Must not be my day.

[dgregg]

After i got around the first problem with my 128 I deceide to try to plow my garden. Havn't had the Brinley hitch on the tractor for a year and a half. Had to find where I stashed it then get the plow down, it's buryed on a flat bed truck. Put it all on and I can't pick up the plow. Move the leaver and no reaction at the back. Worked just fine the last time I used it.
With further checked I find the roll pin is shore off on the rt side where the 3 point lift bar attaches. How in the world do you get in there to drive the broke pieces out and install a new one?
Also what size pin is needed? I assume it should be a spiral pin.
Thanks

 

[kmcconaughey]

David, ugh! I hate it when troubles multiply. Yes it should be a Spirol pin, aka coiled spring pin.. As I was reading your post, when I got to the part: "...then get the plow down..." I thought you were going to go on to write that you dropped it on your foot or something like that.

From the Parts Lookup:

 

[dgregg]

Thanks for the sizes.
No didn't drop the plow but it is gaining weight every year.

 

[hydroharry]

Well David - you've come across what I believe is one of the most difficult repairs on a wide frame tractor: Removing a broken roll (spirol) pin on one of the lift arms.
The easiest way to do it is to strip everything off the frame including axles, fender pan, engine, dash support, engine, everything, and then flip the frame over so you can sit on top of it and start driving out the busted pin. If you're lucky the lift arm will be a little loose on the rod shaft it's pinned to and you'll be able to work it so the pin is aligned as much as possible.

Now, the hardest way to remove this pin - which is probably the method you'll use - is laying on your back on the ground underneath the tractor and trying to move the arm so the pin aligns with that little slot in the frame where you can place your punch in line with the pin, and start hitting it to drive the pin out. About the only thing I can say is "been there, done that". I think I worked about an hour a day for 3 days to get it done.

Whew, it even hurts just to type this, but the moral of the story is IT CAN BE DONE!!!!

 

[snicklas]

Not sure if the manual lift wide frames are much different than the hydro lift wide frames... never had a manual lift one... but, if it’s the pin I think i is... it’s really not that hard.

My assumption (yes that word) is instead of having the hydraulic cylinder moving the rock shaft vie the right lift arm that goes down for the deck lift and up to the cylinder, the manual lift turns the rock shaft and that in turn moves the lift arm. When our pin was bad, the rear lift always worked fine, but the rear lift it connected to the arm the cylinder is moving, so that makes sense. On a manual lift, the lift plate by your right foot on a hydraulic lift, it is replaced with the manual lift handle, correct? If this is the case, yes, lay on your back on the right side of the tractor, under the running board. Have the tunnel cover removed for light and access from the top. Leave the lift handle locked in position (all the way “down” if I remember correctly, been a while since I replaced one of these pins). Take the deck lift arm and move it until the holes line up, because the rock shaft is now “locked” into position, the lift arm should slide on the rock shaft. Once aligned (they should stay aligned as the lift arm isn’t loose on the shaft, use a punch and hammer and drive out what is left of the broken pin (ours normally came out in 3 pieces). Once the old one is out, drive a new spirol pin in from the bottom. Again the 2 pieces should still be in alignment from when you drove the old one out. Just remember to not have anything connected to the lift, lift rod for the blade/blower, or pull the deck and undercarriage, or remove the lift pin from the 3 point in the rear, as you want the lift arm to be able to move. If you have an attachment connected, you won’t be able to move the lift arm. On a hydraulic lift, you move the left lift arm to move the rock shaft to align the holes, since the cylinder will be holding the right lift arm “locked”. (if you have the float lockout pin in, of not, the float will allow the rock shaft to move some, but we always had the lockout pin in (personal preference). So the difference is, manual, you are moving the arm to align with the shaft, and the hydro, you are moving the shaft to align the arm.

In all honesty, it probably took me longer to type this post than it would to have changed the pin. But I have done it several times. Last time was on a new to me 1650 that someone “fixed” a broken spiral pin with a bolt. Just a bolt, no nut.... I was lucky that no damage was done... I think they used a cheep bolt and it is what took the wear......

 

[hydroharry]

Well Scott - we'll see which of us is more correct for David's situation. I think the difficult parts are = getting the broken pin aligned with the broken part in the shaft, and then driving the pin out while you're laying on your back underneath the tractor and you have no room to swing your hammer to hit the punch.

 

[snicklas]

We’ll see. I replaced that pin at least once a year for probably 20 years...

We have only had wide frames / Quietlines.. the 2 narrow we had, we didn’t have long. But I have NEVER had the fenders or the dash tower off of a wide frame to do anything to it. I’ve had the hood/grille casting off to make it easier to pull the engine... and the tunnel cover. Even when we split the tractor to replace the cork gasket... never pulled anything but the tunnel cover and the transaxle itself.....

 

[dschwandt]

Move the lever all the way to the down position.
Then pull the lift arms to the down position.
This will get you pretty darn close to alignment of the pin with the rockshaft.
You might try fishing a piece of thin wire (thing welding wire) through the hole in the spirol pin to assist in centering it.
Be sure and get the correct spirol pin to replace it with as well
5/16" dia.

 

[dgregg]

Thanks guys for the responces.
Started out by jacking up the tractor and putting a 6x6 under the rt rear tire and a 4x4 under thr rt front. Blocked the others so it wouldn't roll.
Well first thing is there is no slot in the frame to allow acess on the rt side, only the left. I started out by taking the cover off the tunnel, then backed off the spring assist. removed the 3 point lift block from the lift arm, then removed the bolt holding the lift arm to the lift pin so I could slide the lift bar back out of the way. I then removed the rachet stop from the bottom of the rt frame thinking I could get a punch thru the bolt hole to drive the pin out. F9und out the bolts are put in before the crosshaft as they can't be removed, so much for that idea. Took a hammer and drove the one lft arm till it aligned with the other arm. Without a slot there is no way to get a straight shot with a punch. With the arm forward had enough angle to get a punch in and drive it up enough to get the top 1/3 out. Then went to the top and drove the rest out the bottom.
Took a new pin and ground a slight chamfer on one end and got it sarted back in from the top. problem is you don't have a good straight shot from the top. But after a lot a trys with different punch's and bigger hammers I got it in.
If I do it again I will drill a hole in the frame so you have a sraig u t shot to drive the pin out and in.
And my back hurts.
Thanks again.

 

[hydroharry]

David - hahaha, liked your closing comment.
Scott made it sound easy but then he did say he did it once a year for about 20 years.
I only did it a couple times and that was twice to many, but I will say it's always easier the next time.