105 cub

[rmaclean]

Just looking for a little help would like to know what a guy should give for a 1969 105 Cub Cadet hydrostatic,original engine is long gone but has a different one just needs electric clutch, rear rim's have been replaced do to calcium filled for weight rotted them out,deck was sandblasted and painted and gone over many years ago and still in great shape, has the original bill of sale and manual my brother is finally letting it go and I'm considering it, it was my grandfathers, I remembered lots of hours on the thing as a kid on the farm. Thanks for any input.

 

[dschwandt]

Well, looks like you know the machine, we don't.
Sounds like a money pit to me.
So.....I guess whatever you feel comfortable paying fir it would be my best guess.
If it were mine, and my brother wanted it, I'd tell him come and get it, I'll help you load it.

 

[rmaclean]

Why do you say a money pit when it runs and drives???

 

[dschwandt]

Electric clutch?? for one.
What motor is in it now?
Did not know it runs and drives BTW.
Depends on what you wish to do with it I guess.
Proper restoration or just use for whatever, your call!
Good luck!

 

[mgonitzke]

Impossible to answer that without seeing pictures. Most engine swaps end up being poorly done and detract from the value. As described without being able to see it I would hesitate to pay $50 for it.

 

[rmaclean]

Electric clutch?? for one.
What motor is in it now?
Did not know it runs and drives BTW.
Depends on what you wish to do with it I guess.
Proper restoration or just use for whatever, your call!
Good luck!

10 horse Kohler engine and what a hundred to five hundred for a clutch sounds like a money pit to me??? Or do you say that to everyone that just wants a little information and save these things instead of people destroying them

 

[dschwandt]

Well, with an electric clutch, that means it must at least have an AQS engine in it which means wiring modifications, go figure.
You asked for opinions.
I'm done with this one.

 

[Doug Rusk]

On the plus side, it runs and moves, you know the history obviously, deck from your description has been redone and in good shape.


Minuses, Not sure how much electric clutches run but you need either a good used one or a new one, so cost of a clutch and time to find one must be considered.

Only you know (maybe) how good a job was done on the engine swap. If it was done well, no big deal. If it wasn't there might be some things you would need to spend time or money on to make them right.

Really it is hard to place a value on something site unseen.

My personal opinion, which is worth exactly what you pay for it. Would be a couple hundred bucks at most needing an electric clutch. If it had no family history it would be worth even less to me personally. But I'm not really into that era cub so.....

If you want it I hope you and your brother can come to an agreement and you get it fixed up how you want it. Good luck.

 

[-CӞ]

Just looking for a little help would like to know what a guy should give for a 1969 105 Cub Cadet hydrostatic,original engine is long gone but has a different one just needs electric clutch, rear rim's have been replaced do to calcium filled for weight rotted them out,deck was sandblasted and painted and gone over many years ago and still in great shape, has the original bill of sale and manual my brother is finally letting it go and I'm considering it, it was my grandfathers, I remembered lots of hours on the thing as a kid on the farm. Thanks for any input.

Rick, is it known what your brother paid your grandpa (or your parents or other heir) for the Cub? No reply required here; just food for thought.
Good to keep family machines in the family, perhaps even better to keep such machines ready to work and using ‘em accordingly.
Best wishes!
-C3

 

[JPrattico]

I think the first question we should be asking, before jumping to conclusions, is it actually an electric clutch? Perhaps there is a misconception about the function of the narrow frame manual clutch.

I think we need pictures of the machine before we can give proper input.

 

[R Mass1]

Personally, if it were MY grandfather's CC, I would try, within reason to restore it to a condition to where I could just use it, not to some pristine collector-type condition. I mean that's what they are FOR! Everything I have gets USED and used a lot. I don't worry about the looks or the paint or anything else...just that it is mechanically sound and I can get on it and USE it whenever I want to. That is my opinion. I would pay decent money for it, even if it didn't run, just for parts!

 

[rrschmitt]

A 105 is a gear drive. You mentioned it's a Hydro so possibly is a 106?

 

[lpalma]

A 104 is a gear drive, a 105 is a hydro. Just to clear things up...

 

[mgwin]

A 105 would be worth fixing up in my book. Even if the motor is a replacement. Pictures would definitely be a big help.
I would be curious to see what kind of pto is on it for sure.
If you spent $1,500 getting it right, it would still be a lot cheaper. Buying a piece of mowing mess they sell today wouldn't last near as long as that cub will.
That is my opinion, others may vary, but this one is mine!

 

[HKCooper44]

I've "resurrected" a number of K241 and K301 engines on the cheap, so you might try this:
Get a gasket set for your engine.
Remove the head, then rotate the engine and put the piston at bottom center. Check the cylinder bore for vertical scoring. If you see none, check the bore diameter to see if the cylinder was ever bored oversize. Remove the engine, remove the oil pan, remove the rod cap and push the piston and rod out of the bore. Hone the cylinder bore to get a good 30 degree crosshatch. Install a new piston and ring set. Be SURE to reinstall the rod cap in the correct relationship to the rod (the casting marks on each piece will be evident), and ensure that the oil hole in the rod cap faces the direction of normal crankshaft rotation. Replace the pan. Next, remove the valve stem access cover plate, spacer, reed valve and inner plate. Remove the valves. Replace any that have worn faces, and lap them in (assuming the valve seats aren't burned). Set each valve to its proper cold clearance. Reinstall the valve access plates, etc., being sure that the small oil drain hole in the inner plate is at the bottom. Sand the cylinder head mating surface flat on a flat surface using 220 sand paper. Reinstall the head, noting that the longer head bolts go in the deeper bolt bores. Remove the engine shrouds and clean them, as well as the cylinder fins. Reinstall the engine.
Now is a good time to remove the starter/generator, remove the armature, and clean the generator case with field windings in a bucket of HOT water and Dawn dishsoap, rinse, and blow dry. Sand the armature commutator smooth, undercut the mica, and reinstall with new bearings and brushes.
Fill the oil sump with non-detergent 30W oil and run the engine in!

 

[mgonitzke]

Install a new piston and ring set. Be SURE to reinstall the rod cap in the correct relationship to the rod (the casting marks on each piece will be evident), and ensure that the oil hole in the rod cap faces the direction of normal crankshaft rotation.

Easier way of saying this is to make sure the oil hole in the rod cap goes towards the cam.

Fill the oil sump with non-detergent 30W oil and run the engine in!

No, no, no...do not use non-detergent oil in a K-series. Right in the manual it states to use detergent oil ONLY with API rating SF or better. No non-detergent oil will meet this spec.

 

[HKCooper44]

Easier way of saying this is to make sure the oil hole in the rod cap goes towards the cam.


No, no, no...do not use non-detergent oil in a K-series. Right in the manual it states to use detergent oil ONLY with API rating SF or better. No non-detergent oil will meet this spec.

Sorry, but I disagree. It's best for break-on.

 

[mgonitzke]

You're welcome to disagree all you want, but your opinion is about 90 years outdated.

Any non-detergent 30W you buy will be API SA if it even has an API rating at all, which is not suitable for engines built after 1930. I'll say it again, Kohler requires API SF or better.

I have rebuilt or re-ringed several of these engines and NEVER used non-detergent. On an engine with no filter, I'd be changing the oil the first hour after a rebuild, so no sense going out of your way to pay a lot more for a far inferior oil.