Archive through April 02, 2008

[mgonitzke]

Tim D.-

I'll take a guess and say the carb and or gas tank are full of crap. Time to break out the carb cleaner and a carb kit. How old is the gas in it?

 

[tkeefe]

Tim D. How long does it run before it dies? I would agree with Matt, carb kit for starters, check condition of plug also. Had same problem with my K-241, takes a while for old gas (syrup) to work its way through the system.

 

[bchalk]

anyone have specs on the crankshaft af a 129 w/a k301? need to take it to a machine shop here and see if they can clean it up.

 

[digger]

Brad C.
Click the FAQ link above, scroll down to where it says, Where do I get manuals. Click that and you will see a link to download the Kohler Manual for Free!

 

[charrin]

I dont post much, but what an awesome site this is...
Spring blade sharpening time has arrived! I got a bit of a surprise when I checked underneath my 44A deck this year, however. The baffles for the blades is missing entirely! Not a trace...My parents use this machine, and have no knowledge of any loud clunking or grinding sounds last season...I flipped through the sponser sites linked at the top, in hopes of finding a pre-fabbed replacement baffle set that I could weld in. I must be unique.. I flipped through the archives and couldnt find anyone else that had encountered this problem!!

 

[tsdeese]

thanks for the info guys it just runs a few seconds before cutting off also when i bought the tractor the tank and sediment bowl was dry as a bone.

 

[mbounds]

Tim D: remove the carb, disassemble, soak ALL parts 24 hours in a good brand carb cleaner, check the loong needle and make sure it's clear. If that looong needle (which is hollow) is plugged up, the engine will only sputter and quit. Do NOT use anything mechanical to clean the needle tube. After the 24-hr soak, I use spritz can carb cleaner from Wal-Mart to blow out the tube. Using a Kohler Carb repair kit, reassemble according to the Service Manual.

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[mgonitzke]

Craig H.-

That is EXTREMELY common. I think I've had to re-do baffles on 3 decks. I have some tools that I use to figure out where the new ones should go, and you just get some 1.5" x 1/8" steel and carefully bend new ones and weld them in. What I did was remove all the spindles and everything from the deck, wire-wheel all the rust off, and then bolt a little piece of plywood in the center of the spindle hole, mark the center of that, and then use a big compass to draw the radii of the original baffles. Usually, there's some tiny little remnant of the baffles left so you can measure the radius. Where they interesect is where you want them to stop. Then just bend your metal to fit and weld in. It's pretty early in the morning, so if this doesn't make sense, ask me to clarify.

 

[jbliler]

Was the frame to tranny mounting boltpoints just a weak point or has my Original just lead a really hard life? Have it striped to the frame and found another crack at the left upper bolthole. Could not see it through all the rust before. Now I have tosand off new paint to repair it. Aleady has had angle iron welded into all six boltareas years ago. This is all Keith's falt anyway--- he shamed me into fixing it! Don't know what i will do without the oil leaks and all thte rust now.

 

[kmcconaughey]