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Gerry - hey, I forgot I did drive it in a tractor show parade about 7 or 8 years ago and that probably put about 45min run time on it. I believe Doug Barnett was at that show, but I haven't seen him post recently - maybe he's lurkin'. I hope to get to that show or another one this year. Also, I'm getting closer to removing those grenade gears and if/when I do then I won't be so concerned about the run time.
 
All - say this is a perfect thread to ask about 16hp K341A engines with and without the grenade gears. I've been considering removing mine and possibly adding David Kirk's crankshaft balance plate, as Frank just did. But then I was also thinking several guys have just removed the balance gears and run with the stock crank. I think Kohler just left them out on the later K341's used in the Quiet Line series tractors. I'm wondering how much shaking there actually is when a K341A without balance gears, is used in a 169. Others on the main page of the Forum have talked about how 12hp and 14hp run but I don't recall much if any discussion of how much shaking there is with a 16hp. Can you guys fill me in on your experiences?
 
Harry,
My 16hp QL Never had grenade gears I'm assuming because the shafts they would turn on are not there either. As far as vibration, it varies with rpm and the type of motor mounts installed. I would like to try bolting it to the frame but don't want to break anything.
 
Thanks Keith - ya that's a hard call on the QL units since they use the rubber ISO mounts. I think IH boosted the idle rpm's to 1500 (per the operator or service manual) so there would be no appearance of vibrations. I'm hoping to hear from the 169 owners that have their balance gears removed since as far as I know all 169's would originally have had a balance gear equiped engine.
 
260483.jpg


Wish I had some seat time,,,busy day
 
Harry,

I know this is not a direct answer to you grenade gears question. Dad has a 149 with a replacement crate engine that we installed in the early 80's. Last summer it was due for a minor rebuild as it was using more oil than fuel. When we took it apart it still had the grenade gears in it and we removed them. Before they were removed, the vibration that was "transmitted" into the running boards, after about an hour your feet would tingle because of the vibration. I have not used it for any length of time but have moved it around, and the vibrations that are now present feel like you are sitting on a sander. This is with the standard crank and no balance gears. I am not sure, but would suspect the 16hp would be worse than the 14..... I can compare the vibration difference between a 149 and 1450 and with the ISO mounts it is night and day difference. I do not get the tingling feet from my 1450 at all.
 
Scott N - thanks for the info. It does help.

Jeff - hey in between posting the 169 POTD's would you mind telling me about your 16hp before and after vibrations. I'm certain you removed your grenade gears
 
Harry,
Sorry I have not had the time to open up my k341, but I think the PO told me the gears where gone ,but I am not sure. I hope to op-ebn for inspection this fall.
 
Jeff - well even if you don't know for certain if the gears are gone, could you let me know how much shaking it doing? (And if you know it's rattling and rolling, well then the gears are still in there).
 
I would say that when "working the engine" the shake is about the same as my ggless K321, but my ggless k301 shakes less than the 321.
BUT on start up,idle,and shut down You know it's a big engine shaking.
 
Andy got a facelift yesterday:
260672.jpg

A freshly painted hood bezel and a decal from Mike M. the decal man.
We skipped June and July and went right to the Dog Days of August. 96* in the CubHouse. 89* here in the house. We don't get enough of this to bother with air conditioning.
happy.gif
 
Hey Frank - that's sure nice of ya to help ole Andy out. The dog days are perfect for quick-dry of the paint so it gets real glossy.
 
Working on putting my hydro lift setup in one of my 169's. does anyone have any tricks to getting the lift lever pin (under the dash) back in without having a heck of a time? I think I got it back in the shaft finally but I feel like this may not be the only time I do this.
 
Ryan M.
Back when mine broke and I only had one good arm to work with.
I took a piece of 1/2" cold roll rod 2 ft. long, drilled a hole in the end of it. Stuck a dab of grease in the hole, then the pin.
Stuck in down while resting it on the edge of the dash and smacked it 3 times with a SFM and it's been there ever since.
Under Edit,
Take a nail about the same size and the hole in the rod and lever, cut the head off, add some grease to it and insert it in the lever and rod.
Push it in just enough to get the new pin started and it will slide out the other end without have 6 hands to hold that mess together while you lining up the pin to smack it in.
Chamfer the end of that pin a little so it's self guiding into the lever hole.
 
Ryan and Charlie - that's exactly why my hydro lift handle has a little back/forth wiggle. I just ain't gonna try and replace that pin again, until it breaks. And Charlie - thanks for those tips when I do have to do it.
 
Thank you Charlie for sharing that. I did finally get a pin into it last night that I think will hold but it does have some back and forth movement to it. Like you said, it ain't coming back apart till the darn thing breaks off!!!
 
Uh, Ryan - I don't think Charlie said "until it breaks off" that I can see.
 
Harry- I guess he didn't directly say it, but thats one of the overall messages I took from his advice. I didn't realize that we have to be so critical about how we say stuff on this forum...hopefully the part of your brain that takes sarcasm and jokes starts working again soon.

Now, back on topic to more important things. Where can I find the fittings that go into the ported hydro? Would Charlie happen to have these?
 
Ryan - I'm all for some joking, but what I was trying to point out was that I was the one that said "I ain't gonna try and replace that pin again, until it breaks". Now, I do hope Charlie may just have those hydro parts you need. As for just the fitting, I think the line is already flaired so how do you get the new fitting over the flair?
 

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