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Paint problems

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Dan’l Yorn

Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2022
Messages
5
Location
Milan Indiana
Hey everyone.
I have a problem and hoping you have an answer, I am restoring a 68 124 that was my great uncles.
So I took the tractor apart and took everything down to bare metal. After I prepped everything for paint I primed and painted parts of the tractor with rustoleum spray paint, I let it dry then clear coated. The problem is that the clear coat is bubbling up the paint as if I’m using a paint stripper.
Thank you hope you can help!

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Hey everyone.
I have a problem and hoping you have an answer, I am restoring a 68 124 that was my great uncles.
So I took the tractor apart and took everything down to bare metal. After I prepped everything for paint I primed and painted parts of the tractor with rustoleum spray paint, I let it dry then clear coated. The problem is that the clear coat is bubbling up the paint as if I’m using a paint stripper.
Thank you hope you can help!

Attachments​

  • IMG_5166.jpeg
    IMG_5166.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
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    1.6 MB · Views: 0
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Pretty simple answer, The paint is junk, then the paint under the clear coat wasn't dry enough, even though you might have thought is was. Also putting the clear coat on to thick will do it as well.
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Dan,everybody is right.There are several things that can cause the wrinkle.You're in Ind. so temps have not been great either and even that matters.Cooler temps take a lot longer to cure before next coat .Say the metal is 40 deg. and the paint is 60/70,that's a huge contrast.Never mix brands of paint they don't all match contents including cover coats.I did a cub in Feb.,garage was about 55 deg,I use rattle cans soaked in hot water to decrease viscosity.Every coat was left for 2 days before adding more..My clearcoat says wait 7 days before adding...Point is: no reasons to push time,...I have learned the hard way!!!Might just as well start blasting again..good luck
 
Almost all enamel paints have a recoat window. Usually up to two hours or then you must wait at least 48 hrs. Look at the directions on the spray can for recoat times. Cold weather will have a significant impact on when you can recoat. Sorry you are having problems but at this time the only thing to do is strip and start over. Good luck.
 
I've had this issue many times with numerous types of paint. When I restored my '64 Cadet 100 18 years ago, I purposely used IH yellow and white, and DID NOT use clear coat. The paint has held up just fine by waxing with Meguiar's. You DO NOT need to use clear coat!
 
Not enough info to diagnose the problem. Spray cans or spray gun used? Are all the paint products from the same brand and line? I did a quick search and found that Rust-oleum, sells clear enamel and clear acrylic enamel. There is also the original Rust-oleum and Rust-oleum Automotive, they may not all be compatible.
 
Almost all enamel paints have a recoat window. Usually up to two hours or then you must wait at least 48 hrs. Look at the directions on the spray can for recoat times. Cold weather will have a significant impact on when you can recoat. Sorry you are having problems but at this time the only thing to do is strip and start over. Good luck.
To add to thoshock's post, 50F degrees is the minimum outdoor temp for any exterior paint job. And remember, any paint needs two weeks to properly cure at them 50 degrees. I have a homemade 6ft white oak bench that'll need 5-6 coats of Total Lust varnish along with a teensy blemish on my CC102 - both wait till May 1. Patience is a virtue (think I heard that somewhere).
Cheers, Jack
 
Hi Dan,

Everyone has gone through this process and learned something.

This my experience.

Rustoleum has it place. I have used Rustoleum spray cans for many years and experience its short falls. Rustoleum spray can jobs has a very small respray window, tends to runs if to much paint and it can take up to 30 days for it to harden up.

I have switched to the Rustoleum 1-quart can for less perfect jobs after seeing 55 drum of empty rattle cans and seeing $$$$.
I first brushed on this paint on my lathe with single coat - no need for redcoat - dry to touch 24 hours - harden up in a week.

My first time using HVLP spray gun was HF using POR15 on truck frame. YT has some good tips from paint pros.

In my search of using Rustoleum paint in spray gun for large jobs, found several excellent YT how to do this with excellent results. Basically Rustoleum plus acetone (thinning/faster drying) and using a hardener catalyst from TSC. I think off top my head the ratio is something like 4-3-1. It sprays on well, harder to have runs, dry faster, has more durable finish and it is cheap to do.

Heed warnings using hardener! Use it outside with respirator.

Now for all the work you doing the paint prep work and looking for excellent job, I would have used a better paint may be automotive type paint.

By the way, still use the rattle can for small one off item and touch up.

Bob G.
 
The only things going for Rustoleum are price and ease of availability. The OEM sourced paints are better quality, but three times the cost and somewhat harder to source.

Do it once, do it right.
 
The only things going for Rustoleum are price and ease of availability. The OEM sourced paints are better quality, but three times the cost and somewhat harder to source.

Do it once, do it right.
Back in the day I see 2-3 different Cub yellows. For my CC102 I use Majic Cub Cadet yellow, 8-22950-8 and Majic Diamond Hard off-white, 8-21519. Perfect. Spray leaves the can as a light flow, different from other spray cans. I like it. At my HD, see Rustoleum Custom Spray 5in1 which nozzle has three rates of flow, not tried yet. Cheers, Jack
 
I agree. I bought a quart from one of the sponsors (maybe the most popular yellow) and it did not match - too light. Remember I said Cub used different yellows. My local paint shop made it perfectly match the color in my Majic rattle can.
 
Any farm store rattle can you buy that is "Cub Cadet Yellow" is most likely the orange-yellow used on the cyclops and 2000/3000 series tractors, which is not the correct shade of yellow for the older machines. To get that color, you must get iron guard from Case IH, or have auto paint mixed to the code from the FAQ page.
 

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