1977, 1650 project

[jerry.a.johnson]

Stevenovick1: I think we all had an Ava! Kind of a crush, but with a healthy dose of fear...since she could have kicked our butt at anytime.

Greg: Wasn't running when I got it and as I mentioned when I got the hood and heat shield off it was easy to see why, looking at the wiring. Thought about just doing a few simple things but I knew my cousin had worked it hard for a lot of years. He took pretty good care of it, kept it garaged, etc. but decided it was going to get a complete refurbish. And since he just gave it to me that allowed for more room to spend money on it.

Mainly waiting on parts right now. Got most of the rubber mounts, switch, harness, etc. And this weekend will be busy with mowing using my fleet of MTD variants I've re-furbished. So might not get much done on Ava this weekend. Hoping to get the engine cradle mods all done though.

We have a family ranch that my great-grandparents from Sweden homesteaded in 1901. We mow around all the old barns and open areas, a big area around my sawmill, miles of roads, etc. to keep the fire danger down through the summer months. So Ava will see plenty of use later. But keeps me busy mowing every other weekend for a few months.

 

[jerry.a.johnson]

It's been awhile. Figured I better post an update or you guys will think I kicked the bucket, or gave up.

With all the heat out here in the west, I can only work in my shop for 5 or 6 hours in the morning before the heat drives me out. Number of fires all around, so the air is thick with smoke. And because of that my real job has been intruding on my fun time. A number of 13 hour days for a few weeks. And then normal summer stuff, like hauling hay.

But Ava is still slowly progressing. Engine cradle done and just needs final coat of paint. Block is all stripped down (except for the governor, which has a replacement coming). All ready for some serious cleaning and painting. Crankshaft is at the machine shop getting the Kirk Balance Plate installed. Cylinder and crank were in good shape so standard piston and rod ordered. Actually everything was in good shape, including the valve guides. Maybe the old girl didn't have as many hours on her as I thought.

Looks a little sad in the engine stand right now but no where to go but up right now!

 

[dschwandt]

Should have had the machine shop tank that block and mic it as well for out of round and taper.

 

[jerry.a.johnson]

I mic'ed it for out of round and taper and everything looked really good. I like the tanking idea. Problem is he is really backed up...months out on any significant stuff. Thought he could get my balance plate installed between jobs in 3 weeks or maybe less. He's highly recommended but because of that is slammed with work right now. Seems to be a recurring theme in our area right now.

 

[rjruchti]

Most good machine shops are swamped with work. I had a Briggs L head block in for 10 over bore job and took 4-1/2 weeks before I got it back. But it was worth the wait to get it done right as it is back in the 782 and runs real nice now. Yea I know, 782's didn't have a Briggs in them they had the Kohler KT17 - mine like most others self destruct.

 

[jkoenig]

I used to live a couple of miles away from the best machine shop for racing stuff in the area. If I brought in my Kohler stuff, and told him I was in no hurry, he would think it was cool, and jump right on it. If I said I needed it in a hurry, he would take weeks. That shop is now long gone, and sorely missed.

 

[jerry.a.johnson]

Slow but sure. Machinist doesn't use tanks anymore. Said he got tired of using gloves, fumes and all the rest. He uses something like a commercial dishwasher now. Lots of heat, steam, etc. Said he would squeeze me in if I would bring all my parts when I came to get the crankshaft...and I gave him a nice tip for the consideration. The "dishwasher" did a nice job. Actually got time in the last few weekends to get to the fun part...putting it back together. Wish I had time to keep going but there's always next weekend.

 

[jerry.a.johnson]

Any ideas on reattaching a serial number sticker? It and the model number sticker were coming loose on the blower housing. I masked them off when I repainted the housing and in the process of pulling the masking tape off the serial number sticker came completely off. Here's a pic of how tough they looked before removal, clean up and paint.

 

[mgonitzke]

Spray adhesive or contact cement would be my go-to adhesives for that task.

 

[jerry.a.johnson]

Working on making a new wiring harness. Decided to make my own as it will be less expensive and I enjoy soldering and doing such things. I am using all new wire, soldered and crimped connections, etc. Here is a pic showing how nasty the receptacle was for the main switch.

But also, just below the switch, someone tapped into the red with a white lead that went to the small post on the solenoid. The same post the lead goes to for the brake switch. Any ideas on why that was done?

Next question is the larger green wire coming out of the receptacle that goes to the ammeter. The new receptacle I bought has a smaller gauge wire consistent in size with the others in the pigtail. Figured I would de-pin and replace with larger gauge wire like this original. Any thoughts about this?

 

[jerry.a.johnson]

Also thought some of you might get a kick out of this pic! Initially noticed the governor spring was wore but forgot about it when I was cleaning and painting parts. So the old one got all spiffed up. At assembly I realized there was not much left to work with! Hole and spring about wore out.

Engine just waiting for a place to go right now. Tweaking, wire harness and some paint touch up...then she will have a home. This pic was taken awhile back and have mostly finished it up since.

 

[dschwandt]

I'd replace the wires with the same gage as original.
These machines do not take well to long term outside storage leading to the issues you are now dealing with.

 

[jkoenig]

Looking good Jerry!

That spring looks like it got spiffed up just to go into retirement LOL.

 

[Greg Riutzel]

I strongly recommend against soldering wire connections. The crimp connector aside; solder will wick up the wire a bit and make it solid at the crimp. This reduced flexibility in the wire will cause cracking and separation down the road as there's a lot of vibration in these machines from the engine, belt drives/accessories, and from field and yard maneuvering. I know there are huge flame wars on the subject in auto and truck forums; the auto and tractor industry has been using crimps successfully for decades. After I make my connections, I give them a squirt with a light wax based moisture barrier in a spray can I got at the local electrical repair shop. That has reduced corrosion considerably on electrical connections for years. Good wire, connectors, and a good tool will give you connections that will last past the life of your ownership.

 

[jerry.a.johnson]

All good thoughts. Thanks guys. Going to de-pin the main switch receptacle (the new one) and do that all over. I've been consistently using heavy wire throughout. Like to over-build. . The main wire from the battery to the solenoid and from the solenoid to the starter I've replaced with nice hefty 6 gauge wire.

Any thoughts on the white wire tied in just below the receptacle? Was it a jumper to invalidate the brake switch? Brake switch looks suspect so will replace that. So far everything on the electrical side is/will be new except for the hour meter, ammeter and starter. Cousin said he replaced the PTO switch not that long ago and it looks really good. New solenoid, voltage regulator, coil & condenser (Kirk style), etc. You know how that goes though. The one thing I don't replace will be an early stick in the spokes.

@Greg Riutzel....see the logic there and the new ratcheting crimpers do a nice job. Hadn't thought about some of the points you made. Thank you. I've always been a strong proponent of a properly soldered connector though. Was going to use some type of dielectric goo in places but I really like the wax based spray you are describing and it would probably attract less dirt.

I'm not sure my wife is liking the fact I've taken over most of the dining room table to re-build a wiring harness but she will survive! I need to take a bunch of days off over the next few months or I lose them. So the tractor project will hopefully progress a little faster now.

 

[mfrade]

A PROPERLY soldered connection, with the vibration experienced in these machines, will break the wire at the adjoining connection of the copper wire and the solder. That's why there are no solder connections in airplanes, if the wire moves / shakes, it will work harden and break. There are MANY debates all over the net regarding this.. and I won't go any further.. my two cents..

 

[jerry.a.johnson]

Thanks @mfrade...Good thing I ordered a new crimper last week then! Should be here in the next few days. That's why I come here. I'm assuming I know very little and the consensus on this forum is the way to proceed.

 

[jerry.a.johnson]

The big chunks got smaller today. And the underside of the front axle sure has taken a beating at some point in the past.

 

[dschwandt]

I think I'd be on the lookout for a different axle!!
That's what happens when the wrong length belt is used or improperly adjusted.

 

[mfrade]

Times 2, get a replacement axle if possible and how are the pulleys on the mule drive?? What a mess.. must've been some noisy with them pulleys dragging against that axle!