782 Quit while cutting the grass

[Nopriors]

Was running fine and then just dead stop. Tried to restart and nothing. Not even the new electric fuel pump humming. Checked the fuse on the left side 15 amp and was blown. Replaced the fuse and got lights and fuel pump but starter did nothing. Tried jumping same thing. Battery is new. Had diagnosed before voltage regulator was loose and running crappy. Cleaned contacts and ran great. 721978. Was really grateful for the help in the restore thread and will be very appreciative for a diagnose plan here. Thanks, Greg

 

[gary noblit]

The simplest test for a starter: Use jumper cable from pos.post to starter input post.Hook on starter post first then touch(not hook) batt. post.If starter is good it should try to crank.Check ground on batt.and ground to engine before assuming you have a short. remove starter: hook ground on case pos. on post then hook pos to batt.touch ground on batt post.Starter should instantly crank.If it doesn't you found your problem..If it does not crank you're back to chasing ,start with ignition switch..you're dealing with a 50 yr old system,if it whirs it wears out..

 

[digger]

Was running fine and then just dead stop. Tried to restart and nothing. Not even the new electric fuel pump humming. Checked the fuse on the left side 15 amp and was blown. Replaced the fuse and got lights and fuel pump but starter did nothing. Tried jumping same thing. Battery is new. Had diagnosed before voltage regulator was loose and running crappy. Cleaned contacts and ran great. 721978. Was really grateful for the help in the restore thread and will be very appreciative for a diagnose plan here. Thanks, Greg

Wiggle the PTO switch while trying to start it.

 

[dszydlo]

Once had something like this happen on my brother's cub cadet, turned out being the shunt on the back of the ammeter corroded preventing battery voltage getting through to the ignition switch. replaced ammeter and was good to go.

Good luck,
Dave

 

[Nopriors]

Thanks to everyone for the help.
So when I put the tractor back in the carport I realized that I hadn't shut the PTO off. When I shut it off it started. I went back to cutting the grass and after about the same duration of time it died again. When I put in a new fuse it blew as soon as I tried to start. After three fuses ( I know the definition of insanity...) I called it a day and then this morning I went and got more fuses.
I began removing the various covers to get to the starter. Thank you Gary, I did your test and the starter kicked over. I felt maybe some thing was overheating causing additional load blowing the fuse. It has an Xtreme power equipment clutch which had come lose shortly after I got the tractor and tore the wire lose and I fixed that and it has been working fine. I did their test of putting current to the clutch and it clicked fine.
As I was examining the wires running under the starter the two wires leading to the headlights were both frayed at the same spot and contacting each other.
I removed the headlight fuse and it started.
I am not sure that this has really solved the problem. Simply because the stalling took place after about the same duration of time. I realized the front pulley of the mule deck is very close to if not rubbing against the frame. I am wondering if that is putting load on the clutch causing it to overheat.
I'll adjust the tension and see If I can get some clearance. I imagine like everything on this baby it is due for a new belt.
I really am grateful for everyone's feedback. I want to spend my retirement learning as many new things as I can and you guys are a great help.
Greg

 

[Nopriors]

Back to square one. Still blowing a fuse after about 10 minute run time. The fuse is very hot when I check it.
Yesterday I just went through some basics to learn. I set the points, double checked the wiring. Last night studying things on YouTube it dawned on me that I never checked the gap on the plugs which I had replaced. Turns out they were almost double the .025 recommended in the Kohler manual. So I reset the gap put them back in and could not believe how smooth the motor ran at all idle speeds! Then I let in run and got off the tractor only to see that I had only reconnected one of the spark plugs. Shut it off reconnected the spark plug, started it up and it sounded crappy again. I am guessing running smooth on one cylinder and crappy on two should be a clue to something.
Anyway the big bummer discovery was that one of the bolts holding on the intake manifold is snapped off. It seems right now there is no point in doing anything until that is addressed. So a new task to figure out. Get to work.
Any thoughts on the great on one cylinder, bad on two would be appreciated.
Thanks everyone,
Greg

 

[lpalma]

Remove the wire on the good one and see if it runs.

 

[Nopriors]

Remove the wire on the good one and see if it runs.

Thanks! I'm in breakdown mode to get to the snapped off bolt.