here it is harry... yep new bearing needed on the clutch... grrrrr goin to have to cut this off.. the fun lol come out of the 125 goin into a 127. the orig carb needs the normal cleaning.. this is one from i save tractors works fine but it did have a orig carb on it. i know the hood is a 149 hood no idea why. the owner passed. his kids have no info on its history.
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repower from something else ????
- Thread starter Ken Black
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snicklas
Well-known member
I would say that is probally a service replacement engine. As Harry said, they were black from Kohler. We ahve a 149 that had a complete replacement engine put in in the early 80's and it is black. Came with everything but the S/G and the PTO Clutch. The original Kohler had a piston skirt break off the engine started to have a bit more noise but nothing worrisome. It was our snow removal machine. Wehen we changed the oil there was metal that came out of the pan. Continuing to run it, we over bored the cylinder to the point it would need sleeved. So we bought the service replacement and replaced the damaged one. This engine and tractor are both still in service, and what started yellow and white fever for me.....
Also, once IH started the Quietline series 1x00/1x50 tractors, the engine was black from the factory, and it believe it is that way to this day. My 2020 CC ZR has a black engine, and the lawn and garden tractor lines have a black engine......
Also, once IH started the Quietline series 1x00/1x50 tractors, the engine was black from the factory, and it believe it is that way to this day. My 2020 CC ZR has a black engine, and the lawn and garden tractor lines have a black engine......
i noticed the newer models with black motors..so good to know its probley a factory replacement. bummer they didnt have the orig block.. but iam not sure as the kids didnt go thru the hole place yet..
funny on the yellow and white fever.. it started in a round about way for me .. i grew up on a 1950s gravley 430.so while trying to maybe find the one i did grow up or another one.. hahha not happening.. it was a rare rear tank style.. not many made .... they switched to front..
but come across the 127 in photo on rite with tiller on it.. old cubs basic same paint sceme. fenders only diff white on gravley. yellow on cubs..
i have the hood.. so thats the one that started me in this addiction..
anyways
thanks all for info harry and yourself snicklas...
good to learn something
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hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Ken - you said you needed a new bearing on the PTO clutch and you're going to have to cut it off. I don't get that.
The bearing is eccentric with a separate locking collar. I can't tell from your pics but it sorta looks like you have the locking collar already separated from the bearing. If not, it should just have a set screw holding it in place and most of the time there is a lock nut on the top of it holding it in place. Just loosen the nut, and loosen the set screw, then rotate the locking collar until it's loose and slips off the bearing. Once the collar is released you can just use a 3-jaw puller to pull the bearing off (if it doesn't just slide off).
If you don't have a Service Manual for the 125, you can get one in the Manuals thread on the main page of the Forum.
Hopefully you've got a nice black 12hp service replacement engine when you're done there. It sure does need a good clean up.
The bearing is eccentric with a separate locking collar. I can't tell from your pics but it sorta looks like you have the locking collar already separated from the bearing. If not, it should just have a set screw holding it in place and most of the time there is a lock nut on the top of it holding it in place. Just loosen the nut, and loosen the set screw, then rotate the locking collar until it's loose and slips off the bearing. Once the collar is released you can just use a 3-jaw puller to pull the bearing off (if it doesn't just slide off).
If you don't have a Service Manual for the 125, you can get one in the Manuals thread on the main page of the Forum.
Hopefully you've got a nice black 12hp service replacement engine when you're done there. It sure does need a good clean up.
yep it had the set screw.. took it out.. tried to tap the ring left and then rite. thats looking at the crank in front of you. no movement at all. i dont wanna bang to much on it.. my luck ill knock the crank out of wack just enough .. lol
the bearing itself is so far gone almost get the outter race off with the balls..
i have a lil gas left in the tanks. ill toss a lil heat on it and see if that lets it go.
as for the cleaning.. i know right.... some dont take care of there stuff... iam not purfect but wow some ive seen.. almost cry lol...... 5 mins of cleaning with a hose or air. can save so much with tractors and lawn tractors.
i have to pull the tins off for sure. there was a few eggcorns on the head. snake skins bees nest.. you know the normal stuff lol .
have to find a flywheel screen for it somewhere... i dont think the 321 screen will fit. but ill check.. the 321 i have needs a piston. i think... sounds like it has some slapping goin on..crank sounded good with stick in my ear. so it will sit for a bit before i get to it . as i have another 301 in the refinish of a rebuild stage lol.. WASH THEM BLOCKS AND PARTS WARM SOAP AND WATER FOLKS..... it almost cost me a new rod and piston..
KMC thank you for link to the manual.. will be looking for sure ...
hydroharry
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Ken - I don't know why you're having so much trouble with the locking collar on the bearing. It should come loose pretty easily. It doesn't even ride on the crankshaft (although I know you can't see or tell that from looking at it when it's mounted). Why don't you go get yourself a new bearing with locking collar, and then you can see what it looks like assembled - and you can tell which way it rotates to lock in place.
I just don't recommend using any heat or cutting the bearing off. If you can't seem to get the collar to rotate using a hammer and punch, well then just grap a pair of pump pliers (I guess they are called channel locks) and try twisting back and forth on the collar. It should just come loose.
I just don't recommend using any heat or cutting the bearing off. If you can't seem to get the collar to rotate using a hammer and punch, well then just grap a pair of pump pliers (I guess they are called channel locks) and try twisting back and forth on the collar. It should just come loose.
i got it.... gave the collar a lil more bang and she spun.. bearing was a lil tight on crank.. but its off and in the woods somewhere hhahhaha...
grrrrr had one on my 10hp kohler... iam like yesssssssss... was spinning nice.... then i look at the outer race.. grrrr chunk missing ... sooooo got to order a new one...
had to rebuild the clutch .... the orig one the tri prong spring wow toast.. grind down on the inside from hittin the bearing i guess and no spring left. was dented toward block lol ..
i had another one. but that one one of the set screws was a messed up.. so i took its trileged spring and used it ..
here it is BUT.... the orig set inside of the clutch.. this one set thru slots on the clutch basket. so i grind down the ears a lil and fit it inside ... seems ok ... i see no reason not able to use it as such ..
spring below is what was on it ... but i had a spring that went thru slots on the outer basket ...no idea what model it was on. so as i said i grinded it down fit it and seems good..
tighted the blots fairly tight. and now i just have to wait for the bearing to get here .. bummer have to wait.. but i should be able to get motor in tommorow and up and running and moving at least... had to replace the harnes in this 127. lucky i had one in great shape..
if ur cornfused as much as me let me know hahahha
