Archive through April 01, 2013

[cjrolke]

how about a teaser shot of my latest tractor I am working on?

 

[tbdavis]

Jed - just dropped a k161 today for +10 bore, -10 crank grind, valve job, true head, sonic clean block (sandblasted it) for $125. Parts will run couple hundred I would say by the time it's done. Not sure if this helps but good luck.

 

[sblunier]

Lewis,

Nice find!!!

Shultzie,

Is the PTO bearing locked up?

 

[bjamison]

Balance gear removal question. I pulled the balance gears from my K301 engine tonight. The one nearest the oil pan, it was easy - remove the snap ring and the gear and needle bearing assy comes out. The one in the top of the engine, a chisel and hammer and it came out easy. Problem is the needle bearing assy is still in there, kept in place by the snap ring. My lame snap ring pliers can't get a grip on the snap ring holes. I don't see much harm in leaving them in place. Question is - am I asking for trouble by doing this?

 

[thoffman]

John "L",
Sediment bowls were standard along with the copper fuel line on early Cub Cadets.

 

[hydroharry]

Scott C - I didn't see anyone respond to your question on the hydro tubing from the pump to the trans case. The original style had a big loop in it because apparently IH thought it was really necessary for better cooling. In the later production units IH went to the 2 piece tubing as shown in the CC parts selection when you add it to your cart (the parts diagram itself shows the original loop style). And then later IH went to a single tube with just a right angle bend. I happen to think the 2 piece tubing is better and easier to connect/disconnect. I think the tubing for your original style was very thin walled and prone to cracking it hit/bumped. I believe the later 2 piece and 1 piece is heavier tubing (the later one piece is almost always dented at the right angle. You can probably find a used 2 piece from a donor unit by posting in the Wanted section of the Forum, or you could even go to a good hardware or auto parts store and they may have the correct size so you could cut and make up your own replacement with compression ferrules and fittings. Not knowing the condition of your original tubing maybe you could just cut it into 2 section to make your own right angle version but you'd need the right angle fitting as well, especially since you're on a thrifty budget.
And I saw your comment about probably not painting your unit. I gotta tell ya, you will certainly feel good about your tractor if you do paint it up. (The blue is tough for me to take). I don't know about your summer sun on your side of the mountains, but on this side when it hits 80 it's near perfect for painting these units with spray cans. Dries quick so you get a nice gloss. The cans of correct paint will cost you a few good bucks so you'll have to make sure you clean that blue off well. I didn't really notice any rust so maybe you can sand it so it's flat and smooth, and cover it well with primer, especially since the blue would be hard to cover with the yellow (and you sure don't want it turning green). I'd at least pull the engine (it's only 4 mounting bolts). I prefer to take everything apart myself, but in your case you could leave most of the rest together except the hood. I realize it's a ways off since you're still trying to make sure the unit runs and operates good. There are probably several other things you'll need to still check out, like the steering, the ball joints, wheel bearings, PTO clutch, etc. If you didn't down load a Service Manual from the Manuals thread at the intro page I'd definitely do that. Good luck with everything and keep us informed as you go along. There's alot of help and advice available here.

Bill J - hey what happened to your Quick Question into??? I think you're asking for trouble is you leave that balance gear in there. The snap ring is what usually comes off and then lets the bearing go bouncing around, and then you know what else happens. Ya better get it out of there so you have no more worries.

 

[kshultz]

Mr. Plow

I don't know. How would I check that?
To shed more light when I first started haveing this problem when I turned the switch off the blades would stay running and then quit after about 30 seconds. Then it just got worse and finally wouldn't shut off at all.

 

[wshytle]

Bill J.-

If you're left with just the bearing on the shaft it probably wouldn't hurt anything to leave it but I wouldn't. Harbor Freight sells a cheap snap ring plier set that covers about any size you'll come across. It takes a small ring remover, a flashlight, and a steady hand but it's not that hard to get it all out. I'd go over the crank case with a magnet too and make sure all shrapnel is out of there.

 

[bjamison]

Harry B & Wayne S - thanks for the replies. The snap ring is pretty far up in the block. I might try a screw driver on it to pry the ring off tonight.

Harry B - What's left up in the engine is an outer race, needle bearings and a snap ring - the balance gear is gone - as I busted it out per the FAQ's. I'm pretty confident that without the mass/weight of the balance gear (since I've removed it), the snap ring has no reason to come off. If it did, I think it and the other items would find their way to the bottom of the oil pan - where I have a magnetic drain plug. Even if a needle bearing or snap ring came off and got smacked by the crank while running, I don't think it would open a window on the block like a balance gear flying around in there.

But - I'll try again to get the needle bearing assy out again.

Thanks!
Bill

 

[cmcclain]

You didn't tell me the price on having the work done, Terry...That's a darn good price for machine work!...Let me know about those engines, later today...Text ya, then!