My 1650 needs a belt for the PTO to the mower deck. I don't have the part number. The PO had a 6879 belt on but I doesn't seem right. Lots of confusing info tracking one down. The deck is a 44" with a tag number 441U1112. I have manuals for set up and operation of the tractor and the mower, but no belt info.
-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Mule drive belt.
- Thread starter Greg Riutzel
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
glippert
Well-known member
Parts Lookup:
CC Specialties (sponsor button at the top of this page) has them.
CC Specialties (sponsor button at the top of this page) has them.
It is a 5". I've also seen p/n 490489-R2 listed for the Quiet Line with a 44" deck on a couple of sites. The pulleys seem large enough that a larger belt such as an A or AX (1/2"width) or a 1500 series (15/32" width) automotive could be used. 16 Hp at 3600 Rpm and 5" pulleys seem a bit much for a 3/8 or 6800 belt. The reason I ask is the green Gates I'm using is leaving a lot of "dust" around the PTO. It is 3/8" X 79"
Use what ya want, it's your tractor. All we can do is tell/show what is correct. the 490489 is 2" to short and the JUNK gates or any other off brand belt does not do well with the belt configuration of the Cub Cadets.
That's why I'm asking. Industrial/automotive belts were part of my day job. The AG and specialty ones are always something new to learn. Ordering the "correct" one today. Will find out soon enough if the higher cost is worth it.
I've got close to 20 hours on the mower and new belt. It's working great. OEM is the way. Oh, and don't doubt the Digger 
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Ooh, the ole question on the correct belt for a Quiet Line tractor. I missed this original post.
Greg - glad to see you got the correct belt. The IHCC Quiet Line (Model 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450, 1650) is something of a unique series for IH. Using the correct belt PTO to Deck belt is important because of the engine mounting using ISO-bars with flexible rubber ISO-mounts AND with the rubber snubbers on the front of the ISO-bars that keep the engine from being pulled down to far by belt tension on the PTO.
If you haven't already checked or replaced your rubber ISO-mounts on your 1650 you probably should. I'd suggest releasing the tension on your PTO belt, raise the hood, and standing on the left side of the tractor, give a grab to the right side of the engine and pull it towards you. If the engine moves all the way such that it hits the left side panel then your rubber ISO-mounts are shot. In my experience the 14hp (1450) and 16hp (1650) engines were more prone to wear out the ISO mounts sooner than the lower hp engines. If the mounts are shot the engine will also sit a little lower to the point you may not really be able to adjust the correct PTO to deck belt. As if it's to long and you need a shorter one.
Just wanted to let you know in case you're adjusting the tensioner nearly to the end of the adjustment.
Greg - glad to see you got the correct belt. The IHCC Quiet Line (Model 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450, 1650) is something of a unique series for IH. Using the correct belt PTO to Deck belt is important because of the engine mounting using ISO-bars with flexible rubber ISO-mounts AND with the rubber snubbers on the front of the ISO-bars that keep the engine from being pulled down to far by belt tension on the PTO.
If you haven't already checked or replaced your rubber ISO-mounts on your 1650 you probably should. I'd suggest releasing the tension on your PTO belt, raise the hood, and standing on the left side of the tractor, give a grab to the right side of the engine and pull it towards you. If the engine moves all the way such that it hits the left side panel then your rubber ISO-mounts are shot. In my experience the 14hp (1450) and 16hp (1650) engines were more prone to wear out the ISO mounts sooner than the lower hp engines. If the mounts are shot the engine will also sit a little lower to the point you may not really be able to adjust the correct PTO to deck belt. As if it's to long and you need a shorter one.
Just wanted to let you know in case you're adjusting the tensioner nearly to the end of the adjustment.
Thanks Harry. I did replace the ISO mounts with all new bolts and rubbers. I figured with the work into rebuilding the engine, for a few extra bucks make it right the whole way. The belt is the correct length with room to adjust. This brings up a point I may post in a new thread about ID'ing mule drives; unless there's a FAQ. My mule drive is missing the L shaped idler ratchet, which I assume also functions as a tension indicator. Right now I'm watching the belt action for excessive whip or any slipping. There's only a short squeak when engaging the PTO. I made a tool to position the idler for belt install and removal.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Greg - yup, you're right. The L-shaped idler ratchet has a couple little v-grooves that indicate when the belt is tensioned correctly and when it needs adjustment. It would be nice if there was an FAQ for mule drives. Not long ago a guy was looking for the correct mule drive to go with his 1450 and it got real confusing describing and trying to explain differences.
Here's a pic of the idler ratchet you need. I stole it from Charlie's (Diggers) website. You can just barely see those 2 little v-groove notches along the top length just about in the middle. If you look at your Owners/Operator Manual it should have a pic that shows the decal that's supposed to be on the front of the mule drive and shows the adjustment.
Here's a pic of the idler ratchet you need. I stole it from Charlie's (Diggers) website. You can just barely see those 2 little v-groove notches along the top length just about in the middle. If you look at your Owners/Operator Manual it should have a pic that shows the decal that's supposed to be on the front of the mule drive and shows the adjustment.
