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Archive through April 01, 2019
- Thread starter ekincaid
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Ethan K.
Thank you as well.
Thank you as well.
Got those hydro springs installed tonight on the freebie 149 tonight,I plan to reinstall the seat pan tomorrow night after stopping at my local cub cadet dealership and picking up a new bucket of hytran I’ll change the fluids while im at it
I got the flywheel removed from my 1250 tonight the magnets are all in place and there was no rust on the stator or magnets. I get 0.02-0.03 ohms when I test the AC wires going into the rectifier and there is contact between the 2 wires. Isnt the good ohm range 0.01-0.02? Would the build up of dirt cause it to not charge? Pictures are taken after they were cleaned up.
Thanks, Aaron
Thanks, Aaron
I did a little more investigation and when I touch the 2 probes of my multi meter together I have 0.2-0.3 ohms resistance which is the same that I'm getting when its hooked to the stator which would then indicate that there is no resistance from the stator correct? I'm going to see if I can borrow a friends multimeter and get a second check. Also when I test the DC Charge wire that plugs into the stator I have contunity between that and the frame. Which indicates another problem correct?
Sorry for all the questions.
Aaron
Sorry for all the questions.
Aaron
After I made my last post I started looking for shorts on the tractor. When I hook one end of the multimeter to the B wire on the rectifier and one to ground I get a tone(indicating a closed circuit). Then I started unhooking things from the wiring harness until the tone stopped. It turns out the tone stopped when I unhooked the hour meter. Is it possible that the hour meter is grounding out and causing the charging problem? Would this also cause the wild numbers flashing across the multimeter screen when the engine was running?
I'd try a different rectifier if one from a parts tractor is available.
Are all the terminal connections bright and tight?
The terminal and plug to the ignition switch?
Battery cables and solenoid connections?
the 2 prong disconnect right by the rectifier?
The engine ground connection?
The terminal and plug to the ignition switch?
Battery cables and solenoid connections?
the 2 prong disconnect right by the rectifier?
The engine ground connection?
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
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- Gerry Ide
Aaron - let's try again.. All those coils in the stator are wired in series like a bunch of Christmas tree lights. With both ends disconnected, there should be no continuity to the engine block - check that by touching one meter probe to one of the two stator wires (with BOTH disconnected) and touching the other probe to a clean spot on the block. If you show continuity, the stator coils have a short to the block.
To check to see if there is an open coil, touch a probe to each of the stator wires - you should measure a low resistance, but you need a multimeter with a low ohms scale, like a maximum 20 ohms range, to accurately check that. IF you can see some continuity, and if the check for a short to the block is negative, the stator is probably OK...
Testing parts of the circuit with some things connected and others not usually doesn't result in a meaningful test.
This isn't really a complicated charging circuit, the stator and flywheel generate simple single phase alternating current, the regulator pack changes it to direct current and clamps it down to the 13 volt charge output..
We are still here to help, your questions are perfectly fine..
To check to see if there is an open coil, touch a probe to each of the stator wires - you should measure a low resistance, but you need a multimeter with a low ohms scale, like a maximum 20 ohms range, to accurately check that. IF you can see some continuity, and if the check for a short to the block is negative, the stator is probably OK...
Testing parts of the circuit with some things connected and others not usually doesn't result in a meaningful test.
This isn't really a complicated charging circuit, the stator and flywheel generate simple single phase alternating current, the regulator pack changes it to direct current and clamps it down to the 13 volt charge output..
We are still here to help, your questions are perfectly fine..
Tristan,
Yes, you have the correct pulley sheave for a B-belt and use on your 782. Note: the Don Dye DB-80 number only applies to sheave itself. The long center hub is unique to Cub Cadet in this application as it has to have enough length to extend the sheave down far enough below the 90 degree gear box to pickup the belt coming under the transmission.
Yes, you have the correct pulley sheave for a B-belt and use on your 782. Note: the Don Dye DB-80 number only applies to sheave itself. The long center hub is unique to Cub Cadet in this application as it has to have enough length to extend the sheave down far enough below the 90 degree gear box to pickup the belt coming under the transmission.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Aaron-
When doing continuity checks of the wiring harness, any and all loads must be removed from the circuit, i.e. PTO clutch coil, light bulbs, hourmeter, etc. The hourmeter would have continuity but some resistance. If the hourmeter itself were an open circuit, it would not work.
When doing continuity checks of the wiring harness, any and all loads must be removed from the circuit, i.e. PTO clutch coil, light bulbs, hourmeter, etc. The hourmeter would have continuity but some resistance. If the hourmeter itself were an open circuit, it would not work.
Matt, When I was testing the wiring harness the PTO was disconnected because the engine is out of the tractor. But I had a closed circuit from the Charge wire on the 2 wire plug that plugs into the harness that goes to the Rectifier and coil and the block. The circuit was opened when I disconnected the hour meter. Is that normal?
Gerry, When I test continuity from the wires off the stator to the block there is an open circuit.The lowest setting on my multimeter for Ohms is 200. Could that give a bad reading? As far as connections go there are 2 good ground wires from the engine to the frame and everything else has been cleaned numerous times with electrical contact cleaner.
May whom ever at the IH factory who installed the hydro oil filter on my freebie 149 be infested with the fleas of a thousand camels....oooff I’ve been battling that filter for over and hour and it hasn’t budged yet I’m going to have to grab some heavy duty strap wrench’s from one of the guys at work tomorrow and crack on after work tomorrow night
Need some measurements from a DD1000 Brinly double disc setup.
Anyone have one?
Please contact me.
Dave Schwandt
Anyone have one?
Please contact me.
Dave Schwandt
dandre
Active member
Ethan, it's not the way the filter was installed, it's the well aged gasket the has become part of the filter and block over time.
Drive a large screwdriver through the filter close to the base to give some leverage. A strap wrench will probably crush or just twist the can of the filter.
Drive a large screwdriver through the filter close to the base to give some leverage. A strap wrench will probably crush or just twist the can of the filter.
Don-I used a cup wrench a claw style plier filter remover and driving a screwdriver into the can.... the filter cup twisted the can,the claw just crushed it and the screwdriver just pealed the metal back.....first shot tonight with the strap wrench at the end of the filter the can buckled and low and behold it moved with some repositioning of the wrench and some more elbow grease the filter spun off,the first filter change when I got my 125 was a PIA as well but not as bad
