of the parts in that group, the part is used in that engine. There may be multiple listings for a part, but only the listing that has "your" variation number is applicable to "your" engine. Clear as mud????? I guess Denny gave the correct simple answer,...... some do, some don't.
 
PAUL - Thanks for the info about spec & variation numbers. Local Kohler parts house in town closed two years ago...guess I should have made them an offer on their Kohler manuals instead of buying my dump cart!

FRANK C. - I wouldn't really worry about whether your engine has valve rotators or not. Lots of debate among engine builders whether they help or not. I think using the Good Stellite valves is much more impartant than rotators on "working" tractor engines.

KENDELL - re: ratcheting heads on click stop torque wrenches & loosening fasteners..... Somehow I knew You'd ask that question! My Buddy who was a HD truck mechanic for many years, and a "Tool-a-Holic" like me, told Me that when SON & I borrowed his Snap-On torque wrench for replacing the heads on the 5.0L Mustang. Plus I've read it someplace also.

I guess it's one of those "Things We do" without thinking like always placing car batteries on wood instead of setting them on concrete, I also do that with gas cans, seems to help with condensation in my unheated shop.

I have MANY MANY other ways of loosening nuts & bolts so I don't need to use my $100 Digitork torque wrench except to tighten stuff. I actually use my 3/8" bending beam Craftsman torque wrench much more than my big one.
 
Ok, bad news. On finishing up the KT there were two cork 1/8 thick seals left over. they are about the size of the pto end oil seal but with a larger center. Cannot find a listing for the use in the Kohlor book????? Any ideas? Leftover parts really bug me!
 
Dennis:
My torque wrenches are pre-digital (although I do grab 'em with my fingers
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). I know what you mean about "old mechanic's tales" though - I always store batteries on wood, also. (Hmmmm - kinda like balance gears......)
 
On a Quietline model tractor, can anyone tell/show me how to install the springs (IH402344) that hold the front bail clip for the quick attach in the up position? The parts lookup calls it a Hitch Assembly(IH544170) I purchased the springs, but it is not obvious to me how they install and hold the quick attach bail clip in the up position.
 
Rob, I forget who took these photos but this is how they go in. First you need to remove the lever, then they just slide up in.

187721.jpg


Note that in the photo above, one clip was hot glued in place on the outside to illustrate the orientation of the clip.

187722.jpg
 
Kraig,

Thanks a million. I studied the issue for at least 3 beers worth on Saturday and could not figure it out. What is the old saying about engineers, sometimes we see the tree but miss seeing the forest!

Now I can complete getting my 1450 together for attaching the tiller.
 
Another issue that I ran into (but solved myself this weekend) was installing the lift bar for the rear lift. I could not get the 2 holes for plate assembly to line up with the lift arm on the rockshaft. I could get one or the other to line up but not both simultaneously. Struggled with that one for a while, until I noticed that the Spirol Pin protruded to far up. A few taps with a hammer and punch and bingo, plate lined right up.
 
RE. click torque wrench

one instance i would not use a click stop for loosening bolts is when they are old or rusted. at work on saturday i had to take the bumper off my new model AA ford frame, it took a 3/4 cheater bar and a cut-off model A front axle wishbone as extra leverage. even heating with the mapgas torch they didnt really want to move. i would be afraid to use a click stop because the head would snap off( another name for snap-on mabey? lol) with that much torque.
 
JERRY - Not sure about Kohler's KT engine gasket lits but on the old K-series you only use about HALF the supplied gaskets. Sounds like your extra gaskets would make nice "Coasters" for beverage cans that are sweating.

KENDELL - We used to have a couple small 1/4" drive S-O torque wrenches at work, used to confirm screw torque settings for setting pnuematic screw guns. Can you imagine trying to torque #8-32 screws into threaded .060" thk. zinc-dichromate plated carbon steel? You get about ONE good thread, 4 in-lbs is "loose", 5 in-lbs is "spec." and 6 in-lbs strips the threads!

KRAIG - Most Engineers I know would flip that CC onto it's side to "inspect" it. Didn't Hank Will print that pic in his book?
 
Denny, I doubt he used that edited version. He may have used this version from the 1972 Parts and Accessories Catalog.

187731.jpg
 
KRAIG - the pic I was thinking of was I think an #86 sitting on it's side!
 
Jerry - Ferd Kohler K301s have a larger crank , might be a universal kit , hence the extra parts.
 
Denny, ah! You mean this one? If so, it's actually a Quiet Line.

187733.jpg
 
KRAIG - At least I knew it was a WF.

KEN - Jerry's working on a KT17, I mentioned the K-series kits. And the crankshaft seals are all the same on them, the crank stub necks down right outside of the seals on the K241/301/321/341. I'm not sure about the K161/181, and it's too hot outside to walk out to the shop and look!

I think I've got a shoebox full of NOS gaskets that don't fit anything!
 
Dennis _ I was wondering who was going to be the first to pop up and make me type this ...

I know that Jerry is working on a KT not a K but my point was that different companies make different request on their specs so a rebuild kit may be made up of different size seals , gaskets , bolts ect... to fill all the needs of an engine kit.
 
Does anyone have a picture of a subframe for a 109 they can post? Thanks!
 

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