1512 lift slow

[bpientka]

Out plowing this morning with my 1512. Had issues where the plow would not lift. Here is the biggest issue. It would work 90% of the time. Than just stop. The tractor would still move. The plow would go down not up. I have my plow set up to run on the front hydraulics for lift. I also checked the other lift which has no load (no connected to anything) it also doesn't work.

Ideas?

 

[dtanner]

Bernie P
have you checked the fluid level in the rear end . The dip stick is under the seat next to the fuel tank. you just installed power angle ? if there is any air it will work out after just a few turns of the blade . Did you 1512 come with front ports ? or did you install them yourself getting the lines and tees from Aaron ?
when was the back cover on the rear end removed and cleaned and new fluid added ?

 

[bpientka]

Factory installed front ports. Did check the fluid and it was just a hair under full.

 

[bpientka]

I think I have to break out the pressure gauge and check.

 

[bpientka]

So what I have is a 1512 with dual hydraulics. I have a homemade plow which I use a small cylinder connected to the front ports to lift the plow. The plow is manually angled.

Ok tested pressure on the pump. 200psi in neutral and with the cylinder maxed around 700 psi. This psi is a little higher than spec. While testing pressure had no problems. Lift was nice and fast. Removed the implement lift relief valve. Looks good. Parked tractor for a couple hrs. More snow came so just went out to plow. We have heavy wet snow and when I push to tractor (plow hard) this is when the lift problem occurs. If I take is easy (plowing) for a few minutes the lift works fine again.

Now for the real kicker. If the lift is slow. While I am hold the lever up lift I push the other level down. The lift works fine.

What does all this mean?

 

[dtanner]

Bernie

check the manual;I think your relife charge pessure should be much higher than 200 psi .

 

[bpientka]

Thanks,

The 200 psi is only testing the charge pressure. The manual says 90 to 200 psi with hydraulic control valve in neutral.

I was getting 700 when the control valve is raised to the max of the cylinder stroke. Manual say 500 to 625 psi.
Which is why I said I am a little high.

 

[dschwandt]

Bad/old hose??? Deteriorated on inside and collapsing internally when pressured???
Kink in line somewhere??

Just a 1st thought here

 

[bpientka]

Both hydraulic circuits are slow. So they are different sets of rubber hoses.

Regardless I will check hoses and lines for any damage.

 

[digger]

I'm not much on hydraulics, but "While I am hold the lever up lift I push the other level down. The lift works fine."

That tells me that you have a bypass/relief issue inside your valve body, or one of your hard lines or hoses is kinked or collapsed.

I know on larger tractors, if one of your shut off valves is partially off, the fluid will bypass and take the easiest route to make something work.

I have also seen the ball in the connection fitting stick closed as well.

Other than that, BEATS ME! LOL

 

[mhomrighausen]

Okay... Now If I recall correctly the hydraulic line tips are not rounded however have a pointed tip on both the male and female end. Very familiar on older FARMALL lineage tractors. Those tips aren't very practical and that is why they aren't used in agricultural fields anymore. The slightest wear and they can misaligned and cause field failure when being used. THAT is why the ball type of tips are used now. So one thing I would first check and it is a simple check would be to reverse the hoses. If your pointed tips have wear or dings thus flattening them even a little bit can cause problems.

Keep everyone posted and if that is the problem go to the rounded ball tips on BOTH male and female.

 

[bpientka]

I switch the hoses around at the front quick connectors. Now up is fine but sometime down is slow. While checking everything I did notice the levers were hitting the top edge of the console. Will adjust the valve location shortly so the levers don't hit but things have been crazy. Power first went out early AM Wednesday can back for most of Thursday but is currently out. School canceled for kids Wednesday-Friday.

Between clearing snow, cutting trees and keeping gas in the generator I have been busy. Hopefully once power back on I will look at the valve location.

Either way the 1512 and 1711 have been great snow removal machines!

 

[mhomrighausen]

If you're now experiencing the same trouble with the hoses switched then more then likely it is one of your tip ends that has been worn or damaged. Check the tips and if they are damaged ( just a little bit) can make a huge difference. If the tips are the pointed tips, then one can expect to have hookup issues. With the big older FARMALL and other tractors those pointed tips got some wear and wouldn't always slign properly. Off just a little bit wouldn't cause the couplers to connect which they still easily would. Those pesky tips were the problem. That is why using the ball type rounded tip male/female connections work best. DO NOT try to use one of each. Then you can really create problems. I learned all this stuff many years ago. I asked a LOT of questions to the mechanics at the implement dealerships. Summing up.... your problems are with the connectors. If you want to keep the OEM style then purchase two for the same coupling. Purchasing just one always leads to trouble. Thank YOU for the update.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Bernie P. Any updates on your problem with the slow lifting? Have you solved your problem? Did my suggestions help at all? It makes things pretty hard to want to continue to post and help others when I never hear of a problem being solved. <u>AND</u> I'm sure that I'm not the only one to feel the same way. Not mad... just hurt that no reply has ever been given.

 

[bpientka]

I am sorry about not posting the results but until 15 minutes ago I had none. Like everyone things get busy at work, and with family.

So what did I figure out?

I pulled the battery to see the hydraulic valve. It seemed that due to valve placement on the steering shaft I was getting more movement one way verse the other on the hydraulic valve. I then noticed that the nut on the clamp at the top of steering column was not tight.

I loosened the u bolts holding the valve. repositioned the valve and retightened the unbolts. I then tightened the nut holding the steering column.

It seems to be working now but until I get some plow time on the tractor I won't know for sure.

I have a few pictures which I will try and post tonight.

As always, I wanted to thank everyone for the help.

 

[mhomrighausen]

A BIG THANK YOU!!!

 

[jlspicer]

Bernie,
Glad to hear/hope it was that simple. I have seen that valve slide down before and contact the dash so........
And I agree with ya on the life thing. Work, wife, two school aged kids, sometimes I can't get any cubtime for a month at a time. So I'd probably be in the same boat as you so don't feel bad.

 

[jchamberlin]

Yes, but at least he has syrup at the end of the trail. I'm jealous

 

[mhomrighausen]

I do agree with life getting into the way of things. It happens to me on a daily basis just the same as everyone else. However one thing I've learned in life is to keep in touch even if it is a simple.... "Sorry about not keeping everyone updated. just so danged busy." Remember awhile back when I stopped posting for a bit? Well... since a few people think that I'm a qualified hydrauilc/hydrostatic person that I don't mind helping troubleshooting. Truth be told... I DON'T mind helping. I DO like to be updated because in my work world timely troubleshooting means the difference between a line down and a customer not getting their orders filled. Therefore I like a reasonably quick update. Once again even if it is ... "Sorry for no update. Just too busy." Walk a mile in my shoes and you'll understand.... If you ask for hydrostatic/hydraulic help please remember that if I respond, I also like reasonably quick feedback because I deem that if you ask the question you must want a fairly prompt reply to help get your Cub Cadet up and running. After all I'm trying to diagnose YOUR problem without actually seeing the situation. So if what I suggest doesn't work then we simply have another route to quickly go to. Waiting a month or more... I'll sum it up like this. Over two months ago a gentleman asked me a hydro question and I replied. I finally e:mailed again and was told they simply hadn't the time due to another project coming up. Over two years ago a guy with a green tractor e:mailed me asking where to find some very hard to get parts for his early JD 140 hydro unit. I referred him to a person that if anyone could help him find those parts that he could. NEITHER one of us heard from him since even though I twice e:mailed him asking if he found the parts.

 

[bpientka]

Just finished plowing 4 inches of wet heavy snow. The lift worked perfect! Seems to actually work better in both directions. I now wonder with the upper clamp loose if the entire steering tube was moving.

With the upper clamp tight and the valve repositioned slightly my problem is solved.

Onto the next project. I need to replace the fuel line from the tank to the electric fuel pump. Unfortunately I have to remove my home made 3 pt hitch to get to the bottom of the tank.