1512 diesel power steering ?

[dtanner]

Steve B

the ball will be out from the rear end the same distance that it is in this picture;It just won`t move around like it does of the back of the Cat O. I hope with this bolted where Aaron has holes already drill for this hitch that it will be plenty strong . I need to pick up some grade 8 bolts in the am and bolt this fast. Since the cat O is mounted to the frame of the tractor I hope this will be plenty strong. Let me know if you think I`am going to have an issue.

If you think I need to I will add a brace under the adjustable link to the hitch out at an angle to relieve some stress . the ball will be back 15" from the hitch .

 

[mgonitzke]

Adding a piece from near the ball part of the hitch to the top link bracket would help a lot. You'll probably bend the Cat-0 hitch otherwise.

 

[dtanner]

Matt Gonitzke

Aaron makes great Cat O and tractor parts. I have pulled my trailer many time loaded with crushed stone and the only issue was the chains that keep the draw bar centred . I will add a piece of flat bar up to under where the adjustment is made to the top of the hitch adapter.

I have filled that trailer many times and think I can use the hitch and not break anything I`am hoping .

 

[dtanner]

Matt Gonitzke

to pick your brain here ; What if I added two gussets so that adjustable link could drop down to support the hitch I`am installing. I could add another adjustable link under the one that is there. ????

 

[jjsmith]

Don, I'm not sure what exacty matt had in mind but I think like you said basically another top link angled down to the hitch would work very well. It would jus attach at the lower most hole.

 

[sblunier]

It will be just as ugly side to side when you turn, even if you add a brace down from the top link. Turn hard to the R or L with a load like in the pic and you'll bend the extended drawbar to the side.....

There is A LOT of extra force on that long of a drawbar.

I would have made a 3pt lock out and used the 3pt arms.......or tale them off and use the lower mounting points for side bracing.

Locking up the 3pt. still seems the easiest.....replace the chains with struts (just don't lift or lower it)

 

[dtanner]

Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow"
the problems are I had the hydraulic lines made up for the Cat-o hitch; so if I shorten the length from the cat-o to the ball for the dump trailer I will need the lines cut and new ends put on.Hauling the dump trailer from Aarons Cat -o it would swing around because of the chains.So I thought I could add the trailer hitch at the same length (15" back) and just use the lift to move the cat -O out of the way. If you think I will bend the Cat -O face I will have to take it off and weld a thicker plate behind where the trailer hitch bracket bolts that I just got from Aaron. I guess I need Aaron to tell me if this needs to be done.The Cat-O is bolted to the frame and to the rear end and I think is quite strong made. I hope to hear from Aaron if I need to mod this set up. I will be removing the fenders and all tin from the 1512 soon to install the power steering and put on a better set of fenders . I have point savers coming for the 125 and 129 loader. I will be busy this winter with all this and the 123 .It is so nice to be retired.

 

[sblunier]

Don,

You need 2 heavy flat bars like this....

A similar set up is used on Ford 8N tractors for drawbar work.

Pin them through the bottom top link hole and sandwich them between the adapter and 3pt. arms.

They will lock the 3pt. rigid and will take out the sway, especially if you tighten up the chains too.

Your drawbar length puts a lot of strain on the attachment plate in both the vertical and horizontal planes....very large bending moments when you shock load the trailer tongue vertically and horizontally.

I am a big fan of Aarons stuff, and this is not about the quality of what he makes...it's about the application. That's a lot of aditional stress that far back, especially with a loaded dump trailer.

Do an internet search on Ford 8N hitch parts for more info.

 

[sblunier]

 

[dtanner]

Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow"

I see now what you are thinking; I still will put in the hitch attachment bracket I got from Aaron for the ball. but now I need to put the ball in place in the receiver to see if I can attach them to the ball so I can still lift the bar. I do like your idea with the flat bar bent and drilled for support for the drag bar.

I do wish I could draw my idea now that you put me in the correct direction. ; I will do a mock up and then ask for your opinion if that is

 

[dtanner]

Steve B

I put the hitch on today ;I wanted to see if I could leave the Cat-O in-place and still haul a trailer without the Cat-O getting in the way. I think I`am good to go. I will leave the hyd hoses long for now and have them cut shorter when I take this tractor apart to install my other fenders and get the couplers locked in place.
Let me know if you think this will work; I used all grade 8 hardware to install the hitch so it should be strong.

 

[sblunier]

Much Much better than that big arm sticking out in back!!!!

 

[dtanner]

Took the side pannle off my diesel today to check the oil and when I tried to start the tractor I saw sparks down by the starter. I found the top starter bolt had sheared off . I did buy a grade 8 bolt to replace the broken one.

 

[dtanner]

Some day I would like to add a turbo to my 1512 and would love to see some pictures and info on what smart car turbo I should buy ( what years ect). I would like to know what they work like with a turbo installed. how mush HP will the turbo add and if it would be much harder on fuel. I have no worries with the cv drive shaft holding up to a mild boost .

 

[jdiederichs]

Don,

I have had great results using a different turbo. Do a search for a RHB32 turbo made by IHI -they are a leader in the turbocharger world. You can often fine them very reasonable on the evilpay site.

They are sized properly for the D-600 and 640 Kubota diesels. The ones I had used were from the old Chevy Sprint compact cars, 3 cylinder 1 liter Suzuki engines. They will provide ~8psi boost making ~ 4 more hp out of the 1512.That is w/o adding fuel, more IS avaialble. BTW, the whistle these make is a great attention getter.

 

[dtanner]

Jim D

I have been wanting to do that mod soon after I heard one running . I think they sound great . I will look to see what it would cost to give my 1512 a turbo. Thanks a bunch

Some day I will need to know how to give the 1512 some more fuel lol.

 

[dtanner]

I had a great talk to Charlie tonight abut 1.5 hrs lol. we were talking about my diesel and why I felt I should install a turbo; Well He ask me when I set the valves last .

And how important the valve setting is for power. Well I have never checked the valves .I do know setting the vales on the 5.9 Cummings made a big difference and I better now check the 1512 to see where they are set.I will have to try his idea on why my 125 refuses to start. I have tried Matt G`s method of setting the points but the dang thing still won`t run. I have the fenders for my 1512 just about ready to paint . slow but sure I go !

 

[fcurrier]

I need a special favor this morning. Seems Don started this power steering thread then kind of hijacked it himself with the rear hitch. Now he has a guy that can do the power steering mod if he has enough information - hopefully in the form of detailed pics. If you can help please do, either in the form of pics here or if it's easier in an email to Don Tanner - his address is in his profile.

 

[sblunier]

 

[jdiederichs]

Excellent diagram and pictures Steve!!