1968 Cub cadet 124 Lawn tractor Tranny Problem

[bamirault]

Hi all,
I can't remember last time I used this forum but do remember the help I got was incredible.
I have a circa 1968 Cub cadet narrow frame 124 that I have been nurturing for last 25 years. Engine is still strong, I absolutely love this machine. I am somewhat handy and have maintained this machine religiously since I got it in 1995.
Here iss my problem...……………..
When I put it away for the season last November the clutch did not disengage engine from Tranny. I had to lower the rpms as low as engine would run to get it in gear (they ground but went into 1st) to move machine to storage shed.
Well now that holidays are over I want to tackle this problem and quite frankly don't know where to begin.

Any help where to start is much appreciate.

Bob in Plymouth MA

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bob, WELCOME BACK!

My first thought is that the clutch plates are stuck together. If that's the case you can probably free them up by first depressing the clutch pedal, locking it down then gently try prying the plates apart slightly to see. You could also have someone tow you with the tractor in gear with the clutch depressed, the plates might free up. I like to leave the clutch pedal depressed on my Original to prevent the plates from sticking.

 

[dschwandt]

I agree
I once bought a 100 on the cheap because the owner said the clutch was out of it.
That is all that was wrong.

BTW a 124 is a GT not an LT

 

[kmcconaughey]

I agree
I once bought a 100 on the cheap because the owner said the clutch was out of it.
That is all that was wrong.

BTW a 124 is a GT not an LT

I have moved the thread to the correct forum area.

 

[mfrade]

Hi Ya Bob.. I'm not that far away from you. If you need a hand give a yell. I work in Plymouth too so it wouldn't be so bad to swing over and offer some help. I had the clutch stick together in my 73 once. I chained the tractor to a tree and holding the clutch pedal down let the tractor pull the chain tight. It took a couple "hits" but it did come loose.

 

[bamirault]

Thanks for the ideas to free up the clutch plates. As sooon as the weather is nice on a weekend I will give this a try

Also how hard is it to replace synchros so it goes into gear easily. For the last 3 years it goes into gear hard and only getting worse.

 

[balbrecht]

I hope I understand what your are asking. The gear drive transmissions are not synchronized. If you are grinding gears and such it is because the driveshaft is still spinning from the engine to the transmission when you try to change gears. You could look at adjusting the lever that compresses the clutch spring when you push the pedal to make sure it is fully releasing the clutch plates. If they are dragging you will grind gears. Past that it may be a sign something else is binding along the drive line that won't let the driveshaft spin down. If it won't go into gear at all with the driveshaft stopped I sometimes have to spin the clutch a touch and then it will go. The shift forks and gears do get some wear over 50 years. In my case I usually grind a gear because I'm impatient and I try to shift before the tractor is fully stopped. If you have the "feel" for it you can go from 2nd to 3rd on the roll pretty effectively.

 

[mgonitzke]

If the clutch is adjusted correctly and the driveshaft isn't stopping fairly quickly when you put the clutch in, the pilot bushing in the 3-pin driver needs to be lubricated.

 

[kashaver]

Both the stuck clutch and the dry pilot bushing are good suggestions.
I just want to add:
What kind and how much oil is in the transmission? I ask that because I got an 'O' that 'ground' going into gear and found there was no measureable amount of oil in the transmission. It shifted a lot better with oil dragging the shafts to a stop. (A little longer with no oil and that would be the least of my worries.)

 

[mfrade]

Sounds like you can use a lot of these Bob.. Cub Cadet FAQ #34 should help you.

 

[bamirault]

Both the stuck clutch and the dry pilot bushing are good suggestions.
I just want to add:
What kind and how much oil is in the transmission? I ask that because I got an 'O' that 'ground' going into gear and found there was no measureable amount of oil in the transmission. It shifted a lot better with oil dragging the shafts to a stop. (A little longer with no oil and that would be the least of my worries.)

I replaced the axle seals and oil in transmission 4 years ago. I used whatever oil was recommended in the Owners Manual which I don’t recall at the moment. I was astonished at how clean the oil that I drained was after approx. 45 years.

 

[gloughery]

Reading this thread makes me want to go check that pilot bushing in my tractors! I don’t remember EVER checking that when I oil and grease all my fittings. Gotta grease my steering pin too. Good point!

 

[kphill]

I have a 100 that the clutch sticks from sitting over the winter.. What happens is moisture gets betwen the clutch disc and plate and they stick together.. I just start it up and ride it around the backyard and the vibration and heat expansion frees them up after a couple of minutes and you are then good to go....

 

[gpapa]

According to Brian miller: with the clutch depressed, spray brake clean fluid on the clutch discs and separate with a putty knife-and maybe some light hammer strikes to the putty knife. Also, he suggests storing the tractor with the clutch pedal depressed.

 

[bamirault]

I got a chance to try some of the suggestions this weekend .l had a little success with the putty knife brake cleaner and hammer. I could get the rear plate to move ever so slightly. Did not want to force it. So I Decided to spray a little liquid wrench on the shaft where the pressure plate is supposed to slide. I let it sit over night, tapped it ever so slightly with a hammer and it freed right up and all is good. The rear pressure plate slides freely on the shaft and is not sticking to the clutch at all. I will store it for the rest of winter with pedal depressed. Thank you to the forum people for all the guidance!