Rock Shaft confusion , 782

[Rbertalotto]

I'm confused.....To install either a Cat 0 hitch or a sleeve hitch, do I need a "Rock Shaft"

 

[kmcconaughey]

The rockshaft is a standard part of the lift system. It is located about in the middle of the chassis near the forward portion of the tunnel area. On your 782 it is the part that the hydraulic cylinder rotates as it pushes and pulls on the lever that is attached to the rockshaft. I "borrowed" a photo that Matt G. posted of his 782 in another thread to show you.

 

[Rbertalotto]

So on my IH CC 782 I do not need this to facilitate some type of rear lifting system?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Well, that's a different part. I suppose you could call that a rockshaft as well. In the parts manuals, at least the early ones, that is called a lift lever. I've also heard it referred to as the "upper cast piece" of a rear lift. Yes you will need that for a rear lift for use with a sleeve hitch adapter. Or you could install a CAT-0 three point, then you don't need that, but the CAT-0 rear lift is going to cost a lot more ~$500 +/-.

 

[kmcconaughey]

To clarify it a bit, IH called the rear lift a "three point hitch" but it's not the typical three point hitch that many think of. This is a proprietary rear lift that does use three points but for most implements you will also need a "sleeve hitch adapter" Brinly was the main brand, see lower photo.

EDIT: This parts list is what you would need to add the rear lift to your 782:

Here's a Brinly "sleeve hitch adapter":

 

[kmcconaughey]

One more thing. There are three variants of the IH rear lift system, one that only fits onto the Original, one that fits narrow frame Cub Cadets and one that fits wide frame/spread frame Cub Cadets. And before someone corrects me I will also add that the 1x6/7 series, although it's a narrow frame, also requires an additional part to support that cast iron lift lever due to the different fender mounting vs the other narrow frame Cubs.

 

[Rbertalotto]

Thank You! Lots to learn on these GTs....

I'm confident I can fabricate all the parts in that diagram.....but #3 might be a challenge making it strong enough. It looks like that part experiences the most stress in lifting 250 pounds...

 

[RayF]

See my "custom 3-point hitch" thread I posted yesterday- it shows how I made part #3 using square tube with a round tube inside.

 

[elamott]

I have posted 2 pictures to try to explain better what I am asking.
The first picture is on the outside of the frame which the snow blower attaches to and this pin I replaced last fall.
The second picture is the rockshaft on the inside of the frame, and this is the one that I am wondering how to remove and replace the pin that holds everything to the shaft. It is not broken, but if one went the other one might be close and I would sooner do it now than in the winter.
Does anyone have any instructions on how to replace the pin in the inside on the frame?
Any help greatly appreciated
Earl L

 

[dschwandt]

I assume you are talking about the hole that has no pin??
That's the hole for the float lockout pin assly if you want to have down pressure from the hydraulic lift.
Part #9 in the parts lookup.
This also, without the pin, allows what ever you are using be it a thrower, front blade or rear mounted blade to "ride up" over obstructions it may encounter preventing possible damage to the equipment or operator.

 

[elamott]

dschwandt:
I am not talking about the float lock out pin. I talking about the pin that locks the right and left arm assembly to the rock shaft. Both sides are locked in with a pin. How do you get to the pins?
Earl L

 

[proessler]

I've replaced rockshaft roll/spiral pins working from above & below...using <3/8 " roll pin punch.
Looks like pictured tractor is serial # @ or below 716387 ... all use 3/8 x2" pins.

 

[dschwandt]

Are they loose or something?

 

[elamott]

Proess;er:
Thank you for the comment. How did you get the pin inside the frame on the right side (as you are sitting on the seat) out? Is there room from the bottom? I haven't crawled under the and looked yet. Was it a tough job getting the pin out. There can't be much room to work.
Thank you for any comments.
Earl L

 

[proessler]

Worked from bottom & top.....Been years since I did that repair.....I think pins broke and part of the pin(s) is holding. I've got a 1811(one owner) from friend that is acting up since I mounted mower deck last week.

 

[mgwin]

I have replaced one in a 128 before. I had to go in from the bottom to get to it. It is a little difficult to get to, but it is possible. The deck and mule drive needs to be off of the tractor if it has one.
What ever you do, DO NOT put a roll pin back in, it will not last. Use a "coiled spring pin."

I also highly suggest using a roll pin punch to remove the old pin and install the new one. These pin punches work wonders! Believe me, I know. BTDT
You can get a decent set of roll pin punches online for around $15.

 

[wh cc guy]

This is a picture of my 782 rock shaft hookup for lift.