Archive through April 05, 2007

[kmcconaughey]

Ryan W., if you have Fleet Farm stores in our area they sell that stuff that Lonny was referring to. It is available in different diameters as a gasket material for sealing around wood stove doors. should only be a few $$ for a roll of it. Some around here have used it on the fuel tank mounting brackets/bands to cushion the tank on their Cub Cadet.

 

[kweaver]

Brian - Ya need this bracket as on my 122.

Here is my cordless drill hydro driveshaft.

 

[mbounds]

Kraig: He'll have to come up with something other than that material. I have some and use it on the fuel tank mounts, but I guarantee you will never get it between the manifold elbow and the mufflet inlet. Waaay Toooo thick....

Myron B

 

[kmcconaughey]

Myron, yes it is way to thick to use like teflon pipe joint tape, I believe Ryan was saying he would wrap it around the outside and clamp it on.

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

I think I take your suggestion and look at a fireplace dealer or furnace dealer for a small piece of fireproof matting that I could clamp in between the tube and muffler to act as a gasket.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[kmcconaughey]

Perhaps some refractory cement would work? On second thought, it probably wouldn't hold up to the vibration. However it might be worth a try....

 

[kweaver]

Kraig - you're slippin again ... he said "in between" pipe and muffler, not over.

I think you need a PD VACATION !!!!!!!!

Refractory cement would vibrate to dust. Need something pliable.

 

[bbranstetter]

Kraig,

Gottcha. Haven't had enough coffee yet.

 

[kmcconaughey]

KENtucky, like Brian, I've not had enough coffee yet.

I think the gasket material could be used over the joint and the muffler clamp could be spread over it and clamped on. One would just have to move the clamp so it was centered on the edge of the muffler flange.

And yes I could use a vacation, ummmm is that PD as in Plow Day or PD as in PaiD?

 

[digger]

I've always had good luck with Permatex red muffler sealer in a tube. You have to let it cure for a day or two before firing the engine though.

 

[kweaver]

Oh no Kraig you got me all wrong ... that's PD as in POLICE DEPARTMENT ! Ya need locked up for your own saftey.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ah, a vacation at the Police Department, no thanks!

 

[dfrisk]

You look at Kraig's picture of the exh. elbow and the muffler inlet and notice the style of clamp.... IH ALWAYS used that same style of clamp and they ALWAYS cause the same raised bump on the inlet tube which leaks. Only solution is to make sure the inlet tube is absolutely as far over the elbow as possible even if You have to "Modify" the inlet to make it happen. On My old FARMALL's they both have about two feet of 2-1/2" x .065" wall 304 polished stainless steel pipe slid over the exhaust pipe. No clamp but the 2" black iron exh. pipe sticks up into them about 8 to 10" and they don't leak. If I was running the M plowing or discing 10-12 hours a day I wouldn't run a straight pipe but for the hour or two a year it runs it's fine. The Super H doesn't have NEAR the bark that old M has. There's 100 cubic inches and about 20-25 HP difference between them.

 

[kide]

Charlie:
"But I will say one thing, the reading is very interesting this morning on various other sites."
OK - any hints?? Something to do with ripoffs, perhaps??
BTW -I apologise for the current weather in the Midwest - took the QA-42a off the 129 last weekend and hooked up the " utility " well so I could pressure wash it and the other lawn equipment. It's about 30 out now, with flurries....

 

[rwilke]

Thanks for all the input, Fellas!

Charlie P.,
I will try to locate some of the "Permatex red muffler sealer in a tube" stuff you suggested.
If I can locate some locally, I'll smear a good fingerfull of it around the tube end then slip the muffler back on & clamp it, wait 24hrs and go from there.
Thanks again everyone!
Ryan W

 

[digger]

Ryan W.
I'm sure there's better stuff out there now days. That's what my dad used and it kinda hung on over the years.

 

[bcorn]

How about a piece of boiler door rope? Hummm might know where some of that is!!

Pops

 

[csanderson]

By now everybody should be on their way to plow day. You guys have a lot of fun!
Hope Myron,or someone that can follow this is still around, though. My K161 finally made it to the mach. shop today, along with a copy of the Kohoer eng. man. spec.s Good news, the engine is still good on the .020 overbore. Weird news is the mic. didn't get the readings that the factory spec sheet showed. Mechinest had a different book that kept us out of trouble, but it brought up a question . If this engine is from before kohler changed the hp. on these little engines, if I understand it, by enlarging the bore, can this older block take more than a .030 overbore? This engine is on a Cub Cadet from Apr. 1960, and if I'm right, engine is still original one. Sorry for the long post.

 

[kcombs]

Muffler leaks:
I tried this out and it seems to work ok. I loosened and rotated the clamp so that the bulge under the bolt was covered by tha flat part of hte clamp. Then heated the bulge red hot with the torch, quickly tightened the clamp with an impact wrench. Let it cool and repeated about 3-4 timess as new bulges appeared when the clamp was retightened. After several repetitions, the muffler was shrunk enough to tightly seal. Don't know if it will stay, but so far so good.

 

[gcoleman]

Hey Fellas, I jes got me these lights for my fenders, but what type of flasher should I use to make em flash at the flip of a switch?

 

[kmoe]

Just keep flipping the switch.

You could wire in an automotive hazard flasher if your finger gets tired.