1450 engine securing/mounting bolts fell out

jonrick · Oct 31, 2024

mgonitzke said:
The flat pan is for the 10 hp K241 engines. You can't use those on the 12-16 hp engines. You need the deep sump pan from a Cub Cadet-spec K301, K321, or K341. I'd look for a cast iron pan instead of an aluminum one.

Good to know. Thank you!

mgonitzke · Oct 31, 2024

jonrick said:
Interesting. Are the cooling properties the reason that some of these machines were fitted with aluminum pans? I was wondering why IH would go with such a soft metal for a part that is used to secure the engine.

A bare aluminum pan will transfer heat to the air better than a cast iron pan. This will slightly reduce the oil temp. I doubt the difference is enough to matter.

The aluminum pan was likely a manufacturing cost savings.

jdrong · Nov 1, 2024

I don't know how true this is but, some of the reasons for switching to aluminum were manufacturing costs and the cost of meeting pollution standards for cast iron at the time. So, then came aluminum rear ends, and more.

rkuik · Nov 1, 2024

Sorry, I believe the flat pan (flat bottom that comes up roughly a 1/2") is for the 10 horse that uses the short dipper, the half, half moon pan is used with the 12/14 hp engines w/the long dipper. "I" would not recommend cutting off a dipper.

jonrick · Nov 9, 2024

I realize this has probably been asked a million times, but just to be sure, is there anything beside the ISO mounts and breather kit I should service while I have the engine out that is relatively easy?

dschwandt · Nov 9, 2024

I'd pull the fan shroud and find the timing mark on the flywheel, clean it and highlight w/a bit of contrasting paint so it stands out, then static time the engine.

Pull the engine `tins and clean as needed (head & engine fins)

Check the condition of the rag joints and replace if necessary.

Do a bit of house cleaning as well as needed.
Check for loose, bare or corroded wires too, think PTO feed.
Just a few thinks off the top of my head.