Most tri ribs will tear up turf if you turn tight when going at a good speed in the grass. But that being said, I had them on a off color diesel GT and if care was taken in the turns, easy enough with a hydro drive, its very do-able and they are really nice in the fields. Just have to get past the high cost of those Firestone tri ribs! I would have prefered they made them with more equil ribs and not the huge center rib like they did. Mike
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Archive through April 01, 2009
- Thread starter tmarkle
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Kendall,
Matt is correct, I never intended to go around the sponsors. My steering column was shot, yet now once again like new. Most of our sponsors deal in used parts. I think they may have found some new life for the stack of worn out columns behind the shed. Hope so as I still need them for other parts.
Another item is the original design is not too sound. The area that gets the most wear and tear, bearing race is built into the most expensive part. Using balls that continue to find the same spots at full lock and center while the wheels are being pummeled does not make sense. The points of the balls will gradually, and then more quickly dent the race. If both races can be replaced that seems to be a better design.
Anyway, I still have my question out there why is the stud cam follower not threaded all the way? I have purchased a back up from one of our sponsors, CC Warehouse (good service) and am pondering the act of finishing the threads. To me this makes so much sense.
Matt is correct, I never intended to go around the sponsors. My steering column was shot, yet now once again like new. Most of our sponsors deal in used parts. I think they may have found some new life for the stack of worn out columns behind the shed. Hope so as I still need them for other parts.
Another item is the original design is not too sound. The area that gets the most wear and tear, bearing race is built into the most expensive part. Using balls that continue to find the same spots at full lock and center while the wheels are being pummeled does not make sense. The points of the balls will gradually, and then more quickly dent the race. If both races can be replaced that seems to be a better design.
Anyway, I still have my question out there why is the stud cam follower not threaded all the way? I have purchased a back up from one of our sponsors, CC Warehouse (good service) and am pondering the act of finishing the threads. To me this makes so much sense.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Uhh - like I said, I've got two to do this summer.. I was just covering our collective (censored)s before THE MAN reminds us of who pays the bills for the forum and <u>does</u> carry rebuild kits that will work where the boxes aren't totally worn out.
Butch, it is still a great idea and I think it deserves a place in the Faqs
Butch, it is still a great idea and I think it deserves a place in the Faqs
Charles, Trannys are not that complcated, Pretty much start at the top and work your way down. I know that some of the guys here can steer you to manuals and photos,and I know there are lots of used parts to be had. Really when you get into it, It"s kinda fun, If this 'sparky' can do it so can you!!!
Todd Markle - The 82 series use two different lift bars for the hydro and gear drive tractors. The gear drive has a more prononced bend, and offset. The hydro is more flat with an offset.
Check the TC-193 parts breakdown. I don't think it actually shows the different bar for gear drive.
Check the TC-193 parts breakdown. I don't think it actually shows the different bar for gear drive.
Todd M.
Aaron at Xtrememotorworks (Button Above) has all the lift arms and variations there of.
Aaron at Xtrememotorworks (Button Above) has all the lift arms and variations there of.
Jesse E.
CLICK HERE
CLICK HERE
Greg, here's a cutaway view of an installed IH spring assist, and a photo of one installed on a 100 along with a Grote tail lamp.
J
jspicer
Guest
Cory,
I wish I could find a few deals like that. Then maybe my wife wouldn't be so mad when I bring home a new cadet
. Should have gotten a couple more out of his way!!
Later, Josh
I wish I could find a few deals like that. Then maybe my wife wouldn't be so mad when I bring home a new cadet
Later, Josh
lpalma
Well-known member
These tires work good for grass cutting and there made in the U.S.A. by Carlisle.
They are availible at TS.
They are availible at TS.
Good day. I am having a couple issues with my 129.
1)getting belts off to replace? Cannot find size
2)getting bolts off blades, seem to be rusted on and they have been soaking (wd40) for days now.
3)choke does not seem to pull out far enough to help engine start.
Thanks in advance.
Jamie
1)getting belts off to replace? Cannot find size
2)getting bolts off blades, seem to be rusted on and they have been soaking (wd40) for days now.
3)choke does not seem to pull out far enough to help engine start.
Thanks in advance.
Jamie
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Pete M.-
I'm not sure that those 18-8.5-8 tires will work on a 100 and not hit the spindle, axle, or side of the frame in a turn. If you put them on stock rims, I am willing to bet that they will interfere with the spindle on the left side at the least.
Jamie O.-
1. http://cubfaq.com
2. WD40 is worthless as a penetrant. Get some PB Blaster. You'll probably need an impact wrench to remove the nuts. Make sure to use anti-seize compound when you reassemble.
3. This could be a lot of things. It could be rusty and binding internally, the cable might be kinked or adjusted improperly, or something like that. Take off the air cleaner housing and watch what the cable is doing as you pull the choke control knob. If it isn't adjusted right, you should be able to tell.
Lewis P.-
In my opinion, those tires SUCK for anything other than mowing extremely dry grass on a yard with no hills. If the grass is slightly wet or you try to do anything else, such as plow or throw snow, you can't steer.
I'm not sure that those 18-8.5-8 tires will work on a 100 and not hit the spindle, axle, or side of the frame in a turn. If you put them on stock rims, I am willing to bet that they will interfere with the spindle on the left side at the least.
Jamie O.-
1. http://cubfaq.com
2. WD40 is worthless as a penetrant. Get some PB Blaster. You'll probably need an impact wrench to remove the nuts. Make sure to use anti-seize compound when you reassemble.
3. This could be a lot of things. It could be rusty and binding internally, the cable might be kinked or adjusted improperly, or something like that. Take off the air cleaner housing and watch what the cable is doing as you pull the choke control knob. If it isn't adjusted right, you should be able to tell.
Lewis P.-
In my opinion, those tires SUCK for anything other than mowing extremely dry grass on a yard with no hills. If the grass is slightly wet or you try to do anything else, such as plow or throw snow, you can't steer.
Jamie O.
1. The Cub Cadet Parts Lookup Button Above or the FAQ's.
2. Impact wrench or a 2x4 and a big breaker bar.
3. Some one may have cut it short at one time or it's rusted too. You say it seems? You have not looked? Try taking the air cleaner off, pull the choke and by looking inside the carb, you can see if it's closing all the way or not.
1. The Cub Cadet Parts Lookup Button Above or the FAQ's.
2. Impact wrench or a 2x4 and a big breaker bar.
3. Some one may have cut it short at one time or it's rusted too. You say it seems? You have not looked? Try taking the air cleaner off, pull the choke and by looking inside the carb, you can see if it's closing all the way or not.
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