1450 Tow Lever and Dump Valve Lever on 1974-What else Missing?

[Johnnyboy]

Just got this 1450 with what I assume is not stock parts shown in 2 pictures to push valves down so tractor can roll freely, but wonder if any readers out there could take a few shots of what the real set up looks like as I want to make it as close as stock again. There is the hole on the right side of cover that Tow Lever would stick through, and the ears on the underside where I think the Dump Valve Lever would attach with a pin onto the Tow Lever. I am curious too if stock ones stay put when engaged by pulling lever up or down? and have a spring or?
Year is a 1974
Thanks ahead of time for any help or pointers

 

[digger]

Just got this 1450 with what I assume is not stock parts shown in 2 pictures to push valves down so tractor can roll freely, but wonder if any readers out there could take a few shots of what the real set up looks like as I want to make it as close as stock again. There is the hole on the right side of cover that Tow Lever would stick through, and the ears on the underside where I think the Dump Valve Lever would attach with a pin onto the Tow Lever. I am curious too if stock ones stay put when engaged by pulling lever up or down? and have a spring or?
Year is a 1974
Thanks ahead of time for any help or pointers

You need the flapper and the flapper dump lever. Contact Rob Houtz (Cubcadetusedparts.com) at the sponsor button above and he can fix you right up.

The buttons have to be able to raise for the tractor to move. Down to release pressure to roll it.

 

[digger]

Just got this 1450 with what I assume is not stock parts shown in 2 pictures to push valves down so tractor can roll freely, but wonder if any readers out there could take a few shots of what the real set up looks like as I want to make it as close as stock again. There is the hole on the right side of cover that Tow Lever would stick through, and the ears on the underside where I think the Dump Valve Lever would attach with a pin onto the Tow Lever. I am curious too if stock ones stay put when engaged by pulling lever up or down? and have a spring or?
Year is a 1974
Thanks ahead of time for any help or pointers

I forgot to add the pic.

 

[dschwandt]

Are your valves short and have the little buttons in top of them?
Post up a photo of them.
If not, some one has swapped them out for the automatic style which are much taller, if so, the valve dump and lever are not needed.
If the buttons are present you will need to ad the parts to make the dump functional.

Welcome aboard!!

 

[digger]

Are your valves short and have the little buttons in top of them?
Post up a photo of them.
If not, some one has swapped them out for the automatic style which are much taller, if so, the valve dump and lever are not needed.
If the buttons are present you will need to ad the parts to make the dump functional.

Welcome aboard!!

 

[Johnnyboy]

I forgot to add the pic.
View attachment 136615

Thank you Digger. That is helpful!

 

[Johnnyboy]

View attachment 136617

View attachment 136617

Thank you Dschwandt I have the ones that press down, and have seen replacement ones that do not but don't want to change since these work.

 

[Johnnyboy]

Thanks to all for helping. I found that the parts I need can be made or purchased on ebay. I also figured what the parts were and how to set them that came with the cover and someone customized a fair working set-up. With the stock or replacement parts being over $40 (lever at least $10 and cam lever $30, and the word being that the lever has to be held up the whole time while moving tractor I am okay with mine for now.

 

[rfunk]

I've thought of customizing a small wood block to hold up the lever - then drilling a hole in it and using it for a key fob. Keeps the tool where you'll need it . . . (149)

 

[digger]

Yeah! God forbid if anyone fixed it back the way it came from the factory!

 

[Johnnyboy]

I've thought of customizing a small wood block to hold up the lever - then drilling a hole in it and using it for a key fob. Keeps the tool where you'll need it . . . (149)

Good Idea, and mine on the cover someone made a block and threaded a thumb screw to tighten down to hold valve buttons down

 

[rchristensen]

I suppose you could find an old JD-140 and cut out the screw down valve release from the floor pan and weld it into a Cub Cadet valve pan cover. Just saying..

 

[rfunk]

Ach, yes, what I meant, was with the original parts in place, it is nice not to have to HOLD the lever to move it around.

 

[jvanheemst]

Hi, I have used a bungee cord to temporarily hold the level in place when I needed to pull my 1450 out of the mud with my truck. Maybe not the permanent solution you are looking for but it works.

I do like everyones thoughts of some kind of permanent fix as it is badly needed at times but I also didn't want to modify my mostly original Cub.

 

[Johnnyboy]

That sounds good and I do use that idea with my John Deere to hold the plastic deck chute flap up on its spring up position. I can appreciate original left alone too.

 

[mgonitzke]

Or better yet, replace the release valves with the later automatic style that don't require a lever at all.

 

[Johnnyboy]

Or better yet, replace the release valves with the later automatic style that don't require a lever at all.

Wouldn't that be nice? But so far "ain't broke" and cannot justify that yet. Need to deal with an oil leak first to get to.

 

[tritter]

I made a small wood block that fits under the lever so I can push the tractor around the garage. I think the buttons are supposed to stay depressed after you push them down, then they pop up when you start it and hydraulic pressure comes up(somebody correct me if needed). Seems like those buttons want to pop up sometimes when pushing it around.

 

[Johnnyboy]

That is a good idea and thanks for sharing-like your picture too, Baby Moons!

 

[mcafone]

Some times they'll sneak back up after pressing them down,not always.
But normal.