127 that goes no where.

[rbowser]

Does the hydro ever just go out on these tractors?? My son's 127 just stopped moving one day. We tore the fenders off and the linkage still moves all the right components. Admittedly there is a lot of slop, but it moves the linkage enough it should get SOME forward motion on the tires. but nothing happens. any thoughts?

He wants to convert it to a manual if the hydro is shot.

 

[dschwandt]

Broken coiled spring (spirol) pin in the drive line is likely the issue
Either at the rear coupler where there are 2, or at the front coupler.

 

[gary noblit]

richard , simple test: jack up the rearend...At an idle ,try it in gear.With no weight it may rotate the wheels. If it does the question is where is it sheared.Follow Daves advice... If it doesn't ...ouch!! but you may be able to turn a wheel by hand (not running) to find the issue..

 

[rbowser]

I will look at both of these recommendations this evening and post results. I have a feeling something might have broken internal. All my boys like to treat it like a Super C more than anything else. It no longer is a mower.....

 

[dschwandt]

Check to see if the splined shaft that protrudes from the rear of the transmission
is turning when the engine is running.
If not, you have a broken pin in the driveline
Be sure you use a coiled spring pin as a replacement and not just a hardware store roll pin or a bolt.
Should be a 1/4 x 1-1/4 pin
You are lucky it's not a NF Cub as they are a real PITA to remove/replace!

 

[Ken Black]

i thought 127s were NFs ? am i wrong on this . if so.. like to confirm this as i dont want to say i have NFs and there not..

Check to see if the splined shaft that protrudes from the rear of the transmission
is turning when the engine is running.
If not, you have a broken pin in the driveline
Be sure you use a coiled spring pin as a replacement and not just a hardware store roll pin or a bolt.
Should be a 1/4 x 1-1/4 pin
You are lucky it's not a NF Cub as they are a real PITA to remove/replace!

 

[danderson]

127 is indeed a narrow frame.

 

[hydroharry]

Richard - did someone play with the hydro release buttons? Did they happen to pull on that little lever on the side of the frame?
It could be that your buttons are stuck in the recessed position. I'd certainly have a look at the 2 buttons on the top of the hydro pump to make sure they are both popped up.
If they are both stuck down you can try moving the hydro control lever quickly back and forth (forward to reverse to forward) several times with the engine running while sitting on the tractor (with the fenders and seat installed). This may cause the buttons to pop back up. If they don't then you'll have to clean the buttons off and see if you can get them to release. They may have gotten rusted/corroded and stuck down.
Let us know what you find.

 

[dschwandt]

Yes they are NF's
But they were the first Cubs with the removable fender pan that completely exposes the hydro setup linkage and all.
I should have noted that.

 

[rbowser]

Well, Isaac figured it out before I could even look at it tonight.
dschwandt - you were right. Rolled pin in the front drive shaft. see pic attached.
hydroharry - That things hydro release buttons..... , the lever broke years ago. it kinda flops around now.

Thanks guys for the assistance.

 

[Ken Black]

iam not sure what otheres would say..
here it is BUT I WILL hahhaha
take the shaft out.. or brace it really soild. so as not to bend it tryin to get the pin out..
but cool its simple cheap fix.

Well, Isaac figured it out before I could even look at it tonight.
dschwandt - you were right. Rolled pin in the front drive shaft. see pic attached.
hydroharry - That things hydro release buttons..... , the lever broke years ago. it kinda flops around now.

Thanks guys for the assistance.

 

[dschwandt]

Looks like your front coupling looks a bit worn as well not to mention the missing bolt(s) (should be 4) to the drive cup on the engine.
That may have something to do with why the pin broke.
Be sure and support the driveshaft when removing the pin.
Do you have a set of punches?
I believe that front pin is a 1/4 x 1-1/2" hardened dowel pin and not a spirol (coiled) pin.

 

[rbowser]

iam not sure what otheres would say..
here it is BUT I WILL hahhaha
take the shaft out.. or brace it really soild. so as not to bend it tryin to get the pin out..
but cool its simple cheap fix.

That is his job to figure out how to do. He broke it.

 

[rbowser]

Looks like your front coupling looks a bit worn as well not to mention the missing bolt(s) (should be 4) to the drive cup on the engine.
That may have something to do with why the pin broke.
Be sure and support the driveshaft when removing the pin.
Do you have a set of punches?
I believe that front pin is a 1/4 x 1-1/2" hardened dowel pin and not a spirol (coiled) pin.

Thanks for the information on the pin. I have the tools to get it out all the punches and everything. He will have to make sure to use the right one. I will also advise him to add some more bolts.

 

[tkhoffman]

Check to see if the splined shaft that protrudes from the rear of the transmission
is turning when the engine is running.
If not, you have a broken pin in the driveline
Be sure you use a coiled spring pin as a replacement and not just a hardware store roll pin or a bolt.
Should be a 1/4 x 1-1/4 pin
You are lucky it's not a NF Cub as they are a real PITA to remove/replace!

Curious. Why is a roll pin not as good as the pins with several coils?

 

[JPrattico]

The coiled spiral pin is known to be a lot stronger because it has several coils. People have tried roll pins in the past but they don't last long at all.

As was stated above, however, the pin that sheared here is a solid dowel pin and not a coiled spiral pin. Be sure to replace it with a solid pin. I would suggest taking that drive hub off and welding up those 2 little notches that the pin has worn into it, which should help prevent another pin from breaking.