Archive through April 02, 2006

[rmunday]

Tom H - no I didn't think to bring a camera, had forgotten about the tractor until Mike asked me if I wanted to see the "Drool Machine"

My jaw about hit the floor. Honestly I thought Tom P. did some good work but Mike blows him out of the water.

 

[digger]

Matt H,
So your saying to install solid engine mounts?

Tsk Tsk Tsk!

 

[jgeorg]

Matt, the new mounts are much more dense than the old ones. I can't see where they will dampen vibration much. Might as well have solid mounts in it.

I just can't believe this can be right. I would assume there should be some space between the shroud and engine.
John

 

[mhunt]

john, (revised) The cub mounts are made from 1 1/2 round stock, 11/16 tall, the base being 1/2, the balance go's inside the cubs motor mount. (I drilled mine motor mounts to 1 inch) with a 3/8 hole. These motors have balace gears just like the older models, vibration is not a problem to me. The cubs build prior to these are all solid mounted. I tryed to get a good photo, but here ya go. matt

 

[jgeorg]

Thanks for the info Matt, so the cradle should be 1/2" above the frame where the mounts go. I measure 9/16", that ain't a problem. The engine didn't grow taller on me, and you can't mount the shroud wrong, so this is the way it is, I guess.

 

[mfisher]

I'm trying to start my 149 after nearly 2 years. I've charged the battery, swapped out the fuel for new, and when I turn the key, I get a ratcheting sound/vibration that seems to emanate from under the dash. The starter doesn't budge. The lights come on nice and bright, so it appears that the battery is charged enough. I don't have access to my voltmeter right now. Any thoughts?

 

[kmoe]

MF,

Check the starter soleniod, it's either bad or has a bad connecton.

 

[bcook]

Matt H: Right around Thanksgiving last year, I had the engine from my 1450 completely rebuilt. The engine builder told me it didn't have balance gears in it. It's the original engine, in a 1978 model year tractor.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------These Quietline's are at least 27-28 years old, so pieces and parts being worn out/needing replaced is to be expected. I don't understand why people cuss the Quietline tractors, and especially the ISO mounts so much. Pull the darn engine out, put $40 worth of parts in it, and use it for SEVERAL more years before you have to worry about it again!

And while you are at it, go ahead and put new front snubbers, and flex couplings in, and you are totally set!!

These old Cub Cadets have been used and abused by the previous owners, and sometimes ya just have to get rid of all the cobbed up junk, and the worn out parts. Then get everything adjusted so the tractor operates like it should...they are a pleasure to use then.

I have had to do some work on my 1250, and 1450 when I got them...but since then (except for the engine rebuild) it has been just routine maintenance.

My son uses them with no problems.

(Message edited by bcook on April 02, 2006)

 

[sblunier]

Pulled in the driveway after church this afternoon and thought "I better get a deck under the 149, I'm gonna need to mow before the other 2 get out of their plow day clothes".

So, I put the 44" under the 149 and on the way back to the shed made a couple passes in the backyard....wow, might need to mow BEFORE plow day!!!!!

Spring is here folks!!!!! Sharpen the blades, change the oil, and fill up the gas can (ouch) because it's about itme to mow!!!!

 

[tbordeleau]

My 1450 is stalling out, then is able to start again after 2-3 min sitting.

Here's what happens: Running normally 8-10 min after startinf from cold, it will "POP!", then engine will weaken, pop again, then just die as if it's run out of gas. Wife loves to see that happen.

Let it sit 2-3 min, will start again and run normally for 4-6 min, then do the popping and stalling again. The length of time is stays running SEEMS to depend on the load; I was dozing and it would run for 4-5 min, but when just driving around or pulling my roller, it would run longer.

Is this symptomatic of a bad coil heating up and cutting out?

I've put a kit in the carb (new needle and seat), replaced corroded connections at the coil, and that's it for tuning. It runs and starts great otherwise.

Any thoughts?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Mike F3, yes I do believe that is where I got the photo. The eleven photos I have that I downloaded from your website are date stamped 9/7/2000.

 

[tcbusch]

Ted,
Sounds like the coil is bad.

 

[trentschler]

Well I rebuilt the 10 horse over the winter, and threw it back in the 104 this weekend. Started it up and couldn't get the governor gear to kick in. I pulled it back out, took off the oil pan, and couldn't see any problems way down in there. The gear works, and those flaps are coming free. What could be wrong? I'm gonna look at it again tonight.

 

[tkiste]

I thought I might get to plow this week after the nice warm weather. But now I have to get the water out of the basement and this is the view out of my office window.

 

[digger]

The tractor count is getting closer!

50 John Deere tractors, 59 Cub Cadet tractors
This could be a HUGE event!

 

[digger]

Tim K,
That water will still be there when you get done plowing and just leave that office building to others to fix!

 

[digger]

Ted B,
You could also have a bad rectifier, BTDT

 

[pfunk]

Ted B. I had that trouble with a 122 several years ago. Sounds exactly the same. It seems I tried about everything including a new coil. When I started using MMO, the problem went away. I concluded (don't know if it was right) that a valve was sticking when the engine got hot. If you're not using MMO, you might give it a try. Good luck.

 

[rrschmitt]

Mike F,

Usually a clicking solenoid is a sign of a week battery or poor electrical connections. Make sure your battery cable connectors and posts are wire brushed clean and the bolts are tight. If that don't fix it, then you take your battery to a local garage or autoparts store and put it on a battery tester to put it under a load. You may have a week cell in your battery or one that may be shorted out. It will have enough power to turn on the lights but not enough for cranking the engine over. If that don't fix it, then check the starter solenoid for a loose cable connection. Hope that helps.

Ron

 

[tbordeleau]

Paul:

By MMO I assume you mean Marvel Mystery Oil? How do you apply it, in what quantity, and how often?

I'm open to all ideas, but I'm wondering how a sticking valve would corrct itself after a few minutes? As the engine cools, it falls back ito place?