I did in fact check the ring gap and the rod and connecting cap are on according to the marks with hole towards the cam side,going to look at the piston now
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14hs 321a is to tight
- Thread starter RAllison
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I took the piston off and connected the rod to the crankshaft...it's bound. All I can think is that it was on backwards when I first disassembled it and that's the way it mated
I'm gonna turn it around to verify that but I know I can't put it back together that way
jkoenig
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Robert,
I’m still stuck on finding out if the problem is width, or diameter. Do you have Plastigage? Does the rod/cap combo feel bound against the edges, or around the journal?
I’m still stuck on finding out if the problem is width, or diameter. Do you have Plastigage? Does the rod/cap combo feel bound against the edges, or around the journal?
No I don't,I don't even know how to use it. The rod and crank rotate with everything facing the right way and the piston off. Once I put the piston on ( which does slide in the bore) and torque the cap...it's all bound again
I could see where it was rubbing on the outside edges of the rod bore
jkoenig
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You see rub marks on the edge of the rod, cap, or crank thrust surface?
/\ Plastigage is a thin bead of compressible plastic that you place across a crank journal surface, then install the bearing cap, torque to spec, and remove cap again. The package Has a scale to read the clearance according to how wide the strip has become. It can also tell you if the clearances are even, or tapered. There are different sizes.
/\ Plastigage is a thin bead of compressible plastic that you place across a crank journal surface, then install the bearing cap, torque to spec, and remove cap again. The package Has a scale to read the clearance according to how wide the strip has become. It can also tell you if the clearances are even, or tapered. There are different sizes.
Ok I'll have to go get some,auto parts store carry it? Marks are on the connecting rod
Just for the sake of eliminating things,I put the piston on a rod that I knew to be.005 to.007 oversized...put it in,torqued it and it bound up
I guess I have a question for anyone that knows. When I bought this block it had cast flanges on the bottom of it that I had to saw off so it would fit down in the frame. The block wound up being out of a John Deere, is the block configuration somehow different ?
The crankshaft went right into that block and I had end play in specs...I don't get it
jkoenig
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Yes, many auto parts stores carry Plastigage.
Is that piston new, or being reused? Standard, or oversized? Brand? Any chance it’s crooked/defective?
Could the block have been bored crooked?
Please share as many details as you can think of. Now it’s a Deere block. I think Deere blocks have been used in Cub Cadets before.
You say you had end play within spec. When the crank/rod/piston is ”locked up“ Is the bearing plate on, or do you still have the crankcase open?
Where are these rub marks :
Rod to block? Rod to crank?
Is that piston new, or being reused? Standard, or oversized? Brand? Any chance it’s crooked/defective?
Could the block have been bored crooked?
Please share as many details as you can think of. Now it’s a Deere block. I think Deere blocks have been used in Cub Cadets before.
You say you had end play within spec. When the crank/rod/piston is ”locked up“ Is the bearing plate on, or do you still have the crankcase open?
Where are these rub marks :
Rod to block? Rod to crank?
I read through this again. You are using the old crank and rod but you didn't say if you have a new piston. When you put it together in the block, look at the piston end of the rod and see if there is about equal clearance on both sides of the rod to the piston bosses. I think the rod is getting shifted all the way to one side and binding when you tighten it. Don't know if this could be because of a difference in the block or if it's a new piston it could be bad.
New standard piston,after market,bearing plate is on,head is off,I polished the rub marks on the rod,the piston is the second one I've tried...I may have to get a Kohler
The rod is centered on the piston pin
jkoenig
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You sure have my interest. If you were on the Southern end of IN, I would love to come help with this in person.
New standard piston. So the block was not bored, maybe just cleaned up a bit? Where is the old piston...does it fit? I’d take a used Kohler piston over a new aftermarket most times.
New standard piston. So the block was not bored, maybe just cleaned up a bit? Where is the old piston...does it fit? I’d take a used Kohler piston over a new aftermarket most times.
Were both pistons you tried new aftermarket? It could be the pin holes aren't bored square to the piston. I would have thought bent rod but you tried another with the same result. Were the rub marks on the rod at the top on one side and bottom on the other?
The block came just that,a block. I bought it cause the motor I took out was already bored.030 over and on the outer limits of that,plus it had a knock. This block is within factory specs and all I did was cross hatch it lightly
Yeah they're both after market. Some light polishing on the rod edges got rid of the rub
Something I think is out of round and I'm not finding it,may take it to the machine shop
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