Leak between pump/ transmission

[Seven]

I think it might be the cork gasket that I just put in it I never used any sort of gasket sealer on it and wondering if I should have?

 

[RayF]

Permatex #3B non-hardening sealer works best for cork. I use it alot...

you can also use Permatex #2 in the smaller tubes

 

[Seven]

Yep I didn't think you were supposed to you it on a cork gasket. Hopefully I can remove drive shaft and get it apart without removing the engine? I made a split driveshaft .

 

[dfrisk]

Cork is actually decayed tree bark, and WHY on EARTH, somebody thought that would make a usable gasket material amazes me. If you research the archives here you will find thousands of posts to read about Viton, Nytril, Neopreme, and probably other much more reliable products to make a durable leak-free long lasting gasket from than cork.
And as for gasket sealants, I've had " So-So to Poor" luck with Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket. Use HYLOMAR UNIVERSAL BLUE gasket sealant. If it's good enough for NASA, Rolls-Royce, NASCAR, and ALL the Formula 1 race teams it will keep your new home-made Nitrile, Viton, Neopreme gasket secure and leak free.
Back in the 1940's, '50's, and '60's the valve cover, oil pan, and intake to valley cover gaskets ALL made from cork. ALL leaked. Now days they all are designed to use formed O-ring style seals, or in the case of older engines, thin narrow stamped steel outlines of the sealing areas are encapsulated with an elastomer, yes, Nitril, Viton, Neopreme, and become an ever-lasting seal.
I thought the last topic about those seals Gary Ide posted about the OEM gasket was a composite, cork impregnated with an elastomer and pressure sensitive adhesive applied. That should be a reasonably durable gasket.

 

[mgonitzke]

I have used a lot of Permatex gasket sealer and have not had any issues.

 

[dschwandt]

The new gaskets already have "sticky" on one side.

 

[podenbach]

If the cork is NOS you may need to soak it in soapy water to put some life back into it. I cheated on my gpw valve cover by using rtv, but only a thin barely visible layer on one side only. I let it almost completely dry before installing the gasket. This was only to stop it from squirting out when tightening it. I’ve also used spray 3m glue as well, just to keep it from moving around. The oil pan and timing cover had thru bolts so I didn’t use anything and it doesn’t leak. Newer cork gaskets are more of a blend of materials and shouldn’t be as problematic. The transmission input shaft had this cork donut around it to stop migrating oil, they always split if the shaft has any wobble so I packed it full of oil soaked felt gasket material and no issues yet. But that’s a vehicle, a tractor on the other hand gets topped off when needed unless it pukes out all the oil in a few hours of running!

 

[rfunk]

Cork is NOT decayed tree bark. Rather decay resistant, as a matter of fact. In the right circumstances, it can seal very well. Every open a vintage champagne bottle? Cork stopper, made of one-piece or large slices of cork, NOT ground cork granules. Holds pressure, if kept wet (neck down storage) almost forever. Cork was also used on the soles of sailors' boots for some time, as it resists combustion quite well. Running across a metal deck that might have a fire beneath, would melt rubber, burn leather and/or let the heat through faster than cork. It also protects the tree from bushfires!
BUT.
I agree, not the best option out there anymore, for many applications. Purpose-designed materials these days do a better job most of the time. Just have some appreciation for what was done with limited materials in the past. Your (our) Cubs are a great example.