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Remember that weights attached to the chassis translates to weight on the wheel bearings ( or bushings in most cases and you may want to rethink that as the bushings are small and soft metal. Wheel weights ( including filling the tubes halfway with water does a marvelous job of creating traction weight and stability on slopes.
I know there is that cracker picture with 20 wheel weights on each side and Im not 'for a moment suggesting you all go completely bonkers, but a double pair of wheel weights inside and out plus water should give you plenty of traction, also allow the tyres to bulge a bit by not pumping too hard.

remember that every action has an equal and opposite reaction, so those poor bushings are not going to thank you for extra chassis held weight
Gee, Gordon, no offense, but I'm thinking old wives tale. I'm reading that Wade and most of this list would agree that back porch/chassis weight does not contribute to bearing failure. Case in point: Since 1991 my Elec-Trak (160 lbs at the back porch), 240 lbs in four batteries, 80 lbs transaxle, electric lift made the plow up/down/left/right a breeze. No fluid in tires, no annoying wheel weights. I miss it the ET. No plow for my CC102. Craigslist North Jersey has my CC listing where you'll find a rear weight kit, never installed it on the Cub.
Best, Jack
 
Gee, Gordon, no offense, but I'm thinking old wives tale. I'm reading that Wade and most of this list would agree that back porch/chassis weight does not contribute to bearing failure. Case in point: Since 1991 my Elec-Trak (160 lbs at the back porch), 240 lbs in four batteries, 80 lbs transaxle, electric lift made the plow up/down/left/right a breeze. No fluid in tires, no annoying wheel weights. I miss it the ET. No plow for my CC102. Craigslist North Jersey has my CC listing where you'll find a rear weight kit, never installed it on the Cub.
Best, Jack
I shud have added to the ET weight, 190 lbs, me.
 
Remember that weights attached to the chassis translates to weight on the wheel bearings ( or bushings in most cases and you may want to rethink that as the bushings are small and soft metal. Wheel weights ( including filling the tubes halfway with water does a marvelous job of creating traction weight and stability on slopes.
I know there is that cracker picture with 20 wheel weights on each side and Im not 'for a moment suggesting you all go completely bonkers, but a double pair of wheel weights inside and out plus water should give you plenty of traction, also allow the tyres to bulge a bit by not pumping too hard.

remember that every action has an equal and opposite reaction, so those poor bushings are not going to thank you for extra chassis held weight
Case in point. Two neighbors, identical Kabota 3000 series. Both with Loaders (FEL). My South Neighbor moves gravel, compost, etc while my East neighbor is strictly pushing out hay from the barn. Both guys have Great respect for their expensive tool.
Having said that, South neighbor has blown the bearings on his front axle twice in 1200 hours. The extra front load absolutely works the bearings harder. Annual fluid changes or not.
Having said that, maybe the rear axle on our Cubs are so robust that they could be used in a small car. If that's the case then a few hundred lbs for a few months may not cause an issue.
For winter plowing I have one set wheel weights plus about 80lbs on my hitch.... Plus me. It does what I need without straining parts.
 
I have 4 years worth of use now on my 149/DanCo rig w/near 350 # in the factory weight box plus loaded tires w/no issues and we have worked the crap out of this rig w/no bearing issues, front or rear.
Gravel, dirt, big chunks of logs cut for splitting, you name it.
 
Case in point. Two neighbors, identical Kabota 3000 series. Both with Loaders (FEL). My South Neighbor moves gravel, compost, etc while my East neighbor is strictly pushing out hay from the barn. Both guys have Great respect for their expensive tool.
Having said that, South neighbor has blown the bearings on his front axle twice in 1200 hours. The extra front load absolutely works the bearings harder. Annual fluid changes or not.
Having said that, maybe the rear axle on our Cubs are so robust that they could be used in a small car. If that's the case then a few hundred lbs for a few months may not cause an issue.
For winter plowing I have one set wheel weights plus about 80lbs on my hitch.... Plus me. It does what I need without straining parts.
"Axles on our Cubs are so robust..." Could not agree more; have seen on this forum a comparo between Cub and Wheelhorse (of equal HP) where the Cub easily outplowed the wheelhorse. That's an attribute of a stout transaxle.
Best, Jack
 
I'm still new, and unsure how to do things, so please forgive me. My issue (for now) is: I have a Cub Cadet model SLT1550 and I would like to convert the front wheels from plastic Bushings, to Bearings. I've seen several "kits" on sites, but none that suggest anything for Cub Cadets. Does anyone know where I can find these? I'll probably end up with a spacer on the spindle as well cause the original wheel bushings are protruding out of the wheel centers. I'd really appreciate some help, if that's allowable on this site??? Thanks Bob H, Southern Indiana
 
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