Greg, the parts lookup has 4 bolts (p/n: 710-0514, 3/8" -16 x 1") listed without an item number. Not sure but I believe these are the engine mounting bolts.
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1650 in Tough Shape
- Thread starter glippert
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Charlie, aren't those bolts just for the ISO rail mounts to the frame, not the engine mount to the ISO rails?
glippert
Well-known member
That sounds right. I got this tractor with the motor and several other parts in a box. But not these bolts. Thanks for sleuthing.
Sorry, I'll crawl back under my rock now.
Sorry, I'll crawl back under my rock now.
Charlie, don't you dare go crawling under a rock! We need you here.
1"
3/8" coarse thread
3/8" coarse thread
glippert
Well-known member
Since I've split the rear end from the frame to get the frame repaired, as well as the trunion spring slot, and since I have a new cork gasket, I think it would be foolish of me not to replace the gasket (even though I don't know if it needs it). So, I read through the service manual and, more importantly, Gerry Ide's pictorial/tutorial on that task. Guess what? I have a question! The suction tube needs to be removed from the transaxle and loosened at the hydro pump. I'll need to cap off the transaxle when the tube is removed so I don't lose all the HyTran, right? What kind and size is that fitting? What do others use to cap it off?
glippert
Well-known member
Well, the saga continues. I'm ready to bolt the head back onto this thing, but I've somehow lost the spacer for the stud. Can someone tell me how long it should be?
Also, I don't know if it's the original stud. The short end only has 3/4" threaded. That seems short to me, compared to the other nine 1-1/2" bolts.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, this thing came to me as a big box of parts, so I don't know what's original and what has been substituted. Any help will be appreciated.
Also, I don't know if it's the original stud. The short end only has 3/4" threaded. That seems short to me, compared to the other nine 1-1/2" bolts.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, this thing came to me as a big box of parts, so I don't know what's original and what has been substituted. Any help will be appreciated.
I have a 1650 in good shape.
Feel free to reach out if you want me to take picture or check something out around how things should be
Dan
Attachments
1" x 3/8" coarse thread
glippert
Well-known member
Archive through September 17, 2009
Bruce, kraig, I had success by simply swapping the tube end for end. The tube fits very tight in the steering box, while the old lower end was crimped enough to fit a radial bearing to support the upper end on the shaft... win-win... HTH
Scott Tanner
The steering tube on my 1650 was very loose, meaning it slid right out of the steering gearbox. I knew I'd seen conversations about this problem in the past, so I went archiving. Some folks used short screws and/or JB Weld to hold the tube in the box, but Scott Tanner shared his repair method - flip the tube, end for end. I did this today and it worked great. The crimped end (the original bottom) was actually a little too small to fit a bearing in, so I used an impact socket that fit inside the tube. I slid the socket in about halfway, then, with the tube laying flat on the bench, I rotated the tube slowly while pounding on the exposed end of the socket. It worked great - opened the end just enough to firmly hold a wheel bearing I recently took off my Grandson's 1450. I originally planned to also use screws and JB Weld, but I had to use a 3 pound hammer to get the tube fully installed, so I felt comfortable relying on the friction fit. Once I got it back in the tractor, I moved the hydraulic lift lever up and down, and there was no sign of movement. THANK YOU SCOTT TANNER!
Bruce, kraig, I had success by simply swapping the tube end for end. The tube fits very tight in the steering box, while the old lower end was crimped enough to fit a radial bearing to support the upper end on the shaft... win-win... HTH
Scott Tanner
The steering tube on my 1650 was very loose, meaning it slid right out of the steering gearbox. I knew I'd seen conversations about this problem in the past, so I went archiving. Some folks used short screws and/or JB Weld to hold the tube in the box, but Scott Tanner shared his repair method - flip the tube, end for end. I did this today and it worked great. The crimped end (the original bottom) was actually a little too small to fit a bearing in, so I used an impact socket that fit inside the tube. I slid the socket in about halfway, then, with the tube laying flat on the bench, I rotated the tube slowly while pounding on the exposed end of the socket. It worked great - opened the end just enough to firmly hold a wheel bearing I recently took off my Grandson's 1450. I originally planned to also use screws and JB Weld, but I had to use a 3 pound hammer to get the tube fully installed, so I felt comfortable relying on the friction fit. Once I got it back in the tractor, I moved the hydraulic lift lever up and down, and there was no sign of movement. THANK YOU SCOTT TANNER!
glippert
Well-known member
Thank you!
glippert
Well-known member
Does anyone know the length of the spacer for the stud in the head of a K341AQS?
13/32" i.d. x 5/8" o.d. x 23/32" height
https://www.kohler-engine-parts.ope...r-part-2511214s-spacer-406-x-625-x-719-p-4528
glippert
Well-known member
Bill - THANKS!
