Work begins on 104

[bpientka]

Valve guides measured fine. Parts ordered! None of the parts were ordered through the machine shop so I listened when they made suggestions on the rebuild. Basically It wasn’t them trying to sell me more parts.

They recommended replacing the valve springs and keeper. They never saw or measured either of those parts.

Any opinions on replacement of valve springs and keepers?

 

[mgonitzke]

If I remember correctly, there is a measurement of the free, uncompressed length of the springs in the service manual. if they are shorter than a listed minimum value, they should be replaced.

I have never replaced keepers on a K-series unless they were damaged.

 

[bpientka]

Was busy with work and building an extension onto the wood shed so the 104 was put on the back burning. Engine back from machine shop awhile ago.

Today cleaned the threads on engine block. Worked to true up the head

Head with a little sanding

After sanding.

 

[bpientka]

Everything coming together well. Been following the service manual step by step. Thanks for passing along the link.

Does anyone know the thread type and size on the exhaust? I looks like 1 1/4” npt to me. I might try to find a tap. I forgot to ask the machine shop to clean the threads. While the exhaust elbow threads in I see lots of rust and metal in the threads and the elbow never seems to get tight.

 

[dschwandt]

The 301's are 1" npt, I just checked one I have on the table as I type this.
Check the parts book to see if the elbows are the same as a 241
If so, the threads are the same.

 

[bpientka]

Been a busy day! Lots of parts installed then removed and reinstalled after I put on engine tins. In the end the Kohler is back together. I have a few items to take care of before I can fire it up.

Need a v-belt for the starter/generator and have to figure out wiring.

My plan was to drop the engine into the tractor for the test fire (no driveline). Well that’s not happening. Tractor wiring harness is awful! No ignition switch, lots of cut wires. Tractor will need a new wiring harness and other electrical parts. Likely pull old harness out of the tractor and try to use it for an testing harness. Hopefully will fire it up tomorrow!

 

[tkhoffman]

New harness. I know the feeling. My 782 was way butchered when I got it. It was easier for me to do as you mentioned, pulled it out and made one from scratch. Upgrading wire gauges and making some personal changes along the way. 6ish years later... Issue free.

 

[kharvey]

If you are going to test run out of the tractor I hope you have a good stand or something.
I did that with a 7 horse bolted to some planks and it danced all over the garage floor.

 

[jstich]

Harness??? You only need 3 wires for a test run. Battery ground to engine block, 12 volt to coil positive, 12 volt battery temporarily to starter to make it crank.

 

[bpientka]

Engine start was successful! I dropped it into the tractor frame since I didn’t have a great stand. After my post yesterday I researched the wiring diagrams and as jstich said it only needs a few wires. So a couple jumper cables and a spare battery the motor started up.

While everything was out I double checked the tractor to see where things stand.

Electrical Parts needed so far:
- Wiring harness and wire from coil to point.
- voltage regulator
- ignition key switch

The driveline is in pretty rough shape. Having trouble finding any good parts. So far bad parts include:
— driveshaft
— Main spring
— throw out bearing
— clutch disk
— bushing in clutch drive plate
— clutch teaser spring
— yoke mount has enlarged holes

Might be able to use pressure plates after some machining.

Still need to check the driveshaft coupler on the tractor.

I am starting to question this rebuild!! If this continues there will be more new parts than old!

 

[dschwandt]

In the wearable/consumable dept. that is a good thing.
That way it will be a great usable rig for decades to come.
I would not hesitate at a all to go down that road.

 

[tkhoffman]

Harness??? You only need 3 wires for a test run. Battery ground to engine block, 12 volt to coil positive, 12 volt battery temporarily to starter to make it crank.

he was talking long term harness required for the tractor. Of course, short term you need basics.

 

[mgonitzke]

Rear pressure plate has a bunch of wear where the teaser spring rides, so add that to your list.

I don't think I have ever seen a driveshaft worn that bad. WOW!!!

 

[bpientka]

Thanks Matt!

This is my first gear drive. Wear was so deep I actually thought it was designed that way.

Guess not!

List keeps growing.

 

[bpientka]

Anyone use these pressure plates?

Seems like a set of 2 is the same price as a single cub cadet.

https://www.jensales.com/products/h...er-pressure-plate-heavy-duty-new-8301030.html

 

[gary noblit]

Bernie,now is the time to list all the good parts and remain positive(enthusiasm is a fleeting emotion) and know when you're done you will have a high quality machine that will outlast box store machines many times over.You will have released countless amounts of stress cursing engineers for not allowing room for your hands and become an expert on giving cub advice..

 

[bpientka]

Thanks! I am moving forward on things. I ordered most of the electrical needs (harness, voltage regulator, ignition switch, etc) from ccspecialties yesterday (already shipped!). I found and ordered used ignition switch cup and retainer at IHCCW (already shipped). I spent some time online looking for aftermarket pressure plates. Seems like multiple options for standard sized pressure plates set (both plates) - Jensales ($89), zackkerber ($59.50), midwest supercub ($74.81). Anyone have experience with any of these companies?

 

[dschwandt]

I would think the rear pressure plate could be repaired and both of them resurfaced.
That machine must have seen a lot of time running with the brakes on (clutch depressed) as in front mount implement use such as a shredder, to wear the teaser spring into the rear plate like that.

I would get an OEM clutch disc.
I have bought 2 from MWSC and they both broke out around the holes.

 

[bpientka]

Electrical issues soon to be addressed.

Order arrived today with needed electrical parts. Thanks ccspecialties and ihccw.

Needed clutch/driveline parts are also ordered.

 

[Matt Ellerbee]

I would get an OEM clutch disc.

Who has the best price for OEM? And what is/how do you tell the difference?