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2072 problems

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twingard

Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2015
Messages
10
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Tim Wingard Jr.
hey guys...ill try n make this as short as I can and as clear as I can...I recently bought a 2072 and have been having issues after around a half hour of use(mowing grass)...it runs fine for the half hour then starts to choke itself down sometimes it completely kills the engine other times it just revs up and down...I originally thought carb...so tore that apart soaked it for a few days in "gunk" I believe it was called and rebuilt it...that did not cure the problem...could this be a bad ignition coil? Im having a hard time diagnosing the problem..any other opinions? thanks everyone
 
No condenser on a magneto ignition engine.

If it dies, will it start right back up, or does it have to cool down? Will it run at idle?
 
no it will not start back up if it dies...the starter just turns and turns....it will run fine at idle before the choking down begins but not afterwards
 
Does it help to pull out choke as it is dieing? If so, still fuel issue.....if not ignition module....or short in pto harness causing ignition module to ground out (not likely)....
 
haven't got a chance to check if it still has spark after it dies yet matt...and steve before I rebuilt the carb yes it did help to pull out the choke but once i put the carb back on and it still acted up i just parked it got (got frustrated and luckily i have my 1810 to fall back on)...started leaning away from fuel issues since it runs fine for a half hour or so..seems to me it starts to fail once something gets hot...but im really not sure that's why i came to you guys haha
 
hey matt, ran it today and once it started acting up I shut it off..tried to start it back up and i had spark in the left plug wire but no spark on the right side
 
ill check to make sure its not plugged steve but its brand new so im thinkin not..still no fire to the right side plug wire...getting ready to pull the motor this weekend and replace the ignition coil...any other opinions before we tear it apart?
 
Tim: I don't think that no spark on one side would cause the engine to die and not restart. The engine employs a "wasted spark" ignition system, so it should run about as well on one cylinder as two (I know this to be a fact), it just will lack horsepower. So, if one side only is dropping out, then it would cause a precipitous, but not deadly, drop in power output, that is, if mowing, all of a sudden it would struggle, but otherwise be OK.

As far as heating up and konking out, and it being an ignition problem, you should check the air gap to be sure it is correct (a matchbook cover or 0.010" of an inch). I would also check to be sure you have the correct heat range in the plugs, Kohler calls for Champion RV17YC or equivalent in the M18/M20 motors gapped at 0.035" The plugs do make a difference, Matt Gonitzke found a corresponding NKG plug, and he promised the number to anyone who asked. I found an AC Delco plug in mine and the "equivalent" I was able to source improved performance a lot, as I recall.

296570.jpg


The engine should still run if the plugs are functional and not fouled; the correct heat range would hedge against their fouling.

All that being said, the ignition module, i.e., Magneto, is a common point of failure with these engines, so I doubt the money would be wasted should you decide to replace it.
Kirk Engines (above) sports an aftermarket part which outperforms the original, as I understand it.

Good luck.
smile.gif
 
Just my .02 worth...I ran NGK UR45/stock no 6945 in my 1810 and 1811 for years and never had any problems.The RV17YC crosses to a NGK UR4 if that helps any. Hope this helps.
 
hey guys put a new ignition module in it and new plugs seems to be running a lot better now..still fightin some carb issues or fuel issues in general I should say...one question I have is should the fuel filter be filling up about the whole way? mine is only filling up maybe a quarter of the way which I thought to be odd so thought maybe fuel pump goin but was told the pump either fails or works theres no in between also found that to be odd...anyhow thanks for everyones input..can't wait to get the bugs work out have only owned the tractor for a couple months but seems like it'll be strong
 
Partially full is OK.....as long as it runs a full stream out of the end of the hose.....
 
Disclaimer...highjacking this thread for a question.
Are the lip seals SU-11156097 on the pump the same as some of the IH part numbers, or does someone have a part number for aftermarket.

I'm not paying Cub Cadet $17.83 plus shipping for a stinking seal.
 
Rick B.
If your working on a 2072, I come up with SU-9008000-6701 as a PN for the lip seal that are around 11 bucks.
 
Charlie, yep it's a 2072.

Your number (SU-9008000-6701) comes up(#5 from the diagram).
But, when I "add to cart" it comes up in the cart as SU-11156097 @ $17.83 ea.

Add $4.99 shipping and we have a $22.82 seal. OUCH!

I was hoping someone would at least have the dimensions or a suitable part# before I tear it apart.

I won't even bring up the 6 month back order for a fuze holder....oops I just did.
 
I bit the bullet and just ordered it with some other stuff...
At least free shipping on orders over $75
aaaa_tongue2.gif
 

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