582 Transmission Disassembly?

[tfrashure]

Ok guys. I'm working on my 582 with a 12hp stuck in it. I had it out driving around and parked it. Next time I go to move it, it won't start. Then it needs moved and I have to jack up the rearend to drag it around. I have pushed many around and usually they are hydros but seems to me that in neutral I should be able to move this thing around. The transmission is now out of the tractor. I drove pin out of driveshaft coupler, unbolted the gear shift, removed front bolts that are usually loose, and it is out. Axle covers and axles have been removed. Would like to change the wet brakes while I'm in here, but can not figure out how to get gear reduction housing loose from tranny? Removed 2 large bolts from the bottom, are there other bolts somewhere I can't see? Don't want to crack the case. I don't remember having this malfunction junction with my 122. Near as I can tell I think I may have a pinion bearing bad or a main shaft bearing bad in tranny? Help me get it apart and I will update you with what I find and if I ever get this thing back together. Thanks. I jacked it up with rearend cover off and spider gears all seem to be free. Ring gear wouldn't move. If I grabbed a hold of driveshaft it would turn easily in neutral, all I could do to turn it with it in gear. Think that is all I know, if you have more questions to try and determine problem ask and I will answer if I have one. Maybe I can post some pics later. Yes it was full of water. Where is the link where you guys drill a hole in the case so water/oil will circulate from axle covers to rearend?

 

[lpalma]

You may have a stuck brake puck or maybe the shifter forks are out of alignment and it is stuck between gears. Now that you have the shifter off you can move the shift rails back to neutral. I know you don't have to remove the GRH to fix the brake pucks. see pix.

Remove the GRH cover and the other bolts are in there.
Best thing to do is download the service manual for it if you plan on a full disassembly.

 

[tfrashure]

those are some excellent pictures. good news is the problem is the wet brakes were stuck engaged. Seems like there is enough pads left, new ones may not be necessary. I took a chisel and a hammer to create some space between pad and disc that spins and everything freed up. Now I am trying to figure out how free them up enough so that they release on their own. Just spent a couple hours trying to get big pin drove out of arm that works the pucks and case-with very little success. If I remove gear reduction housing from transmission, will I gain access to the pin that pushes in on the puck? My sugar was going low so I had to come home and eat something but I will be back over there working on it some more. The pin is out on your picture, is there a secret to it? I have it almost out of one side of the case but it seems as though it is stuck on brake lever. I beat it down, then beat lever back and forth, then try to beat down again. I've put heat to the case and lever trying to get them to expand without any luck. About ready to flip tranny over and try going other direction.

 

[lpalma]

All these questions are answered in the service manual. You need to use some pb blaster and a little patience to get the arm out. My brake pin pulled out with a pair of pliers, yours may be rusted in place and may take more effort. The nut and square nut have to be removed to take out the brake arm. Link to the service manual. http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/manuals/gss-1497.pdf

 

[tfrashure]

Thanks for the help everybody. Transmission is apart, well GRD is loose from tranny. Took parts to my buddies' shop and used sand blaster and a few of their fancy tools. Took a while to get the ball out of the plunger #5 out of #3. Need to order a new o-ring for plunger (that's what I call the piece that pushes in and applies the brakes #3in above pic). That thing is pretty rough, used sandblast cabinet, used a burr to try to round it back out so new brake material would go in, then used angle die grinder with whiz wheel to try and polish metal back up. Pretty rough, and wasn't me but somebody has beat the hell out of it. Was able to use dremel with grinding wheel on to try and clean up inside of brake lever, not sure if it is loose enough yet or not as I have not tried pounding pin back through it. Question-How loose should brake lever be since pin will stay in after brake adjuster bolt is put back in? That being said, can I clean up the case enough so that the pin is loose in the case and only the adjustment screw holds it all together? Just wanted to update everybody that took time to respond. Need to order a #4, don't want to do all this and have a big puddle of oil on the floor when I get it back together. Pretty rough from either all the rust or nicks in the case where somebody beat it up. Like all these old tractors who knows what this tractor has lived through. Oh and can somebody point me to thread where you guys talk about drilling holes in bottom of case so fluid (or water) can drain out of axle carriers and mix with rearend oil?

 

[dschwandt]

Drain the rear end, clean and replace with new oil.
You are already into it this far, why not.
Probably never has been changed.
I use 30 weight as suggested in the manual year round in my GD's
Be careful beating on stuff, You do not want to break the ears off the differential casting.