149 that just clicks

[Mike Reed]

I have a 1974 Cub Cadet 149. For a long time, when trying to start it would click, I would giggle the wires and it'd fire off. Now, no matter the amount of jiggling and sliding it just clicks. I put a hot wire on the the starter and made it turn over, but still no start. I Plan on replacing the ground and hot wires next weekend. Is there any other cause others have encountered? I've searched but didn't get what I was looking for. Need to get this beast going again, as I picked up a good QA-42A today and want to be ready with a good reliable snow blowing unit my wife and kid can run when I'm away 13 hours a day.

 

[danderson]

When you ran the hot wire to the starter did you have power to the coil? No start without. I would check the ignition switch.

 

[dschwandt]

I would suspect the wiring at the solenoid as well as total battery ground and hot wires

If you want it to start reliably it would be best to inspect/repair/clean or replace all That appear compromised as needed plus have a good fully charged battery to begin with.
Check with a test lamp for juice at the coil positive side with key in the run position. On the negative side while cranking lamp should flash indicating points are working
If it does not flash while cranking and you do have juice at the positive side, the points are the culprit and I would suggest "static timing" the engine as well.

 

[gary noblit]

Mike,you gave a clue..do you remember which wires you wiggled?? If you do then you know where to start....A visual is not always good enough....As David said clean/repair or replace.....corrosion is a fact of life

 

[mgonitzke]

That series had insulation on the wiring that does not age well. If you truly want a reliable tractor, I would replace the entire wiring harness, rather than kludging a new wire in here and there. If one wire is bad, the whole thing is probably bad, even if it's not visible.

 

[Mike Reed]

+Danderson, I probably didn't have it hot to the coil. +dschwandt outstanding info, I will definitely will get a testlight on the proper points. and replace the battery ground asap, +gary noblit Yes, I would wiggle the the positive off the battery through the frame, and now no success. Extreme movement still no spark. I believe corrosion is rampant. +mgonitzke I jumped on your info and searched for a wiring harness, and all I can seem to find is narrow frame harnesses.

To be honest, I'd prefer to have 1 good narrow frame cub than my Original and 149 because the parts and options seems to be so much plentiful. But, yet, I do love both of my machines.

Thank you, each one of you, for yet again making me realize the value that supporting this forum is. I'm overtaxed right now, as my 2002 VW Jetta TDI is running too cold for 50+mpg and takes priority, but with snow looming this weekend I'm all in on the starting of the Cadet this weekend or next, and it's you guys I have to thank.

 

[Oak]

I don't see the harness on Mr. Charlies site but check with these people.
http://www.porchelectric.com/ihcub.php

 

[Mike Reed]

I don't see the harness on Mr. Charlies site but check with these people.
http://www.porchelectric.com/ihcub.php

Thanks, Oak. I found the Harness there. I am going to try replacing the the big red wire and ground wire first, but if that doesn't do it, I'm getting the harness.

 

[dschwandt]

Check first that the red wire has clean bright and tight connections on all the ends,
Same goes for the ground wire as well.

 

[eweiss]

might ohm out the wire to see if there's too much resistance or even broken internally.

 

[Mike Reed]

Ok! So I purchased a new wiring harness from Porch (thanks +Oak ) and it is totally worth the money. I also replaced all grounds and positive cables. The problem now is the key still doesn't start, nor click. Turning the key does send a pulse to my great wire on the voltage regular (I can't remember if positive or negative, I hate my new fangled voltage light. But there is nothing on that wire when key is off. Not pictured in my pics is I did run a wire from my charging meter+ to the battery input of the starter solenoid, and when I turn the key "on" I see it in the plus. I also put a jump box on the battery while testing. I use my StarterSwitch 3000 (aka, a screwdriver arcing the 2 posts on the solenoid, and it starts. Am I missing something from the starter switch or maybe it's bad? The blue wire going on the starter side of the solenoid is supposed to be light blue, but there is no light blue, just a regular blue matching the blue that is on the middle post of the regulator (which should be light blue as well). On the second pic there shows a light blue wire, but it is from the photo edit and is actually the grey wire meeting the green at the charge indicator. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Following my service manual diagram I have every wire required (brand new) in place. One thing to note is the safety switches haven't been on my 149 in many years, before I owned it. So, the orange/black cable is on the solenoid, but the 2-pin that comes out has the wires is looped, exactly like it was when I got it.

 

[Ken Black]

here is link to wiring on this site. and the image for your trator from this site. grab a ohm meter. disconnect battery. set ohm meter to diode. makes noise then.. and go one wire at a time. i dont go by the colors on the pic. only to follow on pic. as iam not sure its the same color map or faded so on ... the blue wire tho goes to the VR under ur butt. at least it should i think
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/threads/rolands-fancy-colored-wiring-diagrams.7027/