• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

1450 vibrations

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I contacted my buddy who builds pullers and he gave me three companies, none of which are i the Nashville area. Vogel Manufacturing in Effingham, IL; Lakota Racing in Carrollton, OH; and Tooter's Mower Parts & Repair, Owensboro, KY. You can Google these for contact info and I understand they have Facebook pages, but since I don't do social media I can't verify that. Hope this helps.
 
Yep, mid range is the worst. There's no way around it. When my engine is at idle, it's fairly smooth, a tad lumpy but nothing to rattle the tractor. Going to mid range everything rattles including my a$$. At 3,600 rated RPM it all smooths out nicely. When I got the tractor the iso mounts were shot and the only way to keep it from shaking all over was to keep it at top RPM. Swapping out the gears for the balance plate helped as the engine balance/feel is a bit better than stock. The new iso mounts took care of everything else as long as I stayed in idle range or top RPM.

You can get the rotating assembly balanced maybe even better than OEM. You will still be stuck with unbalanced lateral forces at 90* and 270* from TDC as the crank rotates through those planes On top of that there's dynamic unbalance from different piston speeds at TDC and BDC. It is the nature of all piston driven engines and there's no economical way I know to get around it other than multi cylinders that can cancel each other's forces depending on the crank plane to make a smoother running engine. Other than that, just stay out of mid range
 
Checked out the balancing company and the cost is around 200 to 300 dollars to balance the crank. If you add gaskets and other thing needed along with tires, belts, filters, oils and other odds and ends I will have more invested than the tractor is worth.
Think I will take Greg's advise.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top