• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

The 7 year , 4 month, and ?? day 149 refurbish

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

stanner

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2002
Messages
1,349
displayname
Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
I'm starting this thread to post the progress on the refurbish from heck. Due to the lack of round tuits, ambition, and funds, I've been told to "do you know what or get off the pot". I need to finish for my sake. I miss using the machine.

I finished up a few of the projects arount the house and dug the 149 out of the corner. this has been sitting for at least 2 years in the corner of the garage.

The house, other vehicles, kids, and work had gotten in the way. I'm trying a task based approach with this thing.
For example, this past weekend was to get the PTO back together and installed.

The previous incarnation of this 149 had the original engine fitted with a Warner electric PTO clutch. This setup worked well for 15 years. When I dissasembled the tractor, I decided to use a new K321 that I had for years in it, and use the old engine in the 107 that I bought.
The issue with the new engine is that the shaft is 1-1/8" diameter, and the old clutch would not fit. I took the clutch to a tractor salvage yard in Montezuma, NY and traded it for one that would fit. Now, if anyone knows what brand this is or what it came off of, let me know.
After futzing with is most of saturday, I think I have it on correctly. I had to make some bushings for the outer edge by the pulley to support the bearing, and add a few shims to get the pulley to sit right on the shaft and still turn. I think I got it right.

The locator was made from an eye bolt fastened to a angle iron bracket bolted to the engine. Previously, a legnth of chain was used, but that looked hokey.

Up next, re-installing hydraulic ram, and fixing the slop in the float linkage...

Bushings installed
261539.jpg


Installed
261540.jpg


Locator
261541.jpg


Tractor on Blocks
261542.jpg
 
Before- around 2003 at eagle project clearing brush

261545.jpg
 
Installed the front pushbar last night. When mowing, I can't be bothered getting off the machine to move stuff, so the tractor tends to get used to push stuff out of the way.
clappy.gif
This was sourced at the tractor salvage yard, and attaches with riv-nuts. It'll 'prolly have to come off for snowblowing season...

261588.jpg

261589.jpg

261590.jpg
 
Scott, found some round tuits did ya?
happy.gif
Nice to see progress. It's looking good.
greenthumb.gif
 
Scott: A 149 doesn't use an electric PTO clutch. Please tell us more about what you're up to with this "refurbish." I see the pulley and the starter/generator, so I know you didn't go to an AQS engine.
I'm a bit confused.
1a_scratchhead.gif
 
Originally, it didn't. I got sick of monkey-farting with the mech clutch, plus I has an electric one available. I ran the electrics through a relay keying off of the old PTO safety switch to turn the clutch on and off, and interlocking with the ignition.. I cut the basket off of the pulley, and had to extend the crankshaft with the adapter to support the clutch. The increased pulley diameter worked out well with the thrower, as it was an automatic speed-up upgrade... A length of chain tying the clutch to the frame was used before to keep the clutch from rotating. This setup worked OK for 15 years...
Notic the new engine has holes drilled and tapped in the block for the locator bracket, as the original does not...
261611.jpg


261612.jpg


261613.jpg
 
Jeremiah,
What am I up to?
I wanted to improve, upgrade, and enhance this thing. among the upgrades planned and/or done include:
reinforced steering knuckles
ROPS bracket
Raise seat pan for addition clearance
Aluminum Diamondplate foot rests
new wiring
automotive battery under seat
on-board charger
battery cut off switch
jumper cable plug
front pushbar
quiet muffler mods (yet to be decided on)
joystick thrower chute control
double rag joint conversion/ drive coupler pin elimination
electronic ignition
anything else I can dream up that might be neat to do..
 
Wow, Scott, sounds like a very creative undertaking: I didn't know you had it in you. I understand the reason for most of the changes you list, although one puzzles me,
"Raise seat pan for addition[al] clearance" --I assume the clearance is needed for the automotive battery and charging apparatus.
1a_scratchhead.gif


I kind of like the mechanical PTO, but then, I haven't had to work on one yet. I have an electric clutch on my 782, they also fail and fixing them can be tricky. I'm dealing with differences in crankshaft diameters too. There is a guy on Evil Pay who sells an adapter for Maytag washers which allows a 1-1/8" ID PTO to be installed on a 1" OD crankshaft --basically a properly-sized tube with a slot cut out for a taller key (also supplied). I can send you specific information if you're interested. I purchased one and the quality appears satisfactory; I haven't installed it yet. Like you, I'm still looking for a Round Tuit.
smile.gif


Anyway, I'm really interested in seeing how your project comes out, you seem to have some definite ideas about what you want to accomplish.
thumbsup.gif


(Note: I understand why you posted a separate thread in this section although some Forum purists might object, since you seem to be aiming for "Better'n New" not a Refurbish or Restoration.)

Edit: Thank you for posting a picture clearly showing the muffler's heat baffle. I've taken some heat from Harry Bursell for not having the one proper for my 149; now I know what mine SHOULD look like.
 
Jeremiah,
The seat pan on the SGT's were raised up off of the fram for tire clearance w/ 26" tires, others have spaced the pan up for the same reason, so I decided this may be a good thing to do. I am using 5/8" thick spaces to rais it.

The pan was cut under the seat to widen the bottom of the battery tray to accomodate a group 70 battery. the charger fits right next to it..
261621.jpg

261622.jpg

charger next to battery
261623.jpg
 
Tackled the driveshaft and lift arm last night...

Got a QL driveshaft from the salvage yard, installed with the existing rear ragjoint, and one of the old, front ragjoints that came with the shaft. I need to order a new one from the sponsors, as the old ones are deformed. A few seconds in the microwave, the rubber is pliable, and was able to make it look almost new for fitup purposes. Notice the new fan from one of the sponsors above...
261668.jpg


261669.jpg


Deformed ragjoint
261670.jpg


Lift arm/float- the top hole had to be bushed a few years ago..
261671.jpg


Ground down the head of a 1.2" bolt to be able to get it in from the frame side. It fits pretty good, and holds the arm stationary. I rarely use the float function... I need to insert a shim between the upper and lower arm to take up the rest of the slop- I've used one before here and works well...
261672.jpg
 
Saturday night, the rear PTO assemble went on. Has to wire brush, clean and clearcoat the right angle drive. Opened the gearbox up to check on the lube, which looked pretty good. The ROPS mount I put on had a cross bar to stiffen things up, I guess I neglected to test fit it with the gearbox on, so out came the cut-off wheel. I'll have to add a cross brace toward the outside of the ROPS bracket.
261732.jpg

261733.jpg

The hydraulic ram and hoses get cleaned up, and paint for the ram and control. I seem to be out of rattle can yellow, so off to TSC today. The original tubes for the lift developed stress cracks years ago, and were replaced with custom made hose assemblies. I am debating on whether or not to have new control valve to ram hoses made, as they are original.
261734.jpg
 
Scott--she is looking really good! I find it so interesting that we didn't have any 982 resto threads and finally one was started. Before we knew it, there were three. Now we have two 149 refurbish threads going at once. I think it is cool that you are restifing a 149 at the same time we are, even though you've had this going for awhile. I cant wait to see how yours will look when finished! Keep up the excellent work and the great picture filled posts!
err.gif
 
Finaly back from vacation, worked 2 days to catch up... Painted hydraulics before I left with this new paint they sell at TSC, called Majic, manufctured by Yenkin-Majestic Co. of Columbus, OH. Valspar is not sold there anymore. This paint seems to go on and cover real nice. School Bus yellow is the color. It's relieving getting the first CC white parts mounted in a sea of yellow....

262459.jpg


Gotta pic up some paint remover to remove the overspray on the cooling fins- the hardener really works, as I can't budge the stuff.
262460.jpg


I see I forgot the inner lower 3 point bracket. headed out to install that next...
262461.jpg


262462.jpg


Need to secure the 2 battery cables and wiring harness along the frame channel so that the fender pan can get installed..
 
The IH Cub Cadet is coming along nicely! Great to see such a tractor become like new again, thank you!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top