450 snow blower refurb

[dtanner]

I have started the refurb on my blower as I want to use it this winter on the now paved drive.
I had to install the sub frame to see if I can use a hyd cylinder out of a Cub to lift the snow blower. Time will tell.I did repair most ,all I thought that needed attention

,but will have to do a rust repair. I should have parts (new belt and chute) soon as Charlie is looking after that for me.Thanks for that.

 

[aaytay]

Don-
I'll be watching this thread closely.

I've got a #450 snow-blower on the 2072 that gets used for snow clean up duties. That blower is a SNOW EATING MACHINE, but the lift system is really lacking!

I've thought about putting a cylinder on the subframe using the front hyd-outlets to lift the blower, but I'm not smart enough to figure it out, so keep us posted on how you make this work.

 

[dtanner]

Art A
I have gave this some thought and got a cylinder from Frank C. That will give me all the lift I need to use my front hyd ports on the 1512. I just hope the 1512 will have enuf power to blow the snow lol.

And I have a back up till I get it right

 

[dtanner]

Home of the Plow Special (Aaytay)

Art
I would love your input on my idea. I won`t know how much the lift will get with the belt length.But here is my idea

I want to remove the lift arms from the top and add the cylinder on the bottom shaft. some small pipe should keep it centered and I will have to make a bracket at the top to keep alignment and straight lift .

I will get 4 3/4 lift if belt length is aviable.

Please tell me if you think this is a wast of time,I`am sure you gave this some thought

 

[dtanner]

Home of the Plow Special (Aaytay)

Art I thought you would have a few questions by now for me. just how much lift should I go for with my blower. ? will 4" off the paved drive be a good amount of lift ? I think I just need enuf that the blower does not get caught up on small bumps in the drive( is that correct ?? ) I await your input on this . I will have hose made up next week and use some 3/4 round stock for the upper lift rod for the cylinder. Let me know what you all think on this idea . Thanks Don T

 

[aaytay]

Don-
I think your idea is certainly plausable. I'm not "expert" enough on things like this to tell you how it will pan-out in the REAL WORLD, but it seems to me like a good solution. I like the fact that you're using a CC-hyd cylinder. Not only does it somehow seem "correct", but those cylinders are easily found.

My only "question" with the design you show is: What is keeping the cylinder and slotted lift arms from just "falling" forward? Is something needed to keep the cylinder in the position you show it? It looks like it may want to fall...

My #450 blower doesn't lift very high with the standard lift set-up (maybe ~3-4"?) and anything you can do to get rid of the stock arangement would be an improvement in my opinion.

As much as I hate to say this, I think you're going to have to do some trial-and-error to get it the way you want it. Since you have a "back up" snow-blower, and I don't, I say "go for it!"

 

[aaytay]

Don-
I just thought of something...

You're going to want to make sure that cylinder isn't going to hit the lower front portion of your tractor's frame right here when you install the blower.

Just something to consider before you have someone "metal-glue" that thing together.

 

[mgonitzke]

You may also have trouble with the 3/4" round stock bending. You may have to brace that.

 

[dtanner]

Home of the Plow Special (Aaytay)
I see that might be an issue with the lift cylinder. I did have a look and think I can make a bracket for the cylinder to keep it away for hitting. Thanks for that info.I`am making a list of bits and parts to buy so I can move on to other things I want to do. I have not gave up on a foot control for the hydro on my loader .

Also Art
(My only "question" with the design you show is: What is keeping the cylinder and slotted lift arms from just "falling" forward)

I don`t think that will be a problem because the long arms attach from the sub frame to the top of the blower and the arms I will use to lift it attach to the bottom (correct ???). so where the cylinder will be placed will force the blower up because it can`t move forward. I think I can get a piece of round stock that will lift the blower with out bending. with the cylinder down I want the blower to sit just on the paved drive and hang off the from of my tractor. This will give me all the lift that cylinder can give. Time will tell if I can make it work. Don T

 

[dtanner]

There got to be another way to get the paint off this snow blower. The glass pluged every 2 min

, and that would mean a 65 foot walk just to shut off the air. I did do about 15 minutes and used what I had home.I will use Picklex after I get this clean.Go to get on the phone for a paint remover.

and some welding here

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don, I use a 4.5" angle grinder with a wire cup brush to remove old paint and rust. Works great. I actually have 3 angle grinders. I leave a grinding wheel in one, a sanding disk in another and the wire cup brush in the third. Be sure to wear a respirator, don't want to be breathing that paint dust.

 

[dtanner]

Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"
have you ever used these ? 40 grit for a 5" x 7/8" center. I bought them to try out and now might be a good time for that.

I think 40 grit might cause the metal to be marked up and need some filler to get it smoth again

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don, I've not used that style. It might have been a 40 grit sanding disc that I used to remove the paint/rust on the QA42 snow thrower I refurbished many years ago (back in 1999 or 2000). In my case, the primer filled the scratches just fine with no filler. <FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT> Then again it might have been 80 grit.

I started using the wire cup brush on this project to better get into the corners and found that it worked better than the sanding disc.

Before above, after below.

 

[dtanner]

Thanks Kraig
I have ben putting off this trip to town for awhile. might as well get me some paint removal equipment. This will cost me lol.Nice job and the blower .

 

[dtanner]

Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"

Well I followed your advice and bought a new angle grinder and a three inch crimped wire cup brush.Time I bought some 1/2 threded rod and some sandpaper,nuts, washers , and $247.45 was gone from the bank.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don,

I didn't spend that much on all 3 of my 4.5" angle grinders including the stack of grinding discs, cup brushes and sanding discs. I think the most I spent on any one grinder was $40. The cheapest was under $10 on sale. I should have bought two of the cheap Wen brand grinders as that one is my favorite one. Is that Makita a 7" grinder?

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[dfrisk]

DON, KRAIG - I have a Dewalt 4-1/2" grinder that I bet is over twenty-five yrs old. I've replaced the cord twice and it needs another new one now. That's all I've done to it, it just ALWAYS works. It's my grinder of first choice. I also got Dad's old Dewalt 4-1/2", same model, only older and more beat-up and it's my second choice. I bought a Milwaukee Magnum 15 amp 4-1/2" angle grinder several years ago. Ohhh does it make the sparks fly! It's longer than the Dewalts by 4-5 inches which makes getting into tight places a problems sometimes. Then I have a 7"/9" 6000 rpm Black & Decker angle grinder, 15 amp, 4 HP motor. BIG heavy sucker, weighs 20 pounds with a 7" disc. I don't use it much! Then I have a 1/4" Craftsman die grinder, (Think Dremel on Steroids!), 3-4 Dremels, and three 1/4" air die grinders.

DON - I use those flap wheels A LOT! They work great on steel or wood. They're great for preparing edges for welding, and also dressing ugly welds you don't want anyone to see.

DAD used to buy his abrasives in BULK from Harbor Freight I think. He snuck a couple big boxes of thin cut-off wheels, grinding wheels, all kinds of stuff into my truck four yrs ago. I haven't begun to use up a quarter of them yet.

The knotted wire cup brushes work great for paint removal. But I'd wear a surgical mask safely glasses AND a face shield when using them.

They also sell a Scotch-brite disc or wheel that's good for paint & rust removal. They don't scarf up the base metal, just remove the paint & rust and shine up the metal. I've also used what's called a "Zippidy-Do" wheel, attaches to a mandrel that chucks into a drill, it's a semi-rigid abrasive coated mesh wheel that really cuts paint & rust but will scratch the base metal. But they will not load-up with old paint. The abrasive wears away fast enough you always have clean abrasive cutting.

 

[dtanner]

I do have to admit , the new grinder is quick at removing paint and rust.I think a morning and I should be done grinding the paint off that blower. Thanks

 

[dtanner]

Well the grinder was $154.99 and the rest was bolts nuts washer for the blower.And don`t forget TAX lol. The guy said that will take the hard useage and last. So I will see.

5" angle grinder Makita GA 5010 11,000/ min and weight is 5.8 lbs and 14" long